hotwire

Haven't got pic handy but is very straight forward - 2 mins to remove. Inside lower screw (torx head) is in line with inside upper (parallel with). Outside lower is on engine side of rubber boot that surrounds the main bulb. Headlight adjuster is the 4 wire plug at the centre top of the lamp - would expect new lamps to have those already.

I take it you are fitting replacement lamps & not angel eye rings inside existing? 4 screws to remove headlight assy - 2 up top, 2 down, torx head from memory. Disconnect all plugs & remove lamp assy There are variations of replacement lamps out there - some plug & play, some require wiring mods, if unsure best to fit then get an auto sparky to wire them. DONT throw the spanner - you may break something!!

From the agents - E36 B/L switches notorious to failure, also as already mentioned are bulb holders - if tweeking the contact - be sure to clean both holder & lamp contacts to ensure good clean connection otherwise they will continue to arc & destroy the connection

Basic layout is the same in both, yes exhaust flanges different - pre is 3 stud, F/L is 4

Rear could be a tired motor but also dry guides - try lubricating rubber guides with silicone spray - do all doors for that matter. Front - sounds like window regulator assy - they have plastic parts that break, wire can catch on the spool. Need to confirm & replace the regulator assy if need be.

Hi, Welcome aboard, great to see youre into the real cars now. Good luck with the repairs.

Agreed - a great tool to show those not mechanically minded

Mal Take box off engine first - not hard apart from reaching the top bell housing bolts. Driveshafts only different between auto & manual -manual longer. Cheers Grant

Do I smell another race car???? Good luck - becoming rare!!

Yea welcome - Im sure youll find this site of interest, always someone thats had experience with most issues that crop up with cars from this marque.

Can get delivered on Mainfreight if wished for $35 - 40 027 6146607 or PM me Cheers Grant

Got a good one in an 88 318i done 150k, drove well, $385 Cheers Grant

Take it to an auto sparky - should be easy for them to diagnose, if you require parts -solenoids/control module - I can help

Yea a bit steep, only an hour or so work -assumming only changing key barrell & not the whole steering lock assy otherwise probably 2. $650 for locks over the top too - I would have expected 1/2 that at most

No problem, mine dont either but would like a pair that do.

Hre you keeping the grills? If not - have they got the chrome strip around the edge?

They can be a prick to bleed, open bleed screw, try only 2/3 filling the system & get engine up to temperature (heater control on hot), air should then bleed out, close bleed screw then fill to correct level.

sh*t this has me thinking! In order from memory: 71 Mk 1 Escort 1300 75 Mk 3 Cortina 2000E 80 Mk 2 Escort 1600 Ghia 82 Mk 5 Cortina 2.3 Ghia 82 Honda Civic Hatch * 76 Triumph 2.5 TC * 84 Commodore VK 3.3L Royale * 82 Mitsi Sigma 2000 80 Mitsi Mirage GL * 86 Mazda 626 GLX * 82 Mitsi Mirage GLX * 65 Anglia Delux 82 Honda Accord Hatch 79 Mk 2 Escort 1300 GL ** 76 XB Falcon 78 BMW E12 520i ----- Currently own 86 Audi Quattro Coupe 99 BMW E39 525i ------ Currently own 89 BMW E30 320i ** 89 BMW E30 320i ** * Bought as W/Offs & repaired ** Bought to sell & a Honda XR250 somewhere in the middle of that lot

Check with BMW, they have available & usually well priced.

Is your car of Jap origin? If so they use an infra red signal between car & remote whereas other markets use RF which has much better range. Not much you can do about it.

From what I have seen at work of Singapore BMW's I cant say I have seen any issues so far (apart from lower spec climate etc) but I have seen some scary sights on several MB's - cracked & perished trim rubbers & wiring with insulation literally breaking off the wire - a can of worms for the future. These issues have been on cars from only 3 - 6 years old too.

What car, what colour light?

3 Pedals - Yes agree entirely re Jap domestic tyres & their wear / compound /stickabilty etc. I would say though that BMW would have entered Japan with tyres already fitted in Europe (these Michelins were made in USA. Car was barely 5 years old at the time of me importing. Agreed also that 18's are performance orientated hense wear factor. Allan, Hardly drove here on Michelins to form a perfomance opinion but regarding noise - Toyo 235/40 18's are only very minimally more noisy than the Michelin 225/60 15's were. The fact that BMW often spec Michelin as OE fit could be used as a guide to suitability on them but also taking into account that our roads are way inferior to those in Europe or Japan complicates the consideration.

As a guide line, when I bought in my E39 from Japan it had (genuine) 24k on it. Original factory Michelin Energy MXV4 tyres were all evenly 50% worn so from that presumably would have been good for 40-50000 kms. I removed & fitted 18's so dont know for sure what I would have got from them. Tyre wear has since gone out the window with 18's - the price you pay for performance & looks I guess. Add to the confusion Grant

3pedals Agreed with your comments - a shunt ammeter takes away the risk factor associated - I nearly suggested as an alternative myself but really I still question the "need" for an ammeter anyway. With a known maximum potential current load in the vehicle v its alternator output a voltmeter will suffice for monitoring the system. As for an automotive ammeter telling of faulty diode - was not suggesting they would but was merely pointing out that a 60 amp or even 30 for that matter wont show a fault like that - a fault with potential to cause a flat battery. Yes you may see a sticking brake light switch but in reality - how likely is that fault? For diode leak or any other leakage I use a digital meter on 10 amp scale for precise measurement With the above stats (draw v output) known the system takes care of itself. A boken battery supply to the alt will show with a drop in voltage in the meter & regulator / rectifier damage will occur anyway if it was likely to with this senario regardless of an ammeter in the system. Finally - yes you get what you pay for.