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Everything posted by hotwire
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As I said -OFTEN more competitive, not always. I always check genuine first & then do a comparison if I suspect I can buy substantially better elsewhere. If realitivly competitive then genuine certainly way to go
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Yes genuine often more competative - They had cartridge oil filters last month for $9.95 trade covering most applications, E38/39 air con micro filters also cheaper than aftermarket as with a lot of brake pads.
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Will, Get confused with all the pre-f/l & f/l's in that explanation???
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Martyyn, Don't know how likely it will be to be coming through that vent, did you seal around bodywork itself or just plastic panels?. The bonnet itself will not be forming a seal on rubbers - only forms a seal to guide fresh air through the air con filters, -you should be able to hose water anywhere under the bonnet without water entering the cabin. Is it only leaking on the passenger side?
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Martyyn, dont know specifically but I would be pretty sure it would be one piece (under console) & would be the same set up as my E39. Typically most cars are that way. Where is it wet -one side or both? Has it any antifreeze in it? - leaking heater assy. If only one side is wet you could remove all trims & seat on that side & lift the carpet to dry, you will find that there is a thick layer of foam moulded to the underneath & it is very stiff to move. To fully remove & refit - I would suggest is quite a major job in one of these cars. If not the heater, on the left it could be around the ECU/ fuse box area where wiring etc leads from engine bay into the cabin. Good luck
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Agreed with these answers - If you have no mechanical knowledge then seriously - you should get it done professionally. You are opening a potential "can of worms" if you go in to this sort of thing blind.
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No oil will drain out (obviously as long as engine not running). Yes you can use this port to connect extra guage sender - just fit a tee fitting to house both. No you cant use one sender for both - the existing is only a pressure switch (on/off) whereas a guage sender is a variable resistance
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Can do, are you talking the lock barrell assy or the door latch assy?
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I was most surprised too to get only 15k from a set of Toyo 235/35 18s on the rear of my E39. Admittedly it was running a little to much neg camber - was only thinking it being time to shift front to rear when I found the rears stuffed. Not even hard driving either - the other 1/2 drives it mostly & she aint a race driver. Obviously the bigger the feet - the more performance orientated they are & at the expense of milage
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I have an 84 SA 2.3 engine taken out & still currently complete, has little or no compression - I was planning to salvage probably only the head - if any good, so if you need anything else you are welcome to let me know or check it out Cheers Grant
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Firstly, idle control valve (ICV) has no bearing on compressions - just controls/maintains stable idle under all situations. I would expect more even compressions than that for that milage BUT depends on its origin/ service history. Asian cars - particually Jap are reknown for lack of servicing which can dramatically shorten an engines lifespan. Could at best, be gummed up & just need a good flush / service to resurect compressions or at worst be the start of something more serious.
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WTB:the piece that goes from the bellhousing to the engine
hotwire replied to phtbmr's topic in Want to buy
I can supply one- call or PM me 027 614 6607 Cheers Grant -
Dont quote but Im under the impression that they do interchange, the one on my E39 fits perfectly & it was supposidly suited for an E36 as well.
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Allan, Is this in your E39? If so I would imagine no. Very complex lighting system in them controlling a vast array of interior illumination. This orange is trademark BMW -even my old E12 has exactly the same -You don't like it? - I reacon its brilliant. As stated aftermarket variations can be obtained different earlier models but I think you are stuck with what you have in yours. Cheers Grant
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Our E39 good for two kids & gear, as already said a high spec E39 has nearly as many goodies as the 7. Personal preference is the 5 - little more nimble but nothing against a 7. If you REALLY want room buy the 7 Will showed.
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Cheap antifreeze aint the go -even changing every 12 months - ask any good radiator repairer about sub standard antifreeze. It should be changed every two years - longer with the longlife brews. Also antifreeze does have an influence on the cooling effect of the system.
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Robinsons Instrument Services in Auckland can do them. I sent my dash to a VDO Repair outfit in the states a couple of years ago as no one in NZ could do them at that time. I introduced Robinsons to these guys & they have since communicated with them & picked up the ball & are able to fix. Have since used them for work related pixel repairs successfully. Around $450 from memory - better than about 1200 bucks for a new one.
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Sounds very suspicious to me, yes there are coolants of varying quality out there (some not good at all) but any "quality" one would do. No doubt theirs is but not to say there aren't others as good.
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sounds better, at least it would still have decent engineering & not a boat anchor!!!
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More likely to be a broken wire in the sensors circuit - L/H front & R/H rear wheels, typical to break in the wiring plugs on the strut on the front or the backing plate at the rear. It is a closed loop circuit back to the dash that when broken - trips the light on. These are very fine wires -check for a break behind each side of the plugs. This assuming obviously that the pads are ok. Can supply replacement wiring plugs if you confirm as that