hotwire

DITTO!! Dont fit, really is superfluous for this application & as said they do fail & cause greef - especially cheap ones. The potential current through them can cause heat build up then meltdown. A volt meter tells the story as to alternator charging state without the risk. Admittedly doesn't show current charge / discharge but with a vehicle with a known total current demand & known alternator ouput that exceeds that potential demand then barring alternator /charging system failure (which will be indicated with low reading on voltmeter) then the system takes care of itself. Also a 60 amp range meter will not show a slight current leakage - eg shorted diode in alt. Ammeters aint worth the hassle. The ony time I use one is when checking a charging system/ current draw on a car in the workshop.

The circuit breaker is a rectangular button mounted vertically om dash R/H side of steering wheel, if tripped you will see a red ring showing around the button - push to reset. Also there is a blue relay behind the glove box that switches power to the circuit breaker, - these relays fail in the printed circuit, dismantle & check for dry solder joints on the board.

Or it floats.....

VW for me, although 306's a good little looker - I hate the build quality of the French over the German.

Yea thats right, nobody else can see until they answer or until the end of the auction. So - no help to others if they dont answer during listing. Only way is official channels.

Different. Bit of a handful by the looks. Slowest Ive ever seen a F1 car go!

As I said -OFTEN more competitive, not always. I always check genuine first & then do a comparison if I suspect I can buy substantially better elsewhere. If realitivly competitive then genuine certainly way to go

Yes genuine often more competative - They had cartridge oil filters last month for $9.95 trade covering most applications, E38/39 air con micro filters also cheaper than aftermarket as with a lot of brake pads.

Will, Get confused with all the pre-f/l & f/l's in that explanation???

Martyyn, Don't know how likely it will be to be coming through that vent, did you seal around bodywork itself or just plastic panels?. The bonnet itself will not be forming a seal on rubbers - only forms a seal to guide fresh air through the air con filters, -you should be able to hose water anywhere under the bonnet without water entering the cabin. Is it only leaking on the passenger side?

Martyyn, dont know specifically but I would be pretty sure it would be one piece (under console) & would be the same set up as my E39. Typically most cars are that way. Where is it wet -one side or both? Has it any antifreeze in it? - leaking heater assy. If only one side is wet you could remove all trims & seat on that side & lift the carpet to dry, you will find that there is a thick layer of foam moulded to the underneath & it is very stiff to move. To fully remove & refit - I would suggest is quite a major job in one of these cars. If not the heater, on the left it could be around the ECU/ fuse box area where wiring etc leads from engine bay into the cabin. Good luck

Agreed with these answers - If you have no mechanical knowledge then seriously - you should get it done professionally. You are opening a potential "can of worms" if you go in to this sort of thing blind.

Yea true, but well take it anyway - they would

Has that stuck one up the aussies or not?? 10 wicket win!! Good on you guys

No oil will drain out (obviously as long as engine not running). Yes you can use this port to connect extra guage sender - just fit a tee fitting to house both. No you cant use one sender for both - the existing is only a pressure switch (on/off) whereas a guage sender is a variable resistance

Can do, are you talking the lock barrell assy or the door latch assy?

I was most surprised too to get only 15k from a set of Toyo 235/35 18s on the rear of my E39. Admittedly it was running a little to much neg camber - was only thinking it being time to shift front to rear when I found the rears stuffed. Not even hard driving either - the other 1/2 drives it mostly & she aint a race driver. Obviously the bigger the feet - the more performance orientated they are & at the expense of milage

I have an 84 SA 2.3 engine taken out & still currently complete, has little or no compression - I was planning to salvage probably only the head - if any good, so if you need anything else you are welcome to let me know or check it out Cheers Grant

Firstly, idle control valve (ICV) has no bearing on compressions - just controls/maintains stable idle under all situations. I would expect more even compressions than that for that milage BUT depends on its origin/ service history. Asian cars - particually Jap are reknown for lack of servicing which can dramatically shorten an engines lifespan. Could at best, be gummed up & just need a good flush / service to resurect compressions or at worst be the start of something more serious.

I can supply one- call or PM me 027 614 6607 Cheers Grant

Dont quote but Im under the impression that they do interchange, the one on my E39 fits perfectly & it was supposidly suited for an E36 as well.

Allan, Is this in your E39? If so I would imagine no. Very complex lighting system in them controlling a vast array of interior illumination. This orange is trademark BMW -even my old E12 has exactly the same -You don't like it? - I reacon its brilliant. As stated aftermarket variations can be obtained different earlier models but I think you are stuck with what you have in yours. Cheers Grant

Done.

Our E39 good for two kids & gear, as already said a high spec E39 has nearly as many goodies as the 7. Personal preference is the 5 - little more nimble but nothing against a 7. If you REALLY want room buy the 7 Will showed.

Cheap antifreeze aint the go -even changing every 12 months - ask any good radiator repairer about sub standard antifreeze. It should be changed every two years - longer with the longlife brews. Also antifreeze does have an influence on the cooling effect of the system.