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BMRBOI

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Posts posted by BMRBOI


  1. I got mine from Ray, rotors and brake lines from turner motosport in the us and used genuine bmw pads. I'm not sure on the brake bias on the e46 you will have to research. I used all e46 gear. My build here http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/36519-e36-freshen-up/page-3

    Going to try get some 330 front calipers and discs. Will buy discs new. Anyone have any 330 calipers? Or know anyone who does? Who should I try?

    I will use 325 rears as this is easier than swapping arms etc..

    If 330 is to hard or expensive I will go with the 25 option still miles better than the current setup..

    Can't thank you guys enough for the knowledge you share. Thanks


  2. I done one on my m50 a while ago. Head gasket kit was 300odd then head studs 100 odd. Skimmed and pressure tested was at mates rate at 150 then torx sockets and custom cam locking tool. Then you need to find out why it happened, so new water pump, thermostat and radiator flush maybe another 200, oil, coolant, filters etc another 100-200. And it might be cheaper to buy from pelican parts.

    Now that's providing you are confident and know how to do this. Workshop manual is a huge benefit for torquing bolts etc.

    In my opinion, if it's done hi Kms on the engine it might be a better option just to replace the engine. Wouldn't be to much difference in price, providing the new engine is in good condition.


  3. Selling to make room for new engine, offering it up to bimmersport guys first before tardme.

    M50b25tu vanos engine with 22x,xxx km on it. Doesn't seem to use water or oil (have only done 1000kms if that, since I have owned it/the car).

    For $700

    You will get:

    · E36 Engine

    · Starter motor

    · Alternator

    · Power steering pump, lines and e36 steering rack

    · Viscous fan and coupler

    · Intake with all components (apart from airbox)

    · Engine loom with 413 ecu-non EWS (auto)

    · Exhaust manifold

    · Auto transmission (may have loom, computer and shifter)

    · Drive shaft

    · Used Manual E36 flywheel, pressure plate, two clutch plates and manual starter motor.

    Have a few other parts for sale too like radiator and aftermarket exhaust.

    Would like the buyer to pick up (hence the cheap price), I will pull it out for you.

    All located in Rotorua.

    Niroy

    post-1183-0-38333200-1386143753.jpg

    post-1183-0-93631600-1386143809.jpg


  4. Hey Guys,

    My partner and I are looking at buying a Mk5 Golf, just wondering if there is anything in particular I need to look out for? I have been told the auto transmissions can be problematic if they have not been serviced regularly (will most likely be buying an auto). Any real concerns in buying a Jap import vs NZ new? I know service history is a must; I worry about these low k imported ones with no real service history. Should we be sticking to the 2.0 engine (looking at a petrol one)?

    Thanks for the advice,

    Niroy


  5. It’s the shipping weight which will kill you. If you go though the purchasing processes on pelican parts or Turner motorsport they will give you a cost of shipping before you have to pay.

    There are 3rd party shipping companies which will ship to NZ but it’s still not that cheap. I priced up shipping parts through Kiwi shipping (I think its called) and it was actually cheaper just buying from pelican parts.

    Unless you have friends which can bring them in through contacts...


  6. BAD!

    Ok I went with the plug and play option, turns out there is only 1 of the many different types of dme's available, it was slightly different pin out but with moving a few around it works fine.

    I purchased some siemens 875cc 80lbinjectors as the ones I had were to small

    Had a run up on the dyno today and putting down a very nice 419bhp on 95 octane then the fuel pump couldn't keep up, so taking out the 3.2l m3 evo pump and installing a bosch 044 pump and to alow for a bit of movement going to run it on 98 octane and see how we go.


  7. Selling the engine out of the coupe.

    M50b25tu vanos engine with 22x,xxx km on it. Have done approx 1000km since purchasing car, doesn't seem to be using water or oil. Will have starter, alternator, power steering pump, viscous fan, intake with all components (apart from airbox) and exhaust manifold. Loom with 413 ecu-non EWS (auto) and will include new water pump and polished thermostat housing- $750

    Auto transmission and Drive shaft $150

    Full exhaust system with aftermarket muffler $100

    Engine still in car and can be taken for a drive. Have other parts for sell out of both coupe (1993 e36 325i) and sedan (1992 e36 325i). Car is located in Rotorua will ship engine.

    Niroy


  8. Will be removing one from my 1993 e36 coupe once I find a buyer. Will include loom, ecu etc. PM me

    Ok

    So looking at a E34/E36 M50TUB25 MOTOR on Trademe would this be a good start for turbo build up (forged pistons rods etc)

    Also is there a good strong BMW gearbox or am I better of looking at other options

    same with the diff is the large case a bolt into the std rear subframe or better to buy a complete m3 rear end if I can find one?

    Looking for at least 600rwhp now

    Thanks for all you help


  9. Yep I agree with the manual, in my opinion the non-vanos is more reliable due to not having vanos. The front end will be coming out regardless to fit the sedan gear in so pulling the engine out wont be much of an issue in terms of time.

    go for what is most reliable. going manual will make the biggest difference to performance.


  10. Care to elaborate? It would be just a bare m52b28 (new general gaskets fitted) with all obd1 electronics and m50 intake manifold with m52 exhaust manifold matted with 325i non cat exhaust. The gearbox is the factory m50 one with lightweight flywheel and carbon Kevlar clutch.

    M52 B28 and do it properly far superior engine to the M50B25

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