aja540i

Might be a sign they werent designed with a 4L v8 in mind !

Im on the shore, work in Silverdale. How much are you afterfor the starter?

It will make a difference. An exhaust manifold is I highly stressed environment with high temps and vibration. Using the wrong welding wire will lead to cracks. Not purging stainless exhausts is also undesirable.

I'm fairly sure 3pedals is right

Youre right, what i meant was it wont be any easier or harder to weld, if hes going to tig or mig them the only change is the wire and gas mix!

Sweeeet easy welding. Thanks for the info

Shouldnt make any difference to the welding, unless you were going to gas weld them?

I have just picked up an M42 to drop in the e21 and i want to put a solid flywheel on it, apparently i need a flywheel and starter from an M20b25, if anyone can help. Starter doesnt need to work, i just need the gear from it to put in my starter. Cheers.

Add this to the list of cars BMW would have made if they didn't have to turn a profit!!

(E39 M5 touring anyone?)

Shame... my Mrs thinks they're ugly... plus I'd have to pay for the bits for a manual conversion

And a better than stock driveshaft:

So i shouldnt use the standard driveshaft when i put a v12 in the e21.....

haha well guess I have the best of both worlds then, and keep it that way .. caged, race prepped loud skyline with doof doof etc and the smooth euro cruiser with power on tap if required.

might still get the HIDs though and LED foglights to suit .. maybe play with the interior factory lighting to be red to suit the dash instead of the plain yellow/orange glow when doors open etc.

do they make glass e36 headlights? plastic headlights always turn yellowish after a while ..

I thought all e36 headlights were glass! Mine are, its one of the things i like about it after spending 4 hours polishing the e39 lights!!

I have driven a 320i on a long distance run and they aren't fantastic in terms of power, but they are fantastic in terms of economy. I put my Dad off buying one because I had heard the direct injection motor had some issues, but I imagine by now they would have been sorted if that car had any. I would probably go for the 323, just because it will hold a bit more value.

How old is the fluid in your trans? Sounds like a heat related thing, although they have a factory trans cooler I doubt it is up to the task of a track day, and if the fluid is elderly the heat will be more of an issue. Mine did it driving normally and the fluid was nasty!

Hmmm I rather miss the half cage I had in my E36 4 years ago

P1040486.jpeg

Just pray you never have to replace your high stop light!

nope, it will need a cert at the point of removal of the rear seats before you even start thinking about the cage.

I removed the rear seats from my City turbo and the only issue was that it had to be changed in the rego to a 2 seater, the guy at vtnz did it for me while he was doing the warrant, probably quite different for a 4 door car though.

Its been a while now, but i was told if its a 2 door car, with the back seat permanantly removed, and none of the cage is forward of the B pillar, it doesn't need a cert. Harnesses, however, need an authority card.

Like i say, going back a few years, and i know some of the rules have changed ( main hoop tube size etc).

If you want to get it sounding a bit nicer without spending much, you can cheat!! I drilled a 40mm hole in the back of the standard resonator, ( the one at the back with no outlet ) sounds quite nice without being obnoxious, and took about 10 minutes with a holesaw and battery drill!!

Not sure if its because i grew up in Northland, but I'm happy with it:)

Keep up the good work, its always nice to see someone improving a car instead of driving it into the ground!

Just be careful with those powercone / powerball things, i used one with wheel cleaner (mothers) to clean my wheels (obviously) when i finished i rinsed it with clean water and put it away, next time i went to use it the whole thing disintegrated!! Was a very unhappy camper!

^^ that. Aluminium is one of the most reactive metals around, as soon as oxygen comes in contact with it, oxidisation starts. Once a week is probably over the top, and most good polishes will have something in them to slow the oxidisation down, but it will be worse if they get wet etc, and if you dont keep them polished they will oxidise badly!

Difference is???

IMO convertible means the roof comes down, either soft top, made of fabric, or folding hard top, which the car in this case has. Could be wrong, could also be a language thing, different names in different countries etc. I'm not even sure if thats what BMW call it!!

I might be missing the point here, but for less than the cost of 4 cans of plastidip you could get a tin of good quality car paint, in any colour ever made, spray 4+ rims with several coats, and not worry about washing it off! Obviously if you want to change the colour of your wheels every week it is great, but it doesnt seem cheap to me!

If it had an o2 sensor, and the injectors werent much bigger it MIGHT be ok, but with no o2 sensor it will be running rich and down on power. Even if you did a remap, the injectors may be too big for the motor, i.e. the ecu might not be able to cycle on and off fast enough to get the small amount of fuel required at idle.

It also looks a lot like it hit it going backwards! Good effort!

They aren't serious right? "Convertible"Good journalism.Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

"Convertible", not "soft top". You can see the panel gap on the C pillar where the roof folds.

Why would you clean them ? They'll be black!! (Is it just me that doesn't clean wheels?)

^^hence don't over oil your k&n. Mines fine. Have run it now for 10000 odd Kay's, and no maf issues.Sent from my HTC_PN071 using Tapatalk

Agreed!

Have run k&n filters in my last 4 cars, have NEVER replaced a maf sensor. Also, it doesnt hurt to clean your intake system once in a while, whatever filter you run.

Clear coat will make them much easier to clean, unfortunately polished aluminium is one of the worst things to get paint or powdercoat to stick to, thats why it peels off all the time! If you are happy to polish them every week, dont bother with the clear coat, if you are lazy like me, powdercoat them black so you only have to clean them once a year!

Cast would work, but yep big cost getting it right.

My idea is draw up 2 plates on solidworks once I have the exact bolt patterns, give the .dxf to Profile Cutting Services to make up, then to another firm beside my work in East Tamaki to form sheet steel into a c.314 diam x 100 long cylinder then weld the plates to each end. With cutout and guard for starter obviously.

The trick is getting the two shafts (engine and gearbox) lined up EXACTLY. You may need to make a special jig that holds the 2 shafts in place while you weld the bits together, or a dummy shaft that locates the centres of both plates.

I dont think the sand casting is as expensive as it sounds, remember with sand casting they cant reuse the mold, so every casting is a "one off". If you make the pattern the casting might be quite cheap, it will be the machining afterwards that is expensive!

Good luck!