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|ncary

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Posts posted by |ncary


  1. Nice nice nice nice!

    Thinking about doing the same thing with the sunroof, it's totally pointless. Probably get some very very dark perspex cut to shape and sealed in place.

    The A/C pump weighs 13KG! Insane eh. (Bathroom scales, out of last e30) Plus the rad and piping, good weight to lose.

    Are you looking at a Fi-glass bonnet? If not cut a nice big hole in it, just behind the rad, cooling effects it makes are substantial. Fill in with a fi-glass grill or something to your liking.

    :D Did I mention Nice!


  2. From hours and hours of forum research and some sounds advice from experienced folk: if you are having crunchy shifts, get 2 litres of Kerosene or Meths, warm the car up, get the back wheels off the ground, empty out the old fluid, but 1 litre of your kerrrro or meths in and start the car and 'drive' it for 5 mins, going through all the gears. Fluid should come out black. Repeat with second litre. Then let that drain out for half and hour and add MTL (2 bottles needed)

    It made all my shifting hassles dissappear. Amazing to say the least. No more crunching from 3rd to 2nd at high revs.

    Go for it.


  3. 75W90 for the Diff? And it already has LSD additive? Because I was looking for a redline bottle which had LSD on it or something to show it's for LSD lol.

    Read the back of that bottle and it should talk about how it helps out LSD's.

    This one actually:

    http://www.redlineoil.com/products_gearlub...mp;categoryID=6

    The other 75W90 is not for LSD's.

    This one:

    http://www.redlineoil.com/products_gearlub...mp;categoryID=6


  4. I was having terrible syncro problems from 2-3rd and from 3-2nd gear. Redline MTL went in with a Kerosene flush before-hand and it took 6 weeks, but now there are no issues at all. One more oil change now and it will be great for thousands of hard k's.

    Oh and make sure you put LSD designed fluid in the LSD. Redline do a LSD additive that comes in a little bottle, but their diff oils have the additive anyway, and full syn, so win win win.


  5. +1 to that, all seem a bit queer

    can't even get it into drive why is he on a car show..

    Might have been the fact that he drove Formula and Touring cars, he's the best driver out of all those car shows, and so what he says about a cars handling means something, unlike the top gear guys who play around, then get in a really really fast car, like the Caparo T1, and scare themselves down the straights, lock up into the corner, and understeer all the way round trying to regain the speed, and then give the car a poor review, 'BUT IT'SH FAST' Clarkson will say.

    Why Mitsi gave 5th Gear an Auto Evo is the real Question.


  6. The ball joint? You can be responsible and get a ball joint fork, and it works well, Orrrrrrr..

    Get your hammer and wack that bolt sideways a few times to loosen it up first and then pound it out. Protect the threads with whatever you have laying around ha. Replacing the whole control arm is the usual thing to do, much less hassel and then you've done the ball joints on the chassis as well :thumbsup:


  7. yes standstart, it was 1st 2nd then on the brakes a soon as i needed to grab third, the cones we had to stop in were only as long as the car not much margin 4 era (tyers inside the cones= pass) 3.64 diff

    10.9 is very slow for a 0-100! Was it a 0-100-0? I'm struggling to make sence of what you are saying :D


  8. To answer your question about the offset bushings in the control arm lolliepops: They push the front wheel out and furthur forward, both really good things. You install them with the holes in the bushings towards the inside of the car.

    For the past year I've been doing hours and hours of suspension research for E30's. Soon I'll be purchasing it. If anyone knows Stucks car, from bimmerforums and e30tech, that'll be very similar to what I'm getting. No more rubber anywhere in the suspension yay!

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