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hotwire

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Posts posted by hotwire

  1. Posted · Report reply

    first post on bimmersport nz, didn't know there was a local bimmer forum till yesterday :)

    my '96 318is passenger door lock has completely died. the central locking is controlled by a Mongoose M60C alarm which works fine except for that door, i can't even push the lock up and down from the inside.

    The door had a brand new actuator installed 3 months ago to fix an intermittant fault like this and it seemed to help for a bit, but then progressively got worse and now its gone, have to lock it from the outside and just leave it. i'm told its not the actuator but the lock assembly is stuffed.... is this major like it sounds..?

    Hi, Welcome to the site. Hard to say, is the lock hard to turn from the key? (outside) Probably best to remove the actuator, leave wired & try the locking operation - confirm whether actuator works with no load. If so it will be something awol in the latch mechanism - particually if you still cant push the inside lock down with the actuator out.

    All you can do then is pull the latch assy out & check for fault.

    Good luck

  2. Posted · Report reply

    Again welcome to the site. As already mentioned - E39's regarded as one of the best Beemers produced. Also as said - I wouldn't go for a 2.0 litre - big car for that engine to push. My jap 525 (badged 523 as NZ new variant but still 2.5L engine) I find is quite adequate on power delivery/ fuel economy -have had as low as 7l/100k (with a concerted effort for an exercise) but usual 8-9 with normal driving. Yes bigger engines always nice (540i car is brilliant) but economy certainly falls away overall. If I was replacing I might be tempted on a 530 but for no specfic reason but for slight power increase. Be aware also that the V8's are not generally regarded as being as sharp handling/ steering as the sixes due to the extra engine weight & the fact they use recirculating ball steering box rather than a rack as in the sixes.

    Hope I don't add confusion!

  3. Posted · Report reply

    Mark As Will said - dist cap at front of engine in motronic, also look for the Black round Diagnostic plug top of engine L/H side towards front - L jetronic had the smaller D shaped plug with red cover in the same place. As also said - all F/L cars (plastic bumper) are motronic

  4. Posted · Report reply

    The switching for locking/ unlocking of doors from the boot is controlled by a circuit in the boot lock motor itself so in that case it obviously has a motor fitted already. This fault would indicate a faulty actuator within the unit itself. As already said - they do fail.

    Can supply a replacement if required, PM or 027 6146607

    Cheers

  5. Posted · Report reply

    As Carl said - possibly injectors leaking & semi flooding, or faulty engine management temp sensor simulating cold engine & causing computer to overfuel the engine.

    Not starter if engine cranks normally

    Unlikely to be pump or the car would not start but do listen for the initial prime when you turn the key on.

    320's dont have a cold start injector/thermo time switch.

    Unlikely to be HT leads but could possibly be tired plugs but they more likely would cause a cold start issue.

  7. Posted · Report reply

    Firstly check from passenger door lock - if key will fit. Central locking operates from both doors & boot. Second - check for blown fuse - fuse 27. Thirdly check door lock control module, located behind trim in bottom of drivers kick panel - two screws & mounted under a plastic panel. Remove & check wiring plug connections for corrosion etc. - Modules themselves do also fail.

    Failing that - see an auto sparky. No, not possible to open from inside from memory.

    I can help with any parts you require.

    If successful - GET a key cut for the boot also

    Good luck

    Grant

  10. Posted · Report reply

    Hi Brent,

    If completely empty -(hard to tell without gauges or cracking a line), then just unbolt the unit & mounting bracket as required. You can disconnect hoses & remove them at the firewall also.

    Yes, you may as well remove condenser & receiver/drier as well as it is of no use without the rest of the system.

    If still gas in the system - the (technically correct) way is to have it professionally removed before cracking the system although a lot of people wouldn't bother.

    As to whether worthwhile or not? - hard to say, not a lot of extra weight & a pain to resurect if wanted in future. minimal drag on engine when not engauged, your call really.

  15. Posted · Report reply

    Not necessarily solenoid or contacts at all, -common in other starter configurations but not this type - this is the most common misdiagnosis of this complaint. could also be voltage drop to it in the energiser circuit OR worn brushes in the starter - the latter being the most likely of all.

  19. Posted · Report reply

    Quite a few good alarms out there, personally I would stick with Mongoose or Dynatron - both have good reliabilty & good back up - a lot of others dont.

    Remember that ANY alarm is only as good as the install & there are a lot of cowboys out there - believe me - I have seen it all.

    Check NZ Security Association website - automotive security - they have a list of "standards approved" alarms & their star rating, 1 being least & 5 highest, also a list of approved installers ( I am one) in each area. Insurance companies are slowly coming on board with this. Designed to weed out the cowboys & get a more consistant fitting of products.

    Grant

  22. Posted · Report reply

    If you dont want to break the bank then go with the KYB, I have fitted them at work to E36's & they are quite ok for a middle of the road shock, as said erlier - DONT go Monroe - they are crap on Beemers - leave them for the Fords & Holdens.

  23. Posted · Report reply

    As I said, K8 has nothing to do with central locking but is the fog light relay.

    The fact that it energises when plugged back indicates that it is getting switched to earth, this is unlikely to be the car at fault as the winding circuit earthes via fog & headlight switches when they are turned on.

    Rather I suspect as I mentioned previously that the wrong relay is installed in K8 space. If that is the case it will cause that relay to stay engaged as the pin layout is different.

    To check, remove relay & identify terminal layout in relation to numbers beside each one, remove another from the group of six & compare layout - they should be the same, look for a difference in 30 & 86 positions in the two units.

    Otherwise suggest you see an auto sparky in your neck of the woods.

    Good luck

    Grant

  24. Posted · Edited by hotwire · Report reply

    May not be the relay itself at fault, you need to confirm as to whether it is the relay contacts sticking - if so then yes faulty relay.

    Unplug the relay then refit - if it clicks when refitting then it is being triggered so it is not that at fault but is being switched on.

    K8 relay is for fog lights - also fuses 29 & 30, Cental locking nothing to do with that circuit -it is fuse 27 & controlled by the locking module, located inside bottom of drivers kick panel under a plastic cover, secured with 3 screws. These modules do fail, can stay on & burn out all locking motors.

    Be aware that most of the relays in the car -although with same terminal layout as standard, do have a different terminal configuration which can catch you out. Could well be the problem with K8

    I can supply any parts you find you require.

    Cheers Grant

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