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SIR E30

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Posts posted by SIR E30


  1. OMG its Wills old touring!

    Like Ollie said, look after it mate. Its one of the nicest E30 Tourings around. Im feeling the wheels etc just dont bastardise it to much :D

    Yup sure is!

    Thanks for that, I think the same about the wheels.. They are modern enough without ricing the hell out of my car!

    Thanks for your comments guys, makes me feel very proud of what I've got! :D


  2. very nice car! she'll hold her value if you look after her. Make sure your tints are good quality and don't cut or drill any holes in interior panels or trim for "sounds".

    Enjoy the car, i know i would!

    Thanks Ollie, Dont worry I wont cut/drill the panels. I'm not putting subs in this car Ive decided, only upgrading the current speakers and putting a good head unit in. I wanna keep the interior as original as possible.

    As for the tints, im getting them done at automint in hamilton because a friend of a friend works there. Any experience with these guys??


  3. Heres a few pics of my E30 Touring for everyones enjoyment (hopefully!)

    I've had it for about a month and have loved every minute of driving it!! This car is my second BMW, I also have a 1986 320i manual.

    For you purists I have put up a pic of the car on its Basketweaves, which are now GONE :P

    Future mods: Suspension, sounds, Tints. Maybe a respray.....

    Yea so let me know what you think.

    Cheers guys & girls!

    post-1699-1217223460_thumb.jpg

    post-1699-1217224052_thumb.jpg

    post-1699-1217224657_thumb.jpg

    post-1699-1217225175_thumb.jpg

    post-1699-1217225705_thumb.jpg

    post-1699-1217226120_thumb.jpg

    post-1699-1217227615_thumb.jpg


  4. sold?

    and this might sound really stupid but wheres the clutch? i only see 2 pedals

    Not sold, on tardme with no reserve.

    There was a clutch pedal when I drove it this morning.. :) Probably just the angle of the photo. Definitely has a clutch though.

    I think its the accelerator pedal you cant see, its not the same shape as the other two. Have a closer look, its the big long one on the right hand side ;)


  5. Hey dude, looking for a car like this for a while. Few questions! How many k's has the body and new motor done? Do you have the original wheels? Cheers

    Hey there, the body has done 240ish kms and as for the motor I dont know, but if you really want to know I can ring the place where it came from and see if I can find out. It came from a european car dismantler in the waikato. I dont have the original wheels, i got rid of them a while ago but I do have some BBS basketweaves on my touring that could possibly go with it instead if you arent keen on the 17''s

    Cheers, Jason


  6. UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE!!!!

    The sale fell through due to family issues!

    Sooo the car is still for sale. Since the last time I posted the car has been through an AA check and a WOF and has had the necessary repairs to bring the car back up to standard. I replaced the right hand inner ball joint, the driveshaft/gearbox coupling and a brake hose that was cracked. I also had a new windscreen put in as the old one was cracked. Around $600 worth of work done with receipts to prove it.

    The car is in very good order now and needs to go as I have purchased a new car and in 2-4 weeks will no longer be using the car to get to work.

    Still negotiable on the stereo, and still the same price!!!

    Good buying people, dont wait around!


  7. Thanks Jason,the fan spindle appears to have a lot of rock to and fro and can be heard and felt when spinning fan by hand.

    My main concern is the fix process: can a bearing be fitted, or is complete fan unit required?

    Thanks for your help.

    Yep you're in luck, you can take the fan blades off the coupling and replace just the coupling itself. Thats where the 3 or 4 bolt thing comes into play.

    Undo the bolts on the motor side of the fan 8mm or 10mm... cant remember, and its too dark to see at the moment. This will make the fan blades come off the coupling and give you better access to the big nut that holds the coupling on. Remember, the big nut is a reverse thread. Also.. Just be careful not to slip or push the fan into the radiator, this can cause damage or even death to a radiator!! My mechanic found this out the hard way...


  8. Hey there, Ive been thinking about this today while working away. Ive come to the conclusion that it more than likely is the viscous coupling. The fan has a sort of clutch in it which is meant to slip and not spin fast when the engine is cold and when it heats up the clutch will grab and the fan will go at full speed. That explains why you hear the noise when the engine is cold. Does the temperature get higher when you sit still at lights or in traffic and then cool down when you drive off? If so thats a definite sign that your viscous coupling is gone! My E30 did the same thing a few months ago. I have the receipt in front of me, a new viscous coupling from SD European in Hamilton set me back $175 plus gst ($196.88) Make sure you get the right one, there is a 4 bolt and a 3 bolt version.

    Another thing you can do to check if it is the fan is when the motor is dead cold spin the fan with your hand and see how long it takes to stop. It should only take a few seconds. Then keep spinning the fan for about 30 seconds to a minute and if it starts to get loose and take longer to stop that means the coupling is stuffed.

    Happy trouble shooting!

    Jason


  9. Hi guys, noticing rummbling noise from front of car mainly when cold, suspected water pump.

    When engine is shut down noise continues till drive fan stops, on inspection bearing has some play and is rough.

    As an ex motor mechanic- be it 25 years ago was keen to fix myself.

    Any precautions or advise?

    Thanks.

    Dont buy a second hand viscous coupling, you will never know if its good until its in the car and running.

    Also, a handy hint: The nut that holds the fan on is huge and has a reverse thread!

    Good Luck!


  10. Jason,

    No - they aren't a direct replacement, you would need to change the whole mounting assy as a complete unit (lamps are different)

    Also wiring plugs are different from pre to F/L so would need to adapt these as well

    Brilliant, Thanks for that.

    You wouldnt happen to know roughly what of a full set of lights are selling for these days (second hand)?


  11. ahh 10 points for using moreys! good stuff that..

    Maybe you have accidently spilt a bit of oil on the exhaust manifold while you were pouring it in? That would burn and you would get the smell inside the car, but it will go away eventually (speaking from experience, I always use a funnel now)


  12. I will be willing to bet the tilt motor on them wont work. They should go in without any problems and should plug in fine, FL E30 lights look better but I dont think they work any better how ever. But since yours are cracked there no harm in updating to FL ones. You just proberbly wont be able to use the plastic light shroud thats in the engine bay over them as FL light units are longer.

    Someone correct me if Im wrong on something

    Thanks for that. Its all good about the tilt motor, I wasnt expecting it to work but I was just wonderin wether it would get in the way of things running smoothly. And as for the plastic shroud.. I dont have it on anyway so no biggie!!

    Thanks for your help mate


  13. Hey Guys.

    I am buying some new headlights as one of the ones in my car (pre facelift E30) at the moment is slightly cracked. Now I'm wondering wether or not the facelift lights will be any better? Would you be able to help me out there?

    If these lights are better, would they fit and how difficult would they be too wire up? Does the pre-facelift wiring harness fit onto the facelift system or would it need modifying. I know that the new lights I'm looking at have the little tilt motor as well. Will this affect me in any way?

    Any help is appreciated!!

    Cheers, Jason

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