Jump to content

Allanw

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    3128

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    24

Posts posted by Allanw

  3. Posted · Report reply

    @DnR it was on an E39. They may or may not be the same???

    No drawings, Sorry!

    I used a new strut mount as a template, knocked out the studs and fitted bolts through from the bottom. The plate I made was 10mm aluminium, threaded for the bolts, so that locked it all together, then the nuts were fitted as normal to bolt it into the car. I fitted a strut brace too, purely because the E39's give the strut towers a hammering and like to mushroom them:

    6945697689_2c47ac4f1b.jpg

     

    For the rears, I believe I ordered the "rough road" version top mounts, and just fitted a spacer onto the longer studs on them... The rear spacers are made of that plastic sheet stuff.

    In my Touran, I got polyurethane spacers from ebay. all hardware included. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=tema4x4

    It had dropped 10mm after my VR6 + 4WD drivetrain conversion, and I wanted it a bit higher, so put claimed 20mm spacers in (they are less than 20mm thick to acheive the 20mm raise). The 4WD rear subframe already had to be spaced down 20mm, because of the the floor shape for the 6th and 7th seats, so it worked well with the geometry anyway. It's worked out about 10mm higher than my wifes standard one, as expected:

    aGaQ2uQ.jpg

  4. Posted · Report reply

    The spacers are a factory option for rough road. May or may no be fitted, depending on market and options.

    Also note that the ECS spacers listed above say they lift the car 20mm.... they are NOT 20mm thick, becasue they mount inboard, approx half way between the wheel and the inner suspension mount. I made 10mm spacers, and I think they raised it 20mm, maybe a little more.

    • Like 1

  5. Posted · Report reply

    On 4/18/2019 at 8:29 AM, M3AN said:

    Why does a CVT even have a gear shift?

     

    Because people really want manuals?B)

    Apparently it's so they "feel" like an autobox.

    And as far as Autos being a bit dopey - they always will be - They can never know what I'm thinking - I don't even know half the time!

     

    • Like 1

  6. Posted · Report reply

    2 hours ago, Young Thrash Driver said:

    New clutch, flywheel, shifter bushes, rear main seal and a bunch of gearbox seals in the 525i on the weekend. The car is transformed! Had some fun when I went to Coombes Johnson to pick up a seal, USD1.47 on FCPEuro and $58.90 at BMW

    When do we get pics of its new found glory?... not that we can see the clutch, but the bumper  and visible things?

    Have you got a phone that doesn't run on steam yet? :lol:

    I still have it on my profile avatar!

    • Haha 1

  8. Posted · Report reply

    On 4/10/2019 at 12:13 AM, BozzaFC said:

    And with only 150kms on the clock when this was done, I'm sure my vanos seals were in far better shape than others'.

    Good work! It makes a MASSIVE difference. Our manual 525i was REALLY easy to stall before they were done, but not after, and that mid range improvement is very obvious (maybe more so in a manual too)

    Regarding the 150kms though - at 115 kms, mine were so worn/hard, that the Vanos pistons dropped out under their own weight. Most M54's will have poked seals from much lower mileage/years. Yours have probably been poked for years already.

    The original BMW Orings were NOT the correct spec for the environment, and I'd be surprised if they weren't knackered after about 5 years, regardless of mileage. Always worth doing, from what I've seen.

     

    • Like 1

  9. Posted · Report reply

    11 hours ago, Young Thrash Driver said:

    Also, @Allanw will be pleased to know- the clutch has fiiiinally started slipping! Woohoo!

    Wow... no fire at least...

    You've got a LOT longer out of that clutch than I ever thought possible. It'll feel WAY better when it's done though... that bite point is way too high!

    Maybe you drive like a Nana???? Not the 4000rpm clutch slipping while reversing from the gargage kind either :lol:

  12. Posted · Report reply

    ^^^ My Cappuccino would go over 9K, similar 100 bhp PER LITRE, but turbocharged...  and didn't have big end issues...

    ...maybe the M5 should have been a 3 cylinder ? 10 was just too many...

     

    Maybe I'm not overthinking this enough, and you need MORE cylinders!  4,999cc V10 (M5) divided by 657cc I3 (Cappuccino) is about 7.6, rounded up means 8 cappuccino engines for the same power: The M5 needs to be a 24 cylinder!

    • Haha 1

  13. Posted · Report reply

    On 2/28/2019 at 1:13 PM, M3AN said:

    The reality is that most of us don't have a $2000 device so need to consider other, viable methods.

    GOOD jumper cables and a second, running, car :thumbs-up:

    There are a LOT of modules hidden in modern stuff!

    It doesn't run when the engine is off, but the electric auxilliary cabin heater in our VW Tourans draw 80 amps at full power... but on a winter morning, the cabin is hot, before the engine is up to temperature B)

    • Like 1

  17. Posted · Report reply

    I remeber you posting pics on here of some salt cured bacon many years ago... I've done it a few times since!

    Amazing, compared to the shitty bought stuff.

    I didn't even smoke it though... mostly becasue it got eaten before I had a chance! :lol:

  22. Posted · Report reply

    @Mikan Bummer...

    Nah... it was heating up WAY before the gauge told you it was... the gauge reads "normal" from 75 through to 110 or 115 - then it shoots up pretty quick when the engine reaches about 125 or 130 and the gong happens... the gauge is a lying waste of time - although @Young Thrash Driver has my old E39 with the software re-calibrated, so it's a bit more realistic ;)

    Also, if the thermostat is dodgy, it may not have opened FAR enough - the flat plate on the back is supposed to block the return port on the rear, and force all the hot coolant into the radiator, and the return into the engine, instead of mixing the two while recirculating coolant in the block as it usually would at "normal" temperatures. The water pump losing drive to the impeller will do it too, as there isn't enough coolant movement.

    This is exactly why I changed ours to a mechanical thermostat and re-calibrated the gauge - yours would have been getting hot for a little while before you saw it, then suddenly the gauges and gong go off when it's too late ?

    At least you have a replacement option B) Maybe you should install a new supercharger while you're in there... the old one probably wasn't working anyway :lol:

    • Like 1
×
×
  • Create New...