slybma

Yeah this one will be over that 400k mark by the end of the year.

But all in all it runs really well, I'm very pleased with it. It only has three problems,

1/ Factory Toyota headunit no go. might be the code, but good excuse to put a new one in.

2/ Syncro on Reverse gear blown out i think, or something. For some reason it crunches into reverse unless its idling, no quick manouvers etc. If its something else simple I can fix let me know. Hopefully some new gearbox oil at some stage will solve.

3/ And the RPM gauge sometimes works sometime doesn't, i took the dash facia out when installing the stereo as required, couldnt see any loose connections or anything. anyone know what that could be? edit: clock also doesnt go at any time, and no hvac lights at night time when headlights on. May be related?

Will post up a picture at some stage anyways. Looks quite smart I think

The reverse idler is something we strike people having issues with, its due to the design of it. Check the rubber clutch line that runs down behind the cylinder head and down to the gearbox, we have seen these weep or swell causing the clutch not to fully disengage, which is fine for the forward gears because they run synchros but with reverse being just a gear being jammed between two others it becomes quite noticeable. New oil wouldn't hurt either.

The next time the RPM gauge doesn't work try giving the top of the dash a bit of a smack, if it starts working again or the needle bounces up and back down then i'd suggest its a problem within the dash cluster itself. Behind the RPM gauge is a little black transistor unit that breaks one of its connections so becomes intermittent, happens to a few Toyota's.

As for the lights and clock, id say it will need new bulbs and more than likely a new clock unit. The clock and radio run off the same fuse (DOME) normally a 15A so if it has power then the unit itself will be the issue.

Hope this helps

Are they going to run these on weekends too? or mainly week nights

Appreciate the advice mate thanks, i assume you must work for Toyota?

Ill be changing all the fluids incl diff and gearbox when it gets back down here, so will do the temp sensor same time. where is it on this engine? can be a real pain to find on some motors, like BMW M40 its under the intake etc.

our boss picked it up today and is using it to get around auckland for a few days before bringing it home. sounds like it runs very well but I'm going to have sore biceps giving it a well deserved cut and polish

they aren't too bad on these normally at the front of the head on the intake side or on the thermostat housing area.

Ya i ,manage the service department for the Hastings Toyota. They are a solid van we have some customers with a couple done over 400ks, don't see many in black though.

If you go with the 2.4 petrol then i would highly recommend having the cooling system flushed and new coolant put in. Also make sure the terminals on the engine coolant temp sensor are corrosion free, we see a few of them getting a bit of corrosion giving a false temp reading saying it's cooler than it really is, then they can crack the head in some cases.

Also, i know it sounds stupid but, keep good wiper blades on the front if they get a bit worn it puts a bit too much load on the wiper bushes and they wear out and pop the arms off the motor. Not a major issue but it's the first thing they put in the van so to get at it everything else has to come out.

let me know if you need any genuine parts, can offer trade grade pricing to members

I have a complete 89' 318i sedan most parts are there, engine sold but otherwise complete. Was bought just to swap a few panels for my coupe.

Car still has a wof but a bit much effort to put back on the road

If you want the whole car $400, or if you need something and you want to come and get it, you can have it.

If he has changed the ownership over you could get his name and address from VTNZ it costs like $4

It has sold

How much life do your 205/50 r15s have left in them?

Must be one hell of a heavy car to be $1,000. Usually $200 would cover the metal cost.

Ya $200 is what they pay but he will get about $1000 when it's stripped and separated.

A friend of mine works at a scrap yard and told me he has an accident damaged 1993 e36 coupe 325i manual, black leather interior, complete car he only wants $1000 to cover the weight of the metal.

Had a slight nose to tail so headlights, tail lights, front and rear bumpers and boot lid damaged

Has no wheels so may need to supply if you want it roll able

Front lower suspension arms and front seats are the only things missing

Can get front seats to complete the interior if needed at slight extra cost.

Engine still runs and gearbox selects all gears fine, I'm told it has a ZF gearbox not sure on the diff specs

It will be squashed complete late this week. I would by it myself if I could justify it

|do you still have the manual conversion?

I have an e34 sump pan and oil pick up tube bought for a conversion but ended up buying an e34 m50 engine so dont need this sump anymore

$200 ono

franklin cams have these.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-...n-579362131.htm

That sounds ideal, have you bought any of their cams in the past? Wondering if there race cam would be the same cost haha

hey mate whats the width and offset of the wheels?

As per title, the run about is starting to get very loud would like to buy a camshaft that isn't worn

Now also includes an e34 sump and oil pickup

i have a 93 e36 coupe that im wrecking that is still pretty complete but will be getting squashed on monday if you let me know exactly what your after ill see what i can do?

How soon are you moving? And how complete is the driveline? I'm assuming it's the TU engine?

In a few weeks, the drive line is complete has the driveshaft, selector, clutch, crossmember everything is there, yes is the TU engine

I have a complete m50b25 engine conversion setup includes ecu and wiring, with a 5 speed manual trans.

Was removed from a 1993 e36 325i coupe $1200ono

Need it gone ASAP as I'm moving and don't have the space anymore, and I'd rather not put into storage.

All offers considered

021332145

Clutch master cylinder?

Have you got all 4 bump trims on the doors and the 2 on the front guards with the silver trim in the middle? Are they any good? Only keen if they are near perfect eg no cracks, not peeling but its OK if you break the clips while removing them.

And also, the rear ashtray, with no cracks or broken bits?

The rear ashtray is intact and working fine

I have both passenger door bump trims and the drivers door and guard trim but the passenger guard and drivers rear door ones are gone. In good condition could use a clean though let me know if your interested can take pictures if it helps

Car will be going to the scrap yard to be squashed next weekend if there is anything you want itll be going cheap

alpine white? what are the guards like?

The passenger side has gone but the drivers side isnt bad has two small stone chips but otherwise its fine.

Im looking for a 4.1 ratio diff in good condition

sorry i haven't driven the car so cant be sure of the condition, or the ratio sorry

i had a similar problem in my e38 740, heavy cornering caused a weird exhaust noise it turned out to be a partially collapsed muffler part came loose and moved under heavy cornering. was a good excuse to build a new exhaust system