djs325

Feedback so far has been very positive. The rotors show minimal signs of wear after several days of track abuse. The thermal paint has been a great indicator of who's really using their brakes. In conjunction with PFC06 compound pads, the package is very consistent and reliable - total axle cost quite reasonable! The new slot pattern is also quite nice, as it means you don't have left and right hand rotors; and the slots don't go all the way to the edge, which prolongs life. Unfortunately in Australia, buying genuine BMW rotors from the dealership is more expensive than the DBAs. A$360 a pair from me, which is much less than an equivalent 4000 series for any other model from other suppliers. As an added observation, we're using 325i based cars that build up a more speed between corners than the 318i/320i series cars, so would have to use more brake more often.

Well guys, they're all gone now. Might be able to get my hands on a few more, but the group buy price has now ended. Would have thought that at least ONE NZ competitor would have tried these.

Really? No interest? Shame. Will have to wait until the currency exchange is not as sh*te.

They came out looking pretty good, and response has been fantastic to these new rotors. The first batch of 50 is all sold out, might be able to get my hands on some more if demand is there. Please let me know.

Just to let you guys know, the batch finally came out after a few hiccups. There are only a few rotors left, and they'll probably get sold this week. Worked out at A$380 pair plus shipping, given the sh*t state of your exchange rate for imports, this is about $515 plus shipping. Look forward to letting you know how they work out (most will be using PFC06 pads).

PFC06 Pads. 0278.06.17.44 front 0279.06.16.44 rear. DBA Rotors. DBA679SL/SR front DBA671SL/SR rear. Braided lines are a good start. Highly recommend cooling ducting & ducted backing plates. If you have ATE calipers on the front, I would recommend solid slide guides, stainless pistons, new seals & nipples - all of which are available from BimmerWorld in the USA, though there may be some locals who bring stuff in. www.bimmerworld.com

I machined my own one out of 6061, no complaints, but it's in a race car with stiff suspension anyway...

Yes, there is the small issue of your dollar being quite sh*t right now. I remember back when it was basically a GST calculation - add 10% and she's sorted! Will let you guys know how we find them!

To be honest I thought there would at least be some questions by now - no one is interested?

Good news guys - the batch just got signed off last week, so you'll need to get organised soon!

Hey guys, thought I'd let you in on a deal I've been working on for some time now. DBA doesn't currently make a 4000 series version (better vents, better iron etc etc etc) of the E30 325/318 vented front rotor. I've been working to change that. OK - the details: DBA 4000 Series **Key Features** -Heavy duty performance direct replacement disc rotor -Thermo-Graphic paint markings for temperature monitoring -Thermal Stability Profiling (TSP) enhances the microstructure of the disc rotor and provides better overall braking performance -Rapidly expels friction gases and minimises brake fade -Direct fit replacement part no modifications required This version will be the 6x6 Wiper-Slot version, similar to this rotor shown below: The part numbers will be DBA4679SL (left hand slotted) and DBA4679SR (right hand slotted). DBA will be remodeling the original Australia E30 rotor casting for the 4000 series features. These rotors will be cast and machined in Australia at DBA's factory. BDA Motorsport (Brake Distributors Australia) in Arundel/Gold-Coast in QLD will be acting as the agent for these. Trevor runs a fantastic brake/clutch/suspension specialty business and has helped me greatly over the last 2 years. Here's the blurb from their website: BDA Motorsport Currently, pricing will be A$175 per rotor, so budget on A$350 per PAIR. Trevor can arrange freight around Australia for A$20 a pair, which is an excellent deal -> A$370 delivered. Freight to NZ is unknown at this time, but if you are interested then please contact Trevor. Trevor has informed me that he needs orders for 50 rotors or 25 pairs. He will require a deposit in good faith. I have already committed to buy the first 10 rotors. This means that we need orders for 20 pairs. Once we have 50 ordered and deposited for, DBA will cast, treat, machine, paint, pack and ship the rotors. It should be 3-4 weeks once the target (50) has been reached and the order to DBA is placed. If you could be so kind as to contact Trevor via his website or phone call, and tell him that you are after the DBA 4000 for BMW E30s Group Buy, that would be fantastic. This is virtually a carbon copy of my post on the thread on ECCA, but please let me know if anyone is interested in these. I should mention that these discs meet the requirements for the BMW Race Driver Series E30 Class, as they are of one-piece steel construction and dimensions 260x22mm.

Not sure, but they worked a treat in the rear end of the E30 I raced at Phillip Island this weekend! Really good control, could make tiny adjustments to throttle and steering to maximise corner speed. You would presume they're harsher than 75, also for driveline noise tranmission as well.

The Goodridge sets list a 4-line (non-ABS) and 6-line (ABS). Essentially the 4-line is for cars with drum rear brakes (a lot more cars in the UK came with drum rears) and the 6-line is for disc brake rears. Goodridge part number: SBW0012-6 (6 Hose)

+1 for Powerflex, try ordering from BimmerWorld (they are the US Powerflex distributors as well). You have a choice of regular (70-75A) or race (90A Hardness) versions of those bushes.

AST-USA FTW. A bit exxy bro, but doable. Why do you want to go to coil-over rears? Not really necessary and not the best thing to do with un-reinforced strut towers.

Thanks for the confirmation - I will mention it to my fellow E30 Racers on this side of the pond!

Are these a single-piece, two-piece, or three-piece wheel? I believe I saw (somewhere) that the bolt heads are cast? Would hope they are single-piece to meet the E30 requirements: A bit heavy for my liking at 8.8kg; compared to the ~6.0kg Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.3; though these basketweaves are excellent value at only NZ$179...

That's cool; any ideas how much each rim weighs? It looks like you had some 'interesting' delays from your manfacturer; the other benefit with the TDs is that there is a large supply from which to draw on, without having to wait for a production run. Not trying to put your wheels down - I'm still a sucker for a nice set of basketweaves!

Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.3 from the US; many places to get them for around US$110 - I would highly recommend BimmerWorld.com - they have all the right measurements (ET25, 57.1mm Centre Bore, 4x100, 7Jx15) to suit an NZ E30 Race Series car. Plenty of guys in the US SpecE30 and OZ E30 Racing use them as well. Shipping is approx US$250 per pair via USPS Priority Mail International, so budget just under US$1000 for 4 wheels shipped. Steer clear of the D-Force LTW5; they aren't as tough as the Team Dynamics.

Performance Friction Carbon Metallic or Z-Rated would offer more performance and less dust than OEM. Direct fitment for your E36/E46.

E30 selector rods normally come in 2 different lengths, 187mm (pin centre to centre) or 198mm. 187 is what I have seen on most Getrag 260 with aluminium shift arm (aka shift console, that bolts to top of back of gearbox and carries shift lever pivot bearing).

This happens a lot with old rotor bolts. Get a small cold chisel and/or a centre punch, and carve a slot into the bolt head, then rotate it gently with some penetrating lubricant (WD40, Penetrene etc) to assist. Go and get some new ones from the dealer - if you don't, the rotor will rotate slightly around the wheel bearing face and grind against the wheel bolts/studs. This will cause problems down the track that are easily avoided with a couple of $2 parts.

Was going to quote that site as well, excellent comparison between the different M20 2.5/2.7 pistons.

Just a quick follow up, are you talking about: A- Removing the driveshaft assembly that runs from the differential housing into the trailing arm drive flange, OR B- Removing the drive flange from the trailing arm. If A, then easiest to unbolt the 6 socket head bolts from the differential flanges and the large 30mm nut on the end of the driveshaft whilst the car is on the ground or loaded up. I needed to turn down a 30mm socket on the lathe to get it onto the driveshaft nut. Once that nut was undone, I liberally sprayed the driveshaft tip with penetrating lubricant, and from the back side as well. After a few applications and some patience, I then used a wooden dowel and a large hammer to top out the driveshaft. Not too painful. If B, then you're in trouble. My solution to this problem was the remove the driveshaft as per 'A' above, then remove the rear axle assembly (subframe, trailing arms and differential). Once this was out, I disconnected the trailing arms from the subframe, removed all the components from the trailing arm, and then machined up some specifically sized dowels to push out the driveshaft flanges. This was accomplished with much help from the other guys at TAFE, lots of positioning aids, and a many tonne hydraulic press. This process allowed me to replace the rear wheel bearings and circlips, which eliminated a lot of problems from the rear end.

The kits from Lee (Massive Brakes) are a good package given the price, which is reasonable given that everything is brand new, not second hand Nissan/Volvo/Mazda/Subaru calipers. That said, an E30 with an upsized master cylinder (25mm from an E32, available as a kit from BimmerWorld), good fluid, braided lines, rebuilt calipers, the right pads, and good rotors will stop very well indeed. Easier to put better wheels and tyres on the car to achieve better braking performance as well.