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BMRBOI

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Posts posted by BMRBOI

  2. Posted · Edited by BMRBOI · Report reply

    Hi guys,

    Just seeking opinions on what engine to use in my E36 coupe e36 coupe, currently it has the M50b25tu (413) with auto box 220xxx kms in it.

    I was going to replace it with my M50b25 non-vanos including (402) loom, ecu and manual conversion (engine) I know the concept sounds silly but it has lower kms 170xxx and I freshened up gaskets approx 4-5000kms.

    Now the issue is I have the freedom to mix and match, I could run the M50b25tu with the manual gear (I would then have to freshen up gaskets on this engine $$$) but would have the issues of rev hanging from the auto ecu.

    Or the other option is to find a bare M52b28tu and run it on the OBD1 413 ecu and loom with the manual conversion (still will have the rev hanging issue)

    Performance wise, for the hassle and cost would the extra .3L be worth the gain in power? Or should I stick the non vanos gear in there and enjoy the heart of the old car.

    Thanks Niroy

  6. Posted · Report reply

    I noticed on tardme that someone was selling some NZ made headers for the M50 for around $700 IIRC.

    Thanks man, was wondering if it was worth the effort. Wonder if there are any plans on the net to dimension up a seat of DIY tuned headers for the M50B25. Would love to copy the S50 ones if I could! Not worried about how long it takes to build, but more torques would be nice :)

  12. Posted · Report reply

    What do you need to use for temp sensors on the M52 to OB1? Ive read somewhere you need to splice wires as the m52 has one four wire temp sensor and the m50 has two? Also the timing cover has different coolant connections? The sumps are different in an m50 and m52 also (the dipstick area). Could be wrong...

  13. Posted · Edited by BMRBOI · Report reply

    I think CRC had a spray can underbody sealer, but not all Repco’s stocked it. I ended up using the CRC stuff in the pot, spread it on with a putty knife and you can get it pretty smooth and sets hard also.

  16. Posted · Edited by BMRBOI · Report reply

    Visit My Website

    This is the one I was talking about^^. I would advice not to drive the car around anywhere as it will cause further stress on the other mounting points. I don't have a write up for what I did, but I got hold of the m3 reinforcement plates from turner motorsports. I cut a small square between the two plastic bungs inside car under rear seat, this gave wme access to the torn mount from the top. I repaired the steel which the subframe threaded mount attaches to (check around area thoroughly for any other splitting and cracking. I cleaned the mounting tab up and welded it to the reinforcement plate. I ended up drilling extra holes in the plate for more spot welds, then welded it into position. Then it was a matter of welding it from the top of the mount ( the square you cut out) and then welding a plate back around the square.

    Attached is the passengers side rear mount, similar principal or do it the way James has done by drilling out the spot welds and replacing that hole subframe anchor section (which would be the most reassuring way).

    yeah my e36. was your repair difficult i plan to reinforce it as well id like to get "track ready" haha so its a must id rather not have to re shell

    could you link me repair write up that would be great cheers

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  17. Posted · Report reply

    Oh boy, are we talking about your e36? Normally the passengers rear is the first to go. I tore mine and although repaired it has plagued me ever since. Look under projects for thorburn(James) he has done a pretty comprehensive repair on an e36 325i.

    hey guy i was changing my open diff out to an lsd the other day and i noticed quite a serious crack in the right front mount i had noticed the car sitting slightly lower on one side i assumed it was sagging springs. ive looked around and it seems to be a common problem ive looked into it and found a subframe reinforcement kit BUT from the looks of their repair video there mounts only have cracks and are easy to weld up i have SOOO much metal missing around the mount that im worried it might be beyond repair.

    SO my question is has anyone done this befor was it a Major to fix. ive thought i could try fit a plate inside and weld it from the inside repair and then install reinforcement kit.

    please help me sorry i cant upload pics forum wont let me

  18. Posted · Report reply

    Hi guys,

    Im after door wiring loom L&R for a 1993 E36 Coupe and also window switch wiring.

    I will find out details when I get the chance. I think the car was a non heated mirror model (four wire) with single tweeter not sure if it had the four or five wire window switch. Pictures Heree36 door

    Let me know if you have anything

    Niroy

  19. Posted · Report reply

    Arh this just gets messier as I look into it. Who would butcher a wiring loom like this! Just makes no sense.

    Reg motor is a 2 plug type (just two wires running to the window motor atm)

    Windows don’t drop down when you open the doors (assuming this has been ripped out)

    Has four wire mirrors (non heated?)

    Has no speaker wires set up but I would think it would be the one tweeter set.

    SO. In order to get the doors back to how they should be, should I count the wires and record the colours of the original door loom and try to source a new section to replace into the doors?

    Do I need to change out the window regulators to the one plug type? I still cant find out a way to tell if the original door switch was a 5 wire type.

    A few extra wires cut around in the door…

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  20. Posted · Report reply

    Theres a bmw wreaker in Tauranga isn’t there? If you have no luck the missis will be over there in the weekend I can give her a spare one I have to take with.

    ^Ha, hi Ben!

    I tried to change the oil in it today, but some mong tightened the drain plug up too tight last time the put it in so it came out in two bits. Repco doesn't have the right part unfortunately.

    Where's my best bet to find a replacement one?

  23. Posted · Report reply

    Hi guys, question

    Were there any differences in wiring for window switches in the e36? I tried looking this up on an ETK for my build sheet, no luck.

    Basically I have 4 wire window switches which have been rangi wired in. Im not sure if all e36's were fitted with the 5 wire type for the drivers window (push down harder and the window goes all the way down automatically).

    Also were there any differences in door wiring in the e36 (apart from speaker wiring)

    Car is a 93 325i coupe (WBABF42010JA89017), I believe it’s been fitted with 1995/6 328i doors

    Any help will be appreciated

  25. Posted · Report reply

    Yeah what Michael said.

    I toyed with the idea of using some 4pots off 5/7 series at one stage. Still need custom work to mount them, might as well try mount Nissan or Mazda four pots with the same effort (cheaper in the long run??).

    I ended up with e46 330i fronts and e46 328i rears. Build hereBuild

    Also there is a guy selling mounts to mount a series 5 rx7 caliper to e36 strut, this is on Trademe.

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