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hotwire

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Posts posted by hotwire

  1. Posted · Report reply

    I got jiggy with the it and got it working. Not sure what it is exactly, but if I move them, it makes a clicky clicking noise on the LHS beside the speaker in the opposing switch I think. Will replace them both on the weekend.

    Hi Andy,

    The clicking is the relay behind the glovebox that controls the windows from " door open ", as Gus said - dirty contacts in door switches - easy to remove & clean contact area of them or replace if you have others.

    Cheers

    Grant

  8. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks guys, it doesn't appear as if theres an airlock BUT whats happened now, only since I flushed the radiator (which I'm fast starting to wish I'd never touched) is that the heater cuts in and out at random regardless of whether its on auto or manual, the whole display goes out then lights up and goes hard out etc etc. Could this be just a coincidental electrical fault or have I muffed something with the radiator flush etc????

    Hi, Can't imagine it being cooling system related - did you disturb any wiring (earths etc) when servicing the cooling system?

    Otherwise I would suspect it being coincidental.

  9. Posted · Report reply

    thnx man!

    ill ring george stock tmrw and see what the pricing is like.

    do u think if i get monroes that they'll be worse than what i have on now, which is standard 1993 e36 shocks (SA import).

    Depends how bad your ones are - shocks are past their best at 40000km's on NZ roads. Your cars original spec shocks when new would certainly out perform Monroe, - leave the Monroe's for the aussie S##t

  10. Posted · Edited by hotwire · Report reply

    Hi, If it is a factory fitted BMW unit it won't have a star rating. To my knowledge ( being an authorised NZSA alarm installer) only aftermarket units that are submitted for apraisal are awarded with a star rating -depending on the level of criteria they meet - 1 being least & 5 the highest. I am not aware of any factory fit units having a rating - not saying that they wouldn't meet the criteria of various ratings though

    For a list of alarms & their ratings, see the NZ security association (NZSA) website

    Cheers

    Grant

  11. Posted · Report reply

    Don't go for Monroe, from my experience, Beemers as with some other euro cars dont like them, as stated earlier Koni excellent option but also can be costly, I have fitted KYB's to E36's & found them good - good pricing too. George Stocks can do those too.

    Cheers

    Grant

  13. Posted · Edited by hotwire · Report reply

    The instrument clusters were fitted with a coding plug in 86. It's a 10 x 20mm plastic rectange with two clips holding it in to the back of the cluster assembly. Fit a 6 cylinder plug to your 4 cylinder tach and it should read correctly. If your car is pre 86 it's easier to swap the whole cluster

    Thanks for the info, thought that may be the case, but can you confirm that coding plug you mention as fitted in the front bottom right of the dash (below the idiot lights & sitting behind the lower part of the fascia trim? This dash has the plug you describe fitted there rather than in the back of the cluster.

    Cheers

    Grant

  16. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks Bravo, I loosened the bleed valve but not until most of the coolant had been replaced, massaged the hoses and got quite a few bubbles out. Does the temp gauge read from the block or just the radiator?

    Temp gauge sender reads off the engine - usually near the thermostat, to bleed I normally only 3/4 fill the system then run until up to temp - thermostat opens (bleed screw open if there is one) by this time air will have risen to the top & released, then just a matter of filling to correct level. Recheck when cold.

    N.B. Cant always rely on temp guage to show high with an airlock even if engine overheats - if there is air sitting behind the sender it will not read correctly - just like a temp guage will not read high if the engine has lost all it's coolant - no coolant to measure temp of.

    Cheers Grant

  18. Posted · Report reply

    Hi there,

    Sure can & should be reset, it is typical for noisy tappets in these engines when they are loose, easy job to reset if you know how - about 1/2 hrs work. Clearences should be 8 or 10 thou - can't remember which offhand. If not sure how - best to get someone who knows.

    Cheers

  19. Posted · Report reply

    What do I need to disassemble / take out first before removing the engine?

    The obvious being

    - exhaust

    - radiator

    - AFM

    do I need to take off the exhaust manifold ?

    does the alternator stay on ?

    any tips as to how to make this easier. I'm pretty newbie to this all, so learning as I go. Pays not to screw it up first time though.

    The gearbox is going to be removed from the engine any how.. so would it be easier to take it off and remove separately or remove the whole lot at once.

    Cheers

    Andy

    Andy,

    I would take the box out first -unless you can get the car high enough to remove as one unit.

    You would be able to take the 4 cyl out as a complete unit but not sure on the 6 - I have only ever removed them seperately from the box.

    Remove bonnet for ease of access, as youvé said remove radiator, air filter box/ AFM, take off alternator to get at & remove power steer pump - if no power steer fitted you can leave alternator on. Disconnect front pipe, you can leave both manifolds & viscous fan on.

    Obviously disconnect all electrics / cables / fuel lines & lift out -easy if lifting eyes are still fitted to the engine, if not some ingenuity / bracket fabrication required for lifting points.

    Good luck

    Grant

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Hi Andy,

    The pipe definitly comes out without steering removal, I have only ever taken it out with vehicle on a hoist with no problem nor having to turn lock so obviously if front wheels are hanging then there is enough clearance.

    Cheers

    Grant

  22. Posted · Report reply

    Hi There,

    Check resistance with an ohm meter - should be no more than about 15k ohms for each lead.

    Hard to check insulation though but look for visable cracking/trackiing particually on plastic ends.

    If you do need replacements - check pricing with BMW - sometimes they can surprise you - either way.

    Cheers Grant

  23. Posted · Report reply

    Hi There, Does battery light (alternator) come on when you turn the key on? If not -alt is crook. As stated already -crook alt will not stop car being jump started. Also if light only came on as the engine stopped, then that is unlikely the problem -was the battery flat when you tried to restart?

    Check fuel pump working -listen at the back while someone cranks the engine - should hear a faint hum from the tank. Alternatively disconnect the fuel line supply on the engine & momuntarily crank & check for fuel flow -be careful where you aim the fuel. If none then more technical diagnosis is required.

    Cheers, Good luck.

  24. Posted · Report reply

    Jochen, Robinsons instruments in Auckland can now fix those, I sent my dash to "VDO repair" in the states about 18 months ago as at that time no one in NZ could fix - all just said new dash required.

    Have since sent to Robinsons for work related dashes & they have been able to fix successfully.

    Cheers Grant

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