Allanw

9 hours ago, E30 325i Rag-Top said:

I probably can’t show proof of that much funds, but I could leave a child as collateral.

I think they'd want an asset, not a liability, for collateral.

If these are like the late E39 ones, the switch isn't a switch, its a genuine temp sensor.

The ECU reads the temp, and sends a pulse width modulated signal to the module - 12V may be the wrong thing to try ?

The fans have 12v all the time, and the module adjusts the fans speed based on the signal.

And they have been known to fail a bit ?

Zebra Manukau, in case it's of use. I haven't seen it, just saw the listing:

@Mikan Bummer...

Nah... it was heating up WAY before the gauge told you it was... the gauge reads "normal" from 75 through to 110 or 115 - then it shoots up pretty quick when the engine reaches about 125 or 130 and the gong happens... the gauge is a lying waste of time - although @Young Thrash Driver has my old E39 with the software re-calibrated, so it's a bit more realistic

Also, if the thermostat is dodgy, it may not have opened FAR enough - the flat plate on the back is supposed to block the return port on the rear, and force all the hot coolant into the radiator, and the return into the engine, instead of mixing the two while recirculating coolant in the block as it usually would at "normal" temperatures. The water pump losing drive to the impeller will do it too, as there isn't enough coolant movement.

This is exactly why I changed ours to a mechanical thermostat and re-calibrated the gauge - yours would have been getting hot for a little while before you saw it, then suddenly the gauges and gong go off when it's too late ?

At least you have a replacement option Maybe you should install a new supercharger while you're in there... the old one probably wasn't working anyway

Micks Garage 20% off TODAY - Waitangi Day

Use code WD20

https://www.micksgarage.com/

My niece is getting her full license in a couple of months, and has a VW New Beetle, early 2000's.

Her's is a 1.8 Turbo manual... but there are 2.slow ones too. They're a bit of fun, somewhat safe, but not really sporty.

Mmmmmm... Shiney!

Good greif, Man! Hope you're OK now.

I guess you were keeping that quiet after the chaos you caused   Fellow truckies might have come over to give you a slap... hahaha!

On 1/9/2019 at 4:56 PM, E30 325i Rag-Top said:

Except that within the VIN standard there is still the option to use the "0" designation for no MY code, which I believe is used unless the car is going to a market where the MY is mandatory information. So for example most NZ new vehicles would have that set for their MY.

Well, that's easy to fix! Make it mandatory.

BMW may do that, but VW don't.

The year is easy to look up, because it's right there is the VIN. It seems silly to leave it out, even if it's not a "requirement". Parts ordering would be easier - I know the BMW dealers struggled with getting me the right parts... though that was usually just because they had no idea what they were doing, or how a car worked...

NZ uses "Year of First Registration" which is stupid. It's possible for it to bare no relevance to the actual age of the car. There is no consistency anyway.

Common sense would say that using the "Model Year" as designated by the VIN descriptor would be appropriate.
 

WOW. Looks practically NEW!

On 12/17/2018 at 6:21 PM, aja540i said:

.... to be honest when you are using all the powers there are more important things to concentrate on!!

The Horizon is one of them... It sneaks up fast

My old E39 had a failed diaphragm.

I think it was from new though - at 115kms when I pulled it apart, it was as tight as new... but didn't actuate ?

Personally, I'd just buy a new one - If they first one lasted this long, the replacement probably will too.

Has it ever had the Vanos seals done? The 3.0 is reputedly more sensitive than the 2.5, and people in colder climates have reported actual stalling from it, after a relatively short period of cold idling.

With the engine cold, at idle, the M54 using the cam timing to heat the cats faster - once warmed up, or the revs climb, it has to move the cam timing to the "normal" run position, and can struggle to do so with cold/thick oil that isn't flowing too well, then leaking past the seals when it gets to the right place.

Our old manual 525i never got that bad, but it was initially super easy to stall when cold, but not after doing the seals - cold idle was smoother, it was much harder to stall, and it was much easier to control the transition from idle to driving - there was no sudden jump in revs.

While it may not be your problem, I would 100% recommend doing the Vanos seals in ANY M54 that doesn't have a history of them being replaced with better parts that BMW used. Our vanos pistons literally fell out of their bores upon disassembly, because the seals were so hard, they were hardly even touching the sides.

Nah... not like that... more

...errr...

...silly...

Fast people movers is where it at, now, anyway.

Holy Cow!

Glad you're OK now Glenn!

It's a very scary thing, seeing your vital fluids leaking out at such a rate that you don't know what's going to happen.

I know a bit how it feels after a massive post-tonsillectomy bleed a couple of years back.

Take it easy!!!! Don't go watching thriller movies, or driving in Auckland traffic - they both might might you pop again

Look after your wife - I bet shes STILL stressed/concerned

The windscreen is bonded in, and the seal is basically decorative.

The screen needs to come out to reseal properly, if it's the issue (shouldn't be!)

Do you have a sunroof? It's a more likely candidate and the water is running across the top of the headlining and escaping there.

On 11/8/2018 at 12:17 AM, emandru said:

and a service history that comprises of only WoF certificates.....

And not clean ones either.

2 hours ago, M3_Power said:

Fairly certain non of those cars above are EU4 standards so you won’t even be able to import and register them.

EU4 didn’t happen till March 2005 for the E46 M3 and that was LHD variants. I need to check but I believe EU4 did not happen for RHD till May 2005.

Possibly not relevant, but some VW models that were already EU4 for most of the world, were still produced in EU2 variants for S.A. and some other markets, like eastern europe and UAE etc. Potentially could apply to BMW models too, so it does pay to be very careful!

18 hours ago, hotwire said:

^^^^ This. Japan has humidity just like Singapore. I have seen, worked on plenty of ex Singapore BMW's that are no worse than from any other market.

Certainly the same can;t be said for Mercs - with their wiring degradation along with all the external trim plastics.

Don't bother listening to any of the stereotypes - none of them are true for every car. Look at each car on it's merits.

Mt Singapore E39 only had the usual electrical issues: ignition switch and ABS module failure.

I've seen some poked NZ cars too - on average NZers don't care any more than any other country.

Just find a good car, and buy on condition/milage/history/feeling - whatever floats your boat. Have it inspected by someone who really knows their stuff, or learn the stuff yourself.

Hahaha... And so back yard.

Could use a better exhaust.

1 hour ago, M3AN said:

Those old coupes with the M stripes are just so cool.

 

The opposite of an E46 318i with ///M stripes

So a bunch of stuff I buy will be cheaper... especially if I make my order size "suitable".

Cool.

Also will arrive faster, because it doesn't need to have a rest at customs on the way thorugh.

Cool.

How will it work with Youshop? They aren't a retailer of Goods, but a service, and are ALREADY NZ based and ALREADY charge GST for their service... So the Goods theroretically aren't required to be taxed unless they are over NZ$1000, therefore having the tax collected by customs....

Hahaha! It wouldn't surprise me if you didn't misunderstand, but the dealer had it wrong... They should make it VERY clear the key needs cutting, or at least do it on arrival.

Anytime I've tried to order key/lock related parts, the dealers I tried were confused or simply trying to sell me the wrong parts - both E39 and E30. (Actually, often for ANY parts they don't understand!)

Paul at Milland sorted it out correctly and cheaper from a German BMW supplier - still genuine parts. The dealer wanted the paint code to order a new (key matched) lock barrel mechanism for our E39, Paul didn't need it and it arrived correct ? The dealer was trying to sell me a handle/latch/lock mechanism complete, instead of just the lock barrel I was requesting ?. They key was also over NZ$100 cheaper from Paul, for the E39 - just needed the remote synched, as normal.