tangalife

Thanks. Yeah well the first time it happened, I left bonnet up and went out a few hours later to top up the water. I had to put in around 3-4L of water, I was pretty worried at that point about how low it must have been. I only drove it three other times after that. The drive home at that point was fine, I just took it easy and got home with no leaking or steaming, the next day drove it again taking it easy and no problems. The 4th drive however I drove it with a bit more intent and got home and it was leaking like the first time. Bear in mind these drives were only about 5 or so minutes long each. FYI I have got a couple of mis fire codes but the car seems to drive pretty normal, ive had a rough idle for a while (seems to have gone away lately, once winter got over) ive been trying to diagnose a air leak for that

So on my last couple of drives i've pulled up to a stop and there is a big leak of coolant coming from the passenger side of the engine. I cant pinpoint exactly but it seems to be at least below or in the general area of the heater control valve. there is alot of water/coolant pouring out and plenty of steam. No particular smell to it. the engine isn't overheating, the temperature staying in the middle. I also dont seem to notice any leaking when the car is parked, just when the car is up to normal operating temperature. lately there has been a huge rush of constant heat coming from the air vents by your feet when driving, this starting happening once I removed the fuses to the heater and heated water jets (trying to solve a parasitic draw problem). Now eventually I have this leak problem, probably off the back of this. judging by these symptoms I can only assume my heater control valve has failed me, or perhaps there is leak on a hose nearby to it, but I am unable to determine exactly where. Can anyone recommened where I should look or should I just go ahead and replace the whole unit? My other thought was maybe a leaking valley pan out the left and onto the exhaust manifold creating the steam? cheers!

+4

Cool. Another development, I've noticed there is a blown fuse in the back. I am quite sure this is the fuel pump fuse, just need someone to confirm, I confirmed with another pic of google but the relays were different positioning on that picture so not sure if it definately is the same set up. In my pic, the one I have circled is blown. This one is a 15A Fuse and according to my diagram the Fuel Pump is Fuse #54 and a 15A, this one would be fuse #54 if we carry on from glove box fuse numbering. The only other 15A listed is for a heater and the other blue one at the end is a 15A, and is intact). Also noting, in the glovebox #17 and 31 are Fuel Pump fuses, 17 is missing and 31 is there and intact. Soooo hoping this is just a damn blown fuse problem (and will be embarrissed if it is also). I also tried to listen for the fuel pump, pulled the back seat out put my ear right up to the rubber cover and got my GF to turn over to Position 2, honestly couldnt hear anything. There are some noises going on about the car but none seemed to come directly from the pump with my ear up to it. My next step was to jump the relay and listen, thats when I found the blown fuse. And on another note, the car stopped cranking so im suspecting the battery has gone flat again so somethings going on there (PS - is my pic right where I've labelled the FP relay?)

Let's just hope that I dont have a 1000 diff codes sitting there already as they've probably not been cleared for dont know how long (Ive had the car about 7 months now). If I did, theoretically could I clear them, and when I go to start the car again and it fails it should then give me the code I need to see for my starting problem?

yeah I was trying to listen for the fuel pump last night, there are all kinds of buzzes so I assumed it was it (I went to the boot to listen too). I assume you mean left rear wheel, so I will give that ago. Funny you say about fuel, last night when I tried to start it again, I could smell fuel clearly from inside and outside the car. Last thing to add before I start some testing (when I get some time, at work this whole week hence me on the forum trying to solve it lol) - is i cant see ANY lights on my battery's sight glass making me wonder if its stuffed which could explain the dead battery's and maybe the hard time starting? Although that still wouldnt explain the rough idling and it shouldnt have cut out after initially starting on Monday morning?

Charged the battery, problem still there, wont start. Still no CEL light. Looks like the Service Light is on the last orange bar and INSPECTION shows up but figure it would still start with those on. While I wait for a scanner tool, looks like I will need to take some time to check the obvious things first, spark, fuel, etc Anyway, here is a video I took last night of it trying to start.

Yeah think ill get my own one, seem like a good investment (as discussed with Rich today). Battery on charge now. Fingers crossed she starts tommorow.

Thanks to Richard (Gadgetguy) who came around today to chuck his scanner on. Came up with a few results, but then we found the battery was flat (noticed when I was trying to start it back up yesterday the cranking was running out of juice so was half expecting a flat or flat-ish battery). So the results are inconclusive or untrustworthy as this stage. Hoping that with a charge, the car will at least start so I can take it for a proper diagnosis. The results we did get, were problems with the o2 sensors but again, perhaos untrustworthy at this stage perhaps.

Might for that seeing how cheap it is, is the software easy to install/navigate (i.e plug in and gives you the code easily enough)? What about something like this, $125 off trademe http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-...n-628985204.htm

Would love after seeing a video of using a peake reader, $350 pretty pricey and yeah dont seem easily available over here. Mind you probably has some re-sale value if I ever just want to flick it off. After a bit of internet research it does sound like it could be faulty CPS, but TBH there are alot of other potential things this could be

The trouble is just getting the car to a shop/scanner. Car is in Browns Bay (North Shore) at the moment. Sorry when I ment how much are they, as in buying one and doing it myself??? Unless its complicated/expensive, ill stay away from that lol.

How much are these or does anyone know someone mobile?

Hi team, Had a problem this morning. Started the car up, but 10 seconds later it dropped revs and then cut out. It wouldn't start after that, I would turn the key and it would just keep turning over and not fire up. I've had the car about 6 months now, ever since i've had it I would get a rough/lumpy/shaky idle for the first few mins of driving. So i'd pull up to traffic lights and it would do it, but eventually go away (almost like its warmed up). Usually worse on colder mornings. The prev owner said he had done the CCV/CVV and also replaced spark plugs, so that could maybe rule them out the spark plugs still? Maybe I should check the plugs anyway. What about coils??? I also cleaned the MAF and ICV earlier in the year trying to solve my idle problem so those should be sweet.

So I dont have the loom plug in my car, which sucks, so does my new head unit have to be hard wired in? I have the 4:3 nav unit double din. 1997 E39 540i. Been a huge mission sorting sounds out for my car

Does anyone know where I can find a wiring harness for the 4:3 nav system, Its not the singluar 12pin plug, but two plugs in the back of the unit? Cant find one anywhere

I wonder if this one sticks it out enough to clear the airbox? http://www.hyper.co.nz/drive/product/bmw/7...e/151637/detail

Wrong forum, but need a quick answer. Anyone know who sells double din facia/fitting kits for E39 with the tilt that allows you to fit a sizeable head unit that clears the airbox behind?

On this, how much watts is being powered to the speakers on a system with the amp in the boot? I have the 4:3 monitor, 1997 540i

cheers buddy

Hey zara did you go through this Hennie chap, I live in Torbay so he would be quite useful for what I want to do to my E39

Cheers, yep in Auckland. if I can just put in a different amp with my current stock stereo I would rather do that for the time being, then swap in aftermarket head unit down the track (maybe when they switch to digital TV reception in AKL rendering my monitor useless). The wiring in the current amp looks pretty complicated so will probably have to take it somewhere.

Hey man, looking for some of the buttons on the heater control unit, you got those?

I have a '97 e39 540i with the 4:3 monitor stereo unit (non dsp I think). It has the small factory amp in the boot. The sound is terrible, suprisingly bad considering it has an amp as well - I've heard alot better on standard systems running straight off the head unit. I've tried putting in new speakers in the rear but hasn't made a difference. I have a sub and amp lying around, and am thinking of getting a new aftermarket head unit. I know nothing about car audio and the wiring/set up seems pretty complicated. couple questions: 1 - can the factory amp be replaced with a different one easily enough, or would a new headunit (with matching harness for plug and play) improve sound? 2 - can I use a new headunit (again with harness) and wire in a sub (and amp for the sub) seperately, i.e stock amp runs speakers as it is now, and seperate amp and sub running along side. 3 - anyone know of a car audio installer who knows there sh*t and sort any of this out? For basic stuff I have some mates who have some knowledge but if it gets to complicated im better off going professional. cheers

e39 540i mate