hotwire

I once got quoted about $70 retail for a FRAM oil filter for my 540i from SuperCheap. So my mate in the trade got it for me from Repco - at trade price it cost about $20 when they had a sale on. The time before that, he got one for me at trade price from Repco for about $40 (if I recall correctly). The other day I was in BMW and I mentioned the high price of oil filters for my 540i. They were rather puzzled and said a BMW one would cost me $19.95 (normal retail price I presume). They went on to say that they are generally lots cheaper for all servicing type parts, including brake pads. They also said if I get a price elsewhere, they will better it anyway.

Goes to show, genuine parts might be the best, but sometimes they are also the cheapest.

I will test their claims as time goes on, but would like to hear if others have found the same thing.

BTW, this is from Jeff Gray (Palmerston North). They are also the BMW dealers in Hawkes Bay and now Wellington as well (previously Shelly BMW down there).

Anyway, be aware that SuperCheap are not always Super Cheap! (Although they were cheaper than Repco for a car Radio/MP3 player I bought recently).

P

Yes genuine often more competative - They had cartridge oil filters last month for $9.95 trade covering most applications, E38/39 air con micro filters also cheaper than aftermarket as with a lot of brake pads.

You can make the front/rear spoilers fit but you need to use the pre-fl bumpers and make up bumper brackets and a few other adjustments. It is a real fiddly job and not worth the effort imo because you age a f/l back to pre-f/l.

I have done both conversions.. pre-f/l with f/l kit and f/l with pre-f/l kit, the pre-f/l with f/l kit is by far the easier and worth doing, not the other way around.

Will

Will, Get confused with all the pre-f/l & f/l's in that explanation???

Martyyn, Don't know how likely it will be to be coming through that vent, did you seal around bodywork itself or just plastic panels?.

The bonnet itself will not be forming a seal on rubbers - only forms a seal to guide fresh air through the air con filters, -you should be able to hose water anywhere under the bonnet without water entering the cabin.

Is it only leaking on the passenger side?

Martyyn, dont know specifically but I would be pretty sure it would be one piece (under console) & would be the same set up as my E39. Typically most cars are that way.

Where is it wet -one side or both? Has it any antifreeze in it? - leaking heater assy.

If only one side is wet you could remove all trims & seat on that side & lift the carpet to dry, you will find that there is a thick layer of foam moulded to the underneath & it is very stiff to move. To fully remove & refit - I would suggest is quite a major job in one of these cars.

If not the heater, on the left it could be around the ECU/ fuse box area where wiring etc leads from engine bay into the cabin.

Good luck

Agreed with these answers - If you have no mechanical knowledge then seriously - you should get it done professionally. You are opening a potential "can of worms" if you go in to this sort of thing blind.

Yeah. BUT just remember Aussie were missing, Lee, Gilchrist, Ponting, Symonds and Clarke - so really it was like playing Australia B.

Yea true, but well take it anyway - they would

Has that stuck one up the aussies or not?? 10 wicket win!! Good on you guys

or instead of hooking up another sender can i just splice the oil guage wire into the existing sender?

No oil will drain out (obviously as long as engine not running). Yes you can use this port to connect extra guage sender - just fit a tee fitting to house both. No you cant use one sender for both - the existing is only a pressure switch (on/off) whereas a guage sender is a variable resistance

bump.Anyone!?

Can do, are you talking the lock barrell assy or the door latch assy?

I was most surprised too to get only 15k from a set of Toyo 235/35 18s on the rear of my E39. Admittedly it was running a little to much neg camber - was only thinking it being time to shift front to rear when I found the rears stuffed. Not even hard driving either - the other 1/2 drives it mostly & she aint a race driver. Obviously the bigger the feet - the more performance orientated they are & at the expense of milage

I've just aquired a 1984 2.3 E30 Hartge which has been in a fire. I'm hoping to find a prefacelift 320 coupe to rebuild with all the good bits. Has the manual box, getrag 245 I think, and a 3.46 LSD? Lovely BBS 15 x 8 rims, should come up good with a polish and clean. The head and block are ok I think, but all the rest in the engine bay will need replacing. Need info on what engine is compatible with the 2.3 as far as donor parts go, and opinion as to whether it's worth all the hassle? Cheers.

I have an 84 SA 2.3 engine taken out & still currently complete, has little or no compression - I was planning to salvage probably only the head - if any good, so if you need anything else you are welcome to let me know or check it out

Cheers Grant

Hello anyone else taken their BMW e39 into the AA for a full test and had the compression readings back? I had a 1997 E39 Japan issue 540i and about three of the cylinders were at 80%. Three others were at about 100% and the last two were in the 90%+ range. About 147,000 on the clock. (Report said satisfactory for age and mileage).

What are other peoples AA readings on their BMW V8's?

Firstly, idle control valve (ICV) has no bearing on compressions - just controls/maintains stable idle under all situations. I would expect more even compressions than that for that milage BUT depends on its origin/ service history. Asian cars - particually Jap are reknown for lack of servicing which can dramatically shorten an engines lifespan. Could at best, be gummed up & just need a good flush / service to resurect compressions or at worst be the start of something more serious.

i was after the piece that goes from the bellhousing to the engine,

The thing in the picture please does any body know?

I can supply one- call or PM me 027 614 6607

Cheers

Grant

Dont quote but Im under the impression that they do interchange, the one on my E39 fits perfectly & it was supposidly suited for an E36 as well.

hi! can the colour of one's dash lighting be changed. if so is it an easy exercise or does it require some re- programming. or are you stuck with what you have, the in sipped orange is beginning to get on my wick. is Jochen the man to contact on this one?any friendly advice cheers allan

Allan, Is this in your E39? If so I would imagine no. Very complex lighting system in them controlling a vast array of interior illumination. This orange is trademark BMW -even my old E12 has exactly the same -You don't like it? - I reacon its brilliant. As stated aftermarket variations can be obtained different earlier models but I think you are stuck with what you have in yours. Cheers Grant

Done.

Our E39 good for two kids & gear, as already said a high spec E39 has nearly as many goodies as the 7. Personal preference is the 5 - little more nimble but nothing against a 7.

If you REALLY want room buy the 7 Will showed.

Cheap antifreeze aint the go -even changing every 12 months - ask any good radiator repairer about sub standard antifreeze. It should be changed every two years - longer with the longlife brews.

Also antifreeze does have an influence on the cooling effect of the system.

Robinsons Instrument Services in Auckland can do them. I sent my dash to a VDO Repair outfit in the states a couple of years ago as no one in NZ could do them at that time. I introduced Robinsons to these guys & they have since communicated with them & picked up the ball & are able to fix.

Have since used them for work related pixel repairs successfully. Around $450 from memory - better than about 1200 bucks for a new one.

TOOK CAR FOR SERVICE TODAY THEY NEED TO FLUSH OLD COOLANT AND REPLACE WITH SPECIAL BMW COOLANT

IS THIS CORRECT, IS THERE SUCH STUFF . OR WILL ANY COOLANT DO. THANKS

Sounds very suspicious to me, yes there are coolants of varying quality out there (some not good at all) but any "quality" one would do. No doubt theirs is but not to say there aren't others as good.

That's all very well but this is where they belong!!!

NOT WRONG!!!

Yeh, the M30 probably sounds better!

plus you can get one of those badass turbocharging dynamics kits!

sounds better, at least it would still have decent engineering & not a boat anchor!!!

318 Chrysler V8 = 230hp from factory, so I don't know why you'd swap the 218hp M30 for one..

Unless it's been worked, in which case it could be an easy 300hp.

Still aint the same!

means that your brake pads somewhere along the line are worn to the point where metal is hitting metal and connecting hte circuit to the brakepad lining sensor. This means that your pads may need to be changed.

Mine sometimes flickers on and off, I was told by my mechanic that the pads are fine, its just they are not OEM brand ones and dont bed properly but is nothing to worry about. Have them checked sometime.

More likely to be a broken wire in the sensors circuit - L/H front & R/H rear wheels, typical to break in the wiring plugs on the strut on the front or the backing plate at the rear. It is a closed loop circuit back to the dash that when broken - trips the light on.

These are very fine wires -check for a break behind each side of the plugs. This assuming obviously that the pads are ok.

Can supply replacement wiring plugs if you confirm as that

ok ive replaced the battery and now the car starts and drives sweet, the yellow exclamation mark on my dash board has gone but there is still a red battery light on my dash, it disapears once i go above 50ks anything under it pops up on my dash, could this be the alternator? any suggustions? much appreciated,

josh

If the charge light (battery light) comes on & stays on then it is the alt or possibly associated wiring -NOT the battery, best get it seen to by an auto sparky if you are not familiar with the system otherwise you will be chasing your tail with it