hotwire

i have a 318i 1992, yeah all the switches failed. u got a picture of the trip switch so i know what it looks like.?

The circuit breaker is a rectangular button mounted vertically om dash R/H side of steering wheel, if tripped you will see a red ring showing around the button - push to reset.

Also there is a blue relay behind the glove box that switches power to the circuit breaker, - these relays fail in the printed circuit, dismantle & check for dry solder joints on the board.

nath, I have a friend whose onto his third Ferrari. He's had a similar list of problems to your Gran. He loves the cars, but says they are in constant need of small repairs (not cheap - just small). It doesn't have to be French or American to have problems. If its got tits or wheels...

Or it floats.....

VW for me, although 306's a good little looker - I hate the build quality of the French over the German.

you can ask a question ,and nobody else can see it until he answers(that s right isnt it?)....if he doesnt answer praps then go the official TM route

Yea thats right, nobody else can see until they answer or until the end of the auction. So - no help to others if they dont answer during listing. Only way is official channels.

Different. Bit of a handful by the looks. Slowest Ive ever seen a F1 car go!

woluldnt really agree with you guys

got a quote from jeff gray hastings to replace my cam shaft and all the bits associated with it.

took the list they gave me to bnt, and got all the parts for nearly half price than on jeff grays quote.

As I said -OFTEN more competitive, not always. I always check genuine first & then do a comparison if I suspect I can buy substantially better elsewhere. If realitivly competitive then genuine certainly way to go

I once got quoted about $70 retail for a FRAM oil filter for my 540i from SuperCheap. So my mate in the trade got it for me from Repco - at trade price it cost about $20 when they had a sale on. The time before that, he got one for me at trade price from Repco for about $40 (if I recall correctly). The other day I was in BMW and I mentioned the high price of oil filters for my 540i. They were rather puzzled and said a BMW one would cost me $19.95 (normal retail price I presume). They went on to say that they are generally lots cheaper for all servicing type parts, including brake pads. They also said if I get a price elsewhere, they will better it anyway.

Goes to show, genuine parts might be the best, but sometimes they are also the cheapest.

I will test their claims as time goes on, but would like to hear if others have found the same thing.

BTW, this is from Jeff Gray (Palmerston North). They are also the BMW dealers in Hawkes Bay and now Wellington as well (previously Shelly BMW down there).

Anyway, be aware that SuperCheap are not always Super Cheap! (Although they were cheaper than Repco for a car Radio/MP3 player I bought recently).

P

Yes genuine often more competative - They had cartridge oil filters last month for $9.95 trade covering most applications, E38/39 air con micro filters also cheaper than aftermarket as with a lot of brake pads.

You can make the front/rear spoilers fit but you need to use the pre-fl bumpers and make up bumper brackets and a few other adjustments. It is a real fiddly job and not worth the effort imo because you age a f/l back to pre-f/l.

I have done both conversions.. pre-f/l with f/l kit and f/l with pre-f/l kit, the pre-f/l with f/l kit is by far the easier and worth doing, not the other way around.

Will

Will, Get confused with all the pre-f/l & f/l's in that explanation???

Martyyn, Don't know how likely it will be to be coming through that vent, did you seal around bodywork itself or just plastic panels?.

The bonnet itself will not be forming a seal on rubbers - only forms a seal to guide fresh air through the air con filters, -you should be able to hose water anywhere under the bonnet without water entering the cabin.

Is it only leaking on the passenger side?

Martyyn, dont know specifically but I would be pretty sure it would be one piece (under console) & would be the same set up as my E39. Typically most cars are that way.

Where is it wet -one side or both? Has it any antifreeze in it? - leaking heater assy.

If only one side is wet you could remove all trims & seat on that side & lift the carpet to dry, you will find that there is a thick layer of foam moulded to the underneath & it is very stiff to move. To fully remove & refit - I would suggest is quite a major job in one of these cars.

If not the heater, on the left it could be around the ECU/ fuse box area where wiring etc leads from engine bay into the cabin.

Good luck

Agreed with these answers - If you have no mechanical knowledge then seriously - you should get it done professionally. You are opening a potential "can of worms" if you go in to this sort of thing blind.

Yeah. BUT just remember Aussie were missing, Lee, Gilchrist, Ponting, Symonds and Clarke - so really it was like playing Australia B.

Yea true, but well take it anyway - they would

Has that stuck one up the aussies or not?? 10 wicket win!! Good on you guys

or instead of hooking up another sender can i just splice the oil guage wire into the existing sender?

No oil will drain out (obviously as long as engine not running). Yes you can use this port to connect extra guage sender - just fit a tee fitting to house both. No you cant use one sender for both - the existing is only a pressure switch (on/off) whereas a guage sender is a variable resistance

bump.Anyone!?

Can do, are you talking the lock barrell assy or the door latch assy?

I was most surprised too to get only 15k from a set of Toyo 235/35 18s on the rear of my E39. Admittedly it was running a little to much neg camber - was only thinking it being time to shift front to rear when I found the rears stuffed. Not even hard driving either - the other 1/2 drives it mostly & she aint a race driver. Obviously the bigger the feet - the more performance orientated they are & at the expense of milage

I've just aquired a 1984 2.3 E30 Hartge which has been in a fire. I'm hoping to find a prefacelift 320 coupe to rebuild with all the good bits. Has the manual box, getrag 245 I think, and a 3.46 LSD? Lovely BBS 15 x 8 rims, should come up good with a polish and clean. The head and block are ok I think, but all the rest in the engine bay will need replacing. Need info on what engine is compatible with the 2.3 as far as donor parts go, and opinion as to whether it's worth all the hassle? Cheers.

I have an 84 SA 2.3 engine taken out & still currently complete, has little or no compression - I was planning to salvage probably only the head - if any good, so if you need anything else you are welcome to let me know or check it out

Cheers Grant

Hello anyone else taken their BMW e39 into the AA for a full test and had the compression readings back? I had a 1997 E39 Japan issue 540i and about three of the cylinders were at 80%. Three others were at about 100% and the last two were in the 90%+ range. About 147,000 on the clock. (Report said satisfactory for age and mileage).

What are other peoples AA readings on their BMW V8's?

Firstly, idle control valve (ICV) has no bearing on compressions - just controls/maintains stable idle under all situations. I would expect more even compressions than that for that milage BUT depends on its origin/ service history. Asian cars - particually Jap are reknown for lack of servicing which can dramatically shorten an engines lifespan. Could at best, be gummed up & just need a good flush / service to resurect compressions or at worst be the start of something more serious.

i was after the piece that goes from the bellhousing to the engine,

The thing in the picture please does any body know?

I can supply one- call or PM me 027 614 6607

Cheers

Grant

Dont quote but Im under the impression that they do interchange, the one on my E39 fits perfectly & it was supposidly suited for an E36 as well.

hi! can the colour of one's dash lighting be changed. if so is it an easy exercise or does it require some re- programming. or are you stuck with what you have, the in sipped orange is beginning to get on my wick. is Jochen the man to contact on this one?any friendly advice cheers allan

Allan, Is this in your E39? If so I would imagine no. Very complex lighting system in them controlling a vast array of interior illumination. This orange is trademark BMW -even my old E12 has exactly the same -You don't like it? - I reacon its brilliant. As stated aftermarket variations can be obtained different earlier models but I think you are stuck with what you have in yours. Cheers Grant

Done.

Our E39 good for two kids & gear, as already said a high spec E39 has nearly as many goodies as the 7. Personal preference is the 5 - little more nimble but nothing against a 7.

If you REALLY want room buy the 7 Will showed.

Cheap antifreeze aint the go -even changing every 12 months - ask any good radiator repairer about sub standard antifreeze. It should be changed every two years - longer with the longlife brews.

Also antifreeze does have an influence on the cooling effect of the system.

Robinsons Instrument Services in Auckland can do them. I sent my dash to a VDO Repair outfit in the states a couple of years ago as no one in NZ could do them at that time. I introduced Robinsons to these guys & they have since communicated with them & picked up the ball & are able to fix.

Have since used them for work related pixel repairs successfully. Around $450 from memory - better than about 1200 bucks for a new one.