hotwire

Hi Paul, Can do a non air heater box assy - $30 if you wish. 027 6146607 Cheers Grant

Hi, As long as the 525i is an M20 engine then it is the same as the 320 / 325. The 525i could also be an M30 engine in which case it is different - could probably be made to fit but hardly worth the effort. Cheers Grant

Hi, Can't imagine it being cooling system related - did you disturb any wiring (earths etc) when servicing the cooling system? Otherwise I would suspect it being coincidental.

Depends how bad your ones are - shocks are past their best at 40000km's on NZ roads. Your cars original spec shocks when new would certainly out perform Monroe, - leave the Monroe's for the aussie S##t

Hi, If it is a factory fitted BMW unit it won't have a star rating. To my knowledge ( being an authorised NZSA alarm installer) only aftermarket units that are submitted for apraisal are awarded with a star rating -depending on the level of criteria they meet - 1 being least & 5 the highest. I am not aware of any factory fit units having a rating - not saying that they wouldn't meet the criteria of various ratings though For a list of alarms & their ratings, see the NZ security association (NZSA) website Cheers Grant

Don't go for Monroe, from my experience, Beemers as with some other euro cars dont like them, as stated earlier Koni excellent option but also can be costly, I have fitted KYB's to E36's & found them good - good pricing too. George Stocks can do those too. Cheers Grant

Thanks again Cheers Grant

Thanks for the info, thought that may be the case, but can you confirm that coding plug you mention as fitted in the front bottom right of the dash (below the idiot lights & sitting behind the lower part of the fascia trim? This dash has the plug you describe fitted there rather than in the back of the cluster. Cheers Grant

E30 320i 5 speeds came factory fitted with 3.45 ratio diffs, i have dismantled 3 & they have all had the same ratio, 320i auto with 3.64. Cheers Grant

Can anybody confirm as to being able to change tacho calibration between 4 & 6 cylinders & vice versa in the E30 cluster(without mods to or changing tacho) eg some form of switching mechanism? Cheers Grant

Temp gauge sender reads off the engine - usually near the thermostat, to bleed I normally only 3/4 fill the system then run until up to temp - thermostat opens (bleed screw open if there is one) by this time air will have risen to the top & released, then just a matter of filling to correct level. Recheck when cold. N.B. Cant always rely on temp guage to show high with an airlock even if engine overheats - if there is air sitting behind the sender it will not read correctly - just like a temp guage will not read high if the engine has lost all it's coolant - no coolant to measure temp of. Cheers Grant

Hi, I have a complete conversion kit for sale here:- http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=66648754 in case you haven't seen it. - will suit your application if as mentioned already - your engine has the CAS at the front (I would think it has) Cheers PS Confirming gmccormack - I had an 84 525i which had the M30 engine -uses a different box to the M20 (fitted in E30's)

Hi there, Sure can & should be reset, it is typical for noisy tappets in these engines when they are loose, easy job to reset if you know how - about 1/2 hrs work. Clearences should be 8 or 10 thou - can't remember which offhand. If not sure how - best to get someone who knows. Cheers

Andy, I would take the box out first -unless you can get the car high enough to remove as one unit. You would be able to take the 4 cyl out as a complete unit but not sure on the 6 - I have only ever removed them seperately from the box. Remove bonnet for ease of access, as youvé said remove radiator, air filter box/ AFM, take off alternator to get at & remove power steer pump - if no power steer fitted you can leave alternator on. Disconnect front pipe, you can leave both manifolds & viscous fan on. Obviously disconnect all electrics / cables / fuel lines & lift out -easy if lifting eyes are still fitted to the engine, if not some ingenuity / bracket fabrication required for lifting points. Good luck Grant

Hi Andy, The pipe definitly comes out without steering removal, I have only ever taken it out with vehicle on a hoist with no problem nor having to turn lock so obviously if front wheels are hanging then there is enough clearance. Cheers Grant

Hi all, Anyone wanting a genuine E30 M technic boot spoiler I have one listed here: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=66003486 2 piece unit in good nick just requires repainting to suit vehicle being fitted to.

Hi There, Check resistance with an ohm meter - should be no more than about 15k ohms for each lead. Hard to check insulation though but look for visable cracking/trackiing particually on plastic ends. If you do need replacements - check pricing with BMW - sometimes they can surprise you - either way. Cheers Grant

Hi There, Does battery light (alternator) come on when you turn the key on? If not -alt is crook. As stated already -crook alt will not stop car being jump started. Also if light only came on as the engine stopped, then that is unlikely the problem -was the battery flat when you tried to restart? Check fuel pump working -listen at the back while someone cranks the engine - should hear a faint hum from the tank. Alternatively disconnect the fuel line supply on the engine & momuntarily crank & check for fuel flow -be careful where you aim the fuel. If none then more technical diagnosis is required. Cheers, Good luck.

Jochen, Robinsons instruments in Auckland can now fix those, I sent my dash to "VDO repair" in the states about 18 months ago as at that time no one in NZ could fix - all just said new dash required. Have since sent to Robinsons for work related dashes & they have been able to fix successfully. Cheers Grant

Great Find!! Great report on Great car! Cheers

Hi there, Have you tried operating from passenger door or boot locks -they all operate c/locking. If not working from all 3 locks check fuse 27. If thats ok it is possibly the door lock control module at fault - these are known to fail. It is located in the bottom of the drivers side kick panel -remove trim -under a plastic cover. If this proves the to be the fault I have one listed on trademe -auction 64272995 Also petrol flap lock is on same cicuit hense that not working Good luck

To check fuel gauge: Under the back seat is an access plate, lift seat - unscrew plate for access to the fuel sender. 3 wires in the plug on the sender from memory - brown is earth, one wire for gauge & one wire for low fuel light -cant remember what colours they are. When the gauge is NOT working test by: - disconnect plug, turn ign on, bridge one of the other 2 wires at a time to the earth wire ( with a split pin or similar)- one should bring the low fuel light on, the other should make the gauge go up to full. If it does the sender is faulty, if it doesn't it is a wiring or gauge issue - more likely gauge. If sender ok , then to prove gauge fault you need to remove dash cluster & try earthing the same wire you were checking at the sender at the back of the dash - if no go there then is a dash fault. From memory the only wiring harness plug between gauge & sender is drivers side rear under seat. If you find either required, I can supply replacements, listed on trademe 64271907 -dash or 64404806 -sender Hope this helps Cheers Grant

Hi, It will need fixing as by law if fitted it must work & nowadays it would be very remiss & unusual for a WOF inspector not to be aware of checking the operation of -same with ABS warning light. This particually the case on a late model car that is expected to have these features. As for checking & fixing, it doesn't require BMW to fix but any good workshop or auto sparky with a decent scanner will be able to talk to it & confirm the fault, this is the ONLY real way to confirm the problem as there are several different diagnostic parameters within the system that will cause the light to stay on. To try & work it out without would be total guess work. If something within the system has been disturbed it may well just need resetting - a 2 minute job with a scanner. Depending on the fault it wont necessarily cost you a heap to fix -maybe as cheap as a scanner fee to reset. Hope this helps Grant

Gidday, Haven't struck it, but first step - see any decent sparky or trans specialist that has a scanner to talk to it.

WARNING!! Be very careful with front screen as it is laminated & will break very easily -I know- I broke one recently. Before attempting to remove, let the glass & rubber warm in the sun -the rubber is much more plyable then & Im told the glass is less brittle. As stated - remove bead insert & start by easing out from a top corner taking care not to put pressure in one spot of the glass. Once part of the glass is freed it will come out easily. Safer bet if it is not wanted is to sacrifice the rubber by cutting along with a stanley knife. Rear screen same procedure but no real risk of breaking as it is only toughened glass which is nowhere near as easy to break as laminated. Good Luck!!