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BMRBOI

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Posts posted by BMRBOI


  1. Im running one of darrens 2stage carbon Kevlar clutch kits for an e30 with the early type m20 6.1kg flywheel, e30 starter and e21 clutch release bearing.

    Running this on my e36 325i without any issues, starter motor is an easy thing to do if the engine is out haha. Also keep in mind you should be replacing your flywheel bolts and clutch plate bolts. I think this added $50 odd bucks to the total cost.

    If you can get that F1 set up into the country for $800-900 I would go that way. Just watch out for customs fees!


  2. Haha, yeah I never thought this will be an electrical project to start with but hey!

    I wonder if I should just wait and pull the heater box etc out of the sedan and put it into the coupe. I know the dash between the coupe and sedans are not interchangeable.


  3. Hey guys,

    Well after months of looking for a donor shell for my e36 gear, I finally found one. This is her. A 1993 325i coupe in Diamantschwarz metallic. She has a full motorsports exterior, sports seats, sunroof and is also registered and has a WOF. Paint is in very good condition, a few stone chips and a couple of dings. Mechanically she drives fine, a bit worn out in the bushes/suspension department but drove fine from Auckland to Rotorua.

    Engine runs very cool, around the 60 degree mark, however i'm thinking that the thermostat has been removed.

    It has various facelift parts fitted, noticeable front grills, dash, climate control and steering wheel.

    This is a project, so what's a project without a few issues to sort out. So…

    She throws engine check lights for washer fluid and coolant level even though she has plenty. Also I noticed every now and then all dash lights appear and the fuel gauge drops to empty and stays that way until I turn it right off and start again.

    The climate control/heater unit wasn't working so I decided to investigate... I was rather surprised with my findings.

    First of all it was just the display panel sitting in there not connected to anything. The heater box had been removed and pipes and some loom hacked. I started pulling more of the dash apart and found the window switches somewhat hardwired with rangi plugs and speaker wire running from the door to the switches (you can see this in the picture running across the brake pedal).

    Also there are various cut wires (unsure what they connect to). I assume the body control module has been removed? Windows work fine with/without keys, the sunroof only works with the ignition turned on.

    There is no passenger’s side air bag, but the drivers side one is there and connected unsure if it works though.

    Back to the heater issue, I noticed the heater valve has been removed but the loom plug is still there. Two spare plugs sitting near the glove box (think this is for the heater box shown in picture) and four wires up at the top of the heater unit not sure if they spilt up the heater box.

    Looks like I will be replacing the facelift dash with an original type, replace heater box and place analogue controls back in place. Will the sedan heater box and controls fit this?

    ...and so it begins. I am pretty happy with the purchase. I hope that when I look under the car properly, I will not find any surprises.

    For those who didn't catch the e36 sedan project, which will be the parts donor for this one this is the link e36 track

    Niroy

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  4. Hi guys im after a few parts for my new bmw. It’s a 1993 325i coupe.

    Jack covers x4 for m-sport side skirts in Diamantschwarz metallic.

    Dash latch for push type dash, the piece of loop metal which connects to the dash cover.

    Require a set of upper and lower radiator hoses and aluminium thermostat housing.

    Drivers seatbelt to suit coupe.

    Inner plastic guard for drivers side fender.

    Let me know what you have ill post some pictures when I get the chance,

    Thanks Niroy


  5. E36 M50/M52 turbo top mount manifold, Turbo Specialties fuel injector controller and injector block, M3 fuel pump and intercooler. The injector controller and fuel pump was from a turbo M3 (the guys on here I believe). Doesn’t come with the oil cooler or oil lines (for extra). $500

    SPC Camber kit for e36 has castor and camber adjustment (Hi-spec gear). One bolt thread is a little sloppy and has had strut tower bolts cut down. $150 sold

    KYB short shocks done less than 500km. Comes with super low springs, had a bit of rear guard rub with 18x8.5 and minimal camber. Shocks cost me $200 alone. Want $300.

    Ruff sub frame bushes and pins. $50

    E36 325i exhaust/rps muffler, too loud for WOF without silencer. Can cut muffler off and mount euro tip etc to it. Box of beer? sold

    7 igniton coils, unsure of conditions. Offers

    18 button obc and cycle stork, cruise control stork and window wiper stork. All untested $100

    E46 330i front rotors in good condition with pad wear sensor (believe they are genuine no lip, one has a chip)

    E36 front 325i rotors and calipers with 328i rear rotors and calipers all in good condition. $200.

    E36 325i rear brakes and rotors. $50

    Goodridge braided lines its only a 4 line kit cost me $160 still have receipt for warranty. $50 Sold

    Genuine E36/46 Front brake pads. Unused $80

    E36 medium case diff. 3.15 ratio from a NZ BMW $100 Sold

    E36 Flywheel, clutch/pressure plate and starter motor. Comes with two clutch plates. $80

    E30 throughout bearing, pilot bearing and 325i oil filter. Unused $40

    E36 springs, from a 325i sedan M-sport optioned. Offers

    Am open to offers. Will swap for fog lights and mounting brackets and window switches.

    Thanks Niroy

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  6. I really want to try and find a coupe there Brent. No rolling gear I take it? Air bag type? I just missed out on a tidy 320i black coupe reg and wof for 1800 the other day. I know they are out there haha

    have a black sedan 325i 95.

    reg lapsed , not dereged by insurance company , so will ony need to revin , no engineer reports needed etc.

    tidy shell still has doors on it , but no bolt on frontal parts or running gear or seats etc.

    but i do have most of the frontal stuff if needed.

    shell only with doors and boot lid , windscreens etc $750

    or less if you dont want the other bolt on parts


  7. Hey James, just noticed the post. I thought I've seen it parked up/ driving in rotorua over the last few months. Shame about it been stolen, any news on this?

    quote name='Thorburn' date='Nov 17 2012, 03:04 PM' post='469395']

    Has just been stolen in Rotorua.

    No doubt it'll be in a ditch by now as it was tail happy enough in the dry

    Will be keeping an eye on trademe for the parts


  8. Hi guys im still on the look out for one of these:

    In the market for a E36 Coupe/ rolling shell. Ideally after a 1992 325i NZ new one.

    Failing that, must be a 6cyl version preferably without passenger’s airbag and EWS.

    It will be used as a donor car for my E36 so the body and interior must be tidy, ie no rust/panel damage (unless it’s on removal panels).

    No I don’t want your lowered m-sport rep for 5-6k, willing to pay between 1500-2500. Might be persuaded in another sedan if I can’t find anything.

    Must be registered or at least on hold

    Can contact me on 0211678925

    Cheers Niroy


  9. Is it plug and play Brent? Just swap loom, ecu and engine?

    Only reason i want to use the non-vanos is ive replaced all gaskets etc plus the non-vanos ecu i have is from a manual car not an auto.

    Another thought was to wreak the car, reckon itl be worth much parting it out? Kind of defeats the purpose of the last 12 months.

    It would be good if you can keep an eye open on the shell (even rolling shell would be better), it needs to have good paint/ no rust and goodish interior. Thanks

    yes you can swap the non vanos into a vanos car .

    most early vanos 325i dont have ews anyway.

    worst case is you bypass the starter wires that go though the ews box

    might be able to help with coupe or sedan shell , or a subframe etc etc

    thanks brent


  10. Morning guys,

    Have a bit of a dilemma; my e36 shell is not looking to good (1992 325i 4dr)

    Ive had issues with the rear subframe for some time now, have done extensive work on repairing and reinforcing it as it tore subframe mounts out a few years back.

    Ive been getting knocking at the rear end still and although the subframe mounts are solid the whole subframe floor seems to be causing the knocking (thought it was the subframe bushes).

    I am now looking at options:

    I have always been after a coupe, was thinking of finding a 1992 325i coupe and transferring everything onto it. They don’t seem that easy to come by at a good price.

    If I got hold of a 1993+ 325i coupe (cheaper) I assume everything will transfer over?

    How about the non-vanos engine? Can I transfer the engine, loom and ecu over into a vanos car? Mine never had EWS also, will this be an issue? Or should i use the vanos engine?

    Any other options? Build attached below

    325i.


  11. Yep bolts together without mods. For my car I had no oxygen sensors so I had to use bungs in the m52 manifold ( just some bolts with crush washers). I did however die grind around the ports and used a wire brush to clean them up, like I said no noticeable performance just a bit of noise. I think I used the m52 gaskets but both should work I'm pretty sure.

    Sweet, thats what I wanted to know, I just want a bit more noise, and they can be picked up cheap as chips. So just a straight bolt on job? Which exhaust manifold gaskets did you use? I assume the m52 ones


  12. On mine, i run the 325i exhaust (factory without cats) system mated M52 exhaust manifolds. Ive been told it sounds louder then the factory 325i system.

    No noticeable change in performance though.

    Hi,

    Would M52 328 exhaust manifolds bolt straight onto the rest of a M50 325 exhaust system? Or am I better to use the whole 328 exhaust, does it flow any better?

    Cheers

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