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Posts posted by Allanw
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Hahaha! It wouldn't surprise me if you didn't misunderstand, but the dealer had it wrong... They should make it VERY clear the key needs cutting, or at least do it on arrival.
Anytime I've tried to order key/lock related parts, the dealers I tried were confused or simply trying to sell me the wrong parts - both E39 and E30. (Actually, often for ANY parts they don't understand!)
Paul at Milland sorted it out correctly and cheaper from a German BMW supplier - still genuine parts. The dealer wanted the paint code to order a new (key matched) lock barrel mechanism for our E39, Paul didn't need it and it arrived correct ? The dealer was trying to sell me a handle/latch/lock mechanism complete, instead of just the lock barrel I was requesting ?. They key was also over NZ$100 cheaper from Paul, for the E39 - just needed the remote synched, as normal.
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The 1972 Beetle I sold last year, had a spare tyre from 1972 Still had the nobbies on it!
It turned out to be a really advanced tyre: It was a run-flat! Even when it was fully deflated, it was hard enough to hold the car up
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If it was truly a Man's world; Tank ownership would be so much more accessible than it is!
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I don't know how different the 220 and 250G are, but I had the 250G in our old E39 525i.
The 250G DOES suffer from detent problems (Which i could free up, by repeatedly using the plane that caused the problem; while the trans was hot just push/pull the lever side to side while it was hot and free, and it usually kept it loose for months, even when cold).
In that trans, I changed the oil from what I assumed was the factory fill to Royal Purple Synchromax and it made a huge difference - really softened up the changes, but didn't slow the syncros down so much you couldn't shift fast. I changed it at under 120K kms, and it was still doing ok at 170+ when we sold it recently. It's not a super smooth box anyway, though...
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1 hour ago, m325i said:That is so cool. Love it.
Agree.
Needs mudflaps though
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1 hour ago, SRacin said:BMW number of current key 6955749. CHCH bmw supersedes to 6955749. $444 inc ex Germany. "
Talk to Paul at Milland.co.nz
He got my BMW key from Germany for my E39 for more than $100 cheaper than an NZ dealer at the time (probably 5 or 6 years ago). Plus He generally knows what I'm talking about - The dealers usually try to sell me the wrong part when I have phoned them - one was the new drivers door lock insert: Dealer kept saying they had to order it colour coded, and I kept explaining it had no paint on it... Paul just ordered it, and it was correct!
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9 hours ago, dirtydoogle said:Would have to be plate and tagged if that was the case?
There is one around that is a 318is shell, with all the M3 gear fitted, but it was certed for it, but registered as an M3......
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7 hours ago, gjm said:But I'd have to make Andrew help me convert it into a ute!
Besides... I'd rather have the Multipla 600 ?
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I had a Camry as a work car (It came with anti-depressants in the glovebox), and Dad still had his E30. From the respective dealers, the brake pads were DOUBLE the price at Toyota!
The main thing I find with Euro cars, is there is generally a decent quality aftermarket part at a decent price, available somewhere - just like the adjusters mentioned above. With Jap stuff, you'll often find there isn't an alternative for little oddball bits, and genuine is EXPENSIVE.
A workmate paid $750 for a blower motor for his Surf... AFTER the parts guys arranged a special price for him. He couldn't find the correct one anywhere online, and there is about 6 different ones!
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4 hours ago, E30 325i Rag-Top said:if you think BMW Original Parts are expensive, Toyota can take things to another level for the less common stuff. And that was even with a hefty discount!!
Actually - they're not cheap for the common stuff either!
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It's NOT much like project Binky at all... but I still enjoy it.
Everyone loves a build thread
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^ WANT!
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2 hours ago, Olaf said:Pictures or this did not happen and you clearly wrote this while dreaming!
He has to have the internet delivered in little boxes by the rural postie, so photos take days to come in
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If you had a scooter before, and are planning to do lots of short trips in town (like you would on a scooter?) a diesel is the last thing you want.
You sound quite conscious of the repairs, and if you are I'd suggest buying something VERY different for that money. A common rail diesel turbo is a far more complicated car than SOME other options, and there can be eye-watering expensive repairs.
What do you really want from a car? and what sort of use will it get?
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https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCUOfupxqzuqSL_rfzA3PENQ
It's a bit like Project Binky... Bahahahaha!!!!! ?
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17 hours ago, Olaf said:... he clearly hadn't been trained about the dangers of acetylene, or even welding.
Other news stories report he "was a welder by trade".
There is NO excuse for someone who is even a little familar with gas welding and a "welder by trade", even if purely electric, should have some familiarity with how to avoid explosions of many kinds. A complete numpty who never set fire to anything as a kid, may have some excuse.... but a welder?!?!?!
Surely, the first thought would be "Hey, B.O.C. -- they're a big company who like to sell welding stuff - Why haven't they done this already?"
Besides that, how was ever going to get a decent flame with it - I've never used an oxy-acetylene set that didn't require at least a small amount of fine adjustment to get the the required flame type, flame temperature and flame size....
I'm NOT a good welder, but I pretend sometimes. Besides my gasless MIG, I have a mate who can weld (Thanks aja540i! ) and I have an LPG/Oxygen torch for light brazing. I made sure to get an LPG safe regulator, I have the correct LPG hose, with a flame arrestor thingee, and the oxygen comes from an oxygen concentrator. It didn't cost that much to set up properly.
I'm still very careful of the setup and make sure I always have my safety jandals shined with non-exploding boot polish.
It's not actually THAT hard to be safe with this stuff...
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Thank you, Roald Dahl?
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driveshaft.co.nz did my Touran one - the guy was SUPER helpful and is incredibly particular ?
Penrose based now.
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7 hours ago, E30 325i Rag-Top said:Weird spec as well, 316i with leather... and bugger all other options added.
And AC - you missed the AC - very weirdly specced... if you turn on the AC, can it still move? I suppose it's manual, so you can change down a gear or two and hope for the best...
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I got all 4 rotors for our old 525i from Micks Garage online. At the time, it was NZ$210 for all 4, including the shipping. They weren't the cheapest one on there either.... They were Mintex discs, but I got pads elsewhere.
Look for places outside the US - the shipping from the US is stupid.
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18 hours ago, Young Thrash Driver said:the clutch in the 525i is just fine so that can wait for another weekend.
You only have to let the pedal out about 1.5 metres, before the bite point, and pressing it in 3mm makes it slip..... prolly get another 100,000 out of it...
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Probably coming up due it's second set of big ends?
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I'd have thought you'd fit it over the OUTside.
About 90 degrees around from where you have it. The narrow part of the clip protrudes INto the slots and holds on to the inner part (not in your picture)
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If you change the address of one car, it changes them all.... Mum changed the address for the Model A to theirs, because that's where it is stored - ALL my cars changed to their address too, because all the cars are in my name.
I had to go and change them all back!
Import tax
in Off-Topic
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So a bunch of stuff I buy will be cheaper... especially if I make my order size "suitable".
Cool.
Also will arrive faster, because it doesn't need to have a rest at customs on the way thorugh.
Cool.
How will it work with Youshop? They aren't a retailer of Goods, but a service, and are ALREADY NZ based and ALREADY charge GST for their service... So the Goods theroretically aren't required to be taxed unless they are over NZ$1000, therefore having the tax collected by customs....