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M3AN

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Posts posted by M3AN


  1. Hi Felo and welcome.

    Since you've already paid a lot for a tune, have you spoken to the people that did it? I wonder if they can return it to stock so you can check for, and fix any other problems with the car, and then reinstall the performance tune? That's not a lot of work (for them) and since you've already paid for the tune perhaps they might just charge you labour only? I think it's worth asking them.

    Do report back on your progress. 👍


  2. 23 minutes ago, Jacko said:

    LVVTA standard - New belts.

     

    Je ne comprends pas.

    Under what circumstances do you need new belts? Are you saying that any replacement seat triggers new belts? And how can they tell if your belts are new, if they're the same as the old ones?


  3. 4 hours ago, Jacko said:

    Having to drop $900 on two new front seatbelts to meet LVVTA standards with aftermarket seats, to replace your perfect condition existing seatbelts which are exactly the fekcen same. 

    Ouch! Why didn't your existing ones qualify?


  4. I suspect it's a N52MHP where the "M" stands for magic, you almost certainly have one of these engines when you simply know it has 300hp, mainly because you've done all the work on it yourself, and you know it's faster than some of the others you've seen on the internet.

    Looks like a reasonable car with a questionable history, if you got away with a new engine and/or potentially some electronics there could be some value in it. I suspect however the current owner knows it's not economical to repair.

    • Like 1
    • Haha 2

  5. 43 minutes ago, Spinner99 said:

    ...

    To be fair I just looked it up I bought it in 2010, and I can't test if it's mint or a dud so I'll re price it accordingly.

    As above, unless it's visibly leaking (and it doesn't appear to be) then it's worth at least $250, looks to me to be a $275+ rack, I wouldn't let it go for much less. It's a HUGE upgrade for E36's so don't let it go for nothing, $200 minimum.


  6. 5 hours ago, gofaster said:

    Yeah could probably move to an auto for a daily now, have other manual cars for the fun stuff.

    I hesitated, was a manual-only guy, happy with the auto for a daily now, have the M3 for manual fun, I've gained a lot and lost nothing important.

     

    • Like 2

  7. A custom tune is not practical without a dyno, road tuning it is not economically feasible, how else could you measure it?

    If anyone claims they can give you a custom tune for your car ask them how they measure the benefits of their work.

    Edit: these engine are well known, the shelf tunes that are out there are probably as good as you can expect now, whether it's 270 or 280 horsepower really doesn't matter, just use somebody competent.

    Whatever you do, unless you nanny it, your fuel economy will go to sh*t with a performance tune, be prepared.

    • Thanks 1

  8. 1 hour ago, ciderbeard said:

    Before and after, need to go out for a good drive now on the new wheels / tires.

    now that you can see the callipers I feel a strange desire for beefier better looking ones.

    First time driving it on non run flats and maybe it’s just placebo but it feels so much less harsh and more comfortable.

    Fantastic aesthetic improvement!

    And no, go-flats are much more comfortable, it's no placebo.

    • Like 1

  9. 25 minutes ago, ciderbeard said:

    Anyone do ecu flashes for these cars?  Is that a thing?

    Yes, it's a thing, ~280hp is the standard claim, I couldn't tell you where to get it done though I'm afraid. My auto box has also been flashed and it's feral in sport mode. 

    • Thanks 1

  10. 32 minutes ago, ciderbeard said:

    what's the thoughts on an intake upgrade like GruppeM or similar?  Can we source anything in NZ?

    Well, they look great but cost thousands, and the BMWP version is unobtanium. You'd not feel any power gains, they'd be marginal at best.

    The stock airbox is pretty good, replace the pipe and sound generator with a Mishimoto silicon hose or equivalent and drop in a K&N or BMC filter and you're probably sorted, all for less than $250.

    • Thanks 1

  11. Yes, and V8 Supercars also run a square setup, not because it's better but because it's a spec. Formula 1 cars (and all formula cars actually) run staggered and that's for a reason.

    A staggered setup does not increase understeer, that's a measurable fact. If you have more rear traction you can go faster, choosing when to do so, and getting that choice right, is what makes a quick driver. A quick driver will always be faster in a RWD car on a staggered setup.

     


  12. 4 hours ago, ciderbeard said:

    Took the car in for the first proper service in March and finally got an estimate back today from what they think needs doing.  The wallet isn't going to like it. I took it to Eurosurgeon and I didn't have the best experience.  I had to hound them to get any info, never spoke to anyone who worked on it just the receptionist gave me a vague recap from the mechanic and then a couple months later after hounding I get this estimate.  I am trying to be understanding with the disruptions from covid etc might just be a rough time.  Anyone had good experiences with them or recommend someone else to try out west or west central?  After the initial experience I'm a little cautious about taking the car in for work.  Maybe its just a struggle at all mechanics at the moment?

    I have no recommendations other than don't take it to a place you're not happy with. Some comments on the quote:

    • They've not (explicitly) included the cost of oil, that seems like an oversight.
    • Filter and plugs, probably the easiest thing you can do DIY, although that's not a silly price
    • Do not pay this for castor bushes and labour, all in it's a $300 job (parts and labour) MAX
    • OFH and cam cover gasket always need doing but the labour costs are silly, it's a 3h job only
    • The "transmission bundle" at $800 is probably good value, but only if yours is leaking excessively

    BM Workshop are west'ish, they used to be great but I haven't used them for years, they might be worth asking for the same work, at least to get a comparison.

    2 hours ago, Jacko said:

    ...and when loaded up in a corner it just makes for understeer as the fronts got less meat than the rear. (despite looking cool)

    You do realise this is a fallacy right? The perceived understeer may increase but actual understeer, i.e. the load at which the fronts will break grip, remains exactly the same. Adding more traction at the rear can push the fronts harder but they'll still hold on to the same point. e.g. a 225/245 setup will have exactly the same amount of understeer as a 225/255 setup (or 225/275 for that matter) because it has exactly the same amount of front grip. Having more rear traction may induce understeer earlier but that only because it's pushing harder (i.e. going faster). This is managed by the right foot.

    On a RWD car, more rear tyre is always an advantage unless you live in perpetual monsoon territory.

    FWIW, I can easily break traction with 255's on the rear of my 130i with a 280hp tune and it's an auto with an LSD. I consider anything less as inadequate.

     

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