hotwire

Hi there, Have you tried operating from passenger door or boot locks -they all operate c/locking.

If not working from all 3 locks check fuse 27. If thats ok it is possibly the door lock control module at fault - these are known to fail.

It is located in the bottom of the drivers side kick panel -remove trim -under a plastic cover. If this proves the to be the fault I have one listed on trademe -auction 64272995

Also petrol flap lock is on same cicuit hense that not working

Good luck

Cheers all,Good to know theres people tht really know there stuff bout beemas...Honestly didnt think there wood be lol

The Check light is flashing cos th motor/pump for th window washer fluid is rooted and the wiper fluif light on the roof is on..spose thts tht problem fixed.

Still wouldnt have a clue wats wrong with th fuel gaugge.it works sumtimes but hardly ever..if i put like 50$ gas in it works then stops after a bit.

Yeh loosend the accel cable its still hard but ill get used to it

Cheers

To check fuel gauge:

Under the back seat is an access plate, lift seat - unscrew plate for access to the fuel sender. 3 wires in the plug on the sender from memory - brown is earth, one wire for gauge & one wire for low fuel light -cant remember what colours they are.

When the gauge is NOT working test by: - disconnect plug, turn ign on, bridge one of the other 2 wires at a time to the earth wire ( with a split pin or similar)- one should bring the low fuel light on, the other should make the gauge go up to full.

If it does the sender is faulty, if it doesn't it is a wiring or gauge issue - more likely gauge.

If sender ok , then to prove gauge fault you need to remove dash cluster & try earthing the same wire you were checking at the sender at the back of the dash - if no go there then is a dash fault.

From memory the only wiring harness plug between gauge & sender is drivers side rear under seat.

If you find either required, I can supply replacements, listed on trademe 64271907 -dash or 64404806 -sender

Hope this helps

Cheers Grant

Easiest thing to do is take it to a BMW Workshop and get them to scan it and see what the deal is.

Hi, It will need fixing as by law if fitted it must work & nowadays it would be very remiss & unusual for a WOF inspector not to be aware of checking the operation of -same with ABS warning light. This particually the case on a late model car that is expected to have these features.

As for checking & fixing, it doesn't require BMW to fix but any good workshop or auto sparky with a decent scanner will be able to talk to it & confirm the fault, this is the ONLY real way to confirm the problem as there are several different diagnostic parameters within the system that will cause the light to stay on. To try & work it out without would be total guess work.

If something within the system has been disturbed it may well just need resetting - a 2 minute job with a scanner.

Depending on the fault it wont necessarily cost you a heap to fix -maybe as cheap as a scanner fee to reset.

Hope this helps

Grant

I have a 1999 E39 540 Auto, Recently it is surging at low rev's, has anyone encountered this and have any idea of the cause. On occasion at low revs it can also be quite clunkey changing gear.

Also can anyone recommend a Wellington based garage other Shelly's who can see what faults codes are in the system and who can perform a good tune.

Gidday, Haven't struck it, but first step - see any decent sparky or trans specialist that has a scanner to talk to it.

Would asume the back's the same, but I haven't done one. Looks like it has a joiner in each bottom corner, ease these out and the insert should out as well then it's the same as the front.

WARNING!! Be very careful with front screen as it is laminated & will break very easily -I know- I broke one recently.

Before attempting to remove, let the glass & rubber warm in the sun -the rubber is much more plyable then & Im told the glass is less brittle.

As stated - remove bead insert & start by easing out from a top corner taking care not to put pressure in one spot of the glass.

Once part of the glass is freed it will come out easily.

Safer bet if it is not wanted is to sacrifice the rubber by cutting along with a stanley knife.

Rear screen same procedure but no real risk of breaking as it is only toughened glass which is nowhere near as easy to break as laminated.

Good Luck!!

sweet would you sell it for $20 & does this have any think to do with central locking??

Yea OK 20 bucks -will ammend the price, & no, nothing to do with c/locking -that is controlled by a module at the bottom of the drivers side kick panel aperture. Does your c/locking not work? -These modules can fail -I have sold a few.

When you retension it, how tight is right?

should have also confirmed- rotate engine by hand in clockwise direction (normal engine rotation).

Cant quite remember whether there is a spring on the tensioner, if there is that predefines the tension otherwise not absolutely sure of specs but I would allow about a 5mm deflection in the belt.

I have just finenshed the interior of my car and just have a few maintainance things to do to the engine, one thing being the timing belt. I have no previous info on the car (as it was repo'ed) so I want to do the belt just to be safe. I have had a look around the site but can't find much info about the actual steps involved in the job. How hard is it, I have a reasonable mechanical knowledge and am willing to give most things a go but if I stuff it up, the engine will be pretty stuffed to. Has anyone got any experience with this kinda stuff, any help would be much appreciated.

Cheer,

James

James

A realitively straight forward job -Remove radiator, auxillary belts, fan assy, crank pulley, distributor if motronic, timing cover, would recommend replacing the belt tensioner at the same time. Align timing marks on crank & cam shafts, slacken tensioner, remove & replace belt & tensioner, make sure timing marks still aligned, tension belt with tensioner & lock, rotate crankshaft 2 full turns & confirm both marks still alighned, recheck belt tension & reassemble.

Although straight forward, If not confident I would seek help -youré right if you get it wrong its a sad story.

Good luck!

Grant

As Gus says, that bit (your idle control valve) normally buzzes.

Check all contacts to your starter and battery and earth strap. Failing which, go to a decent auto sparky and get his opinion...

Hi again

All above true, if you do confirm crook starter I have a serviced unit listed on Trademe auction 62731196

That box is part of the check system, the panel above the rear view mirror. I have several spare, that is if I can find one..

Thats the lamp failure control module, - I have 1 listed on Trademe auction 62956215 if interested

Cheers

Would you be kind enough to point out where the starter motor is?

Its a cylinderical unit (not shown in pic) but sits at about the head of the 8th arrow facing the ring gear teeth in the pic.

I need to replace my front door speakers (vibrate with bass), two options

1. Do it myself, I have details on removing door panels but they don't mention anything special needing to be done for airbags, has anyone any experiences in doing this.

2. Get a sound shop to do it - can anyone recommend a sound shop in Wellington that is reasonably priced, knows their stuff and experienced with Beemers particularly and E39

Gidday Huttey

Have had doors apart in my E39 previously, & from memory air bag assy would not need touching to replace the speakers - bass speaker is mounted in it's own plastic enclosure behind the trim, & from memory is a custom fit unit so some adaptation may be required to retrofit another unit in it's place.

You may want to check that theres not something loose in there vibrating before going to the trouble of replacing though.

If replacement required -would be easy enough to do yourself with a suitable replacement speaker.

Hope this helps Cheers