Matty

hmm, that's inspired me not to buy one.

Nope, tried that before and it doesn't work.

Side issue - I was told my 2000's Jap head unit is the "big plug" version - can someone clarify this in terms of what it looks like, what to ask for if I want a replacement OEM head unit (with normal radio band), and what iPod hookup products are compatible? cheers.

Hmm, reminds me of my MX-5...

Keep in mind there are several other factors to consider here. One, you can pick up a bargain used import here, which ou can't do in many countries. Our 330i cost $28K, whereas at home (in Australia) the same thing would be about 10-15K more. OK, this has nothing to do with new cars, but it's good anyway... Two, cars have bugger-all resale value in the US. So the total cost of ownership probably isn't dramatically less.

Follow up - Took the car to BM Workshop today. (well, the wife took it in anyway, but I spoke to Trevor on the phone for a bit, discussing various service issues) Apparently there was a previous fault with one of the cam angle sensors, the part had been replaced but the ECU probably not reset. So they did that and it's noticeably better now. Not perfect, but as good as it's going to get I think - it's not an M3... As a side note, I must say a big thanks to BM Workshop. Very friendly and professional to deal with, Trevor was even pointing out issues that I wasn't familiar with (like the backlighting of the gear selection indicator next to the gearstick - didn't even realise there was one!), and recommending precautionary maintenance (apparently the cooling system parts are prone to failure ~80000 km?)

Bummer about #1. #2 is all your fault though. Never drive faster than the speed at which the distance in which you can stop safely equals the visibility distance you have. (still sucks but)

Sweet, might look into that (the wife will never know). I assume you can access the wires by pulling up the trim around the shifter somewhere?

I don't think it's anything mechanical, but thanks for the tips anyway. Always filled with premium fuel, but I'm not sure what RON that is in NZ... 95? Will look for some 98. I too have noticed the learning of the ECU - spank it for a few corners and suddenly the auto hangs on to lower gears for a lot longer. Trouble is the wife drives it 95% of the time, so it's probably fallen asleep by now... Oh, and as another off-topic, I hate the reverse +/- sequential "manual" layout. Forwards should be - and vice versa.

Definitely not the auto. There's no engine noise, no flare up, just a lag before anything happens. It occurs both off the line and from cruise. Like I said, an old Camry auto I drive occasionally shits on it for responsiveness.I'm not expecting it to be a sports car, I just think it could be much better. At the very least, as good as a Camry...

There's no technical reason why a "drive by wire" throttle should have bad response. Drive a current model MX-5 for proof. Hell, you could even make it respond FASTER than you can push the pedal, if you program it properly... It's all in the programming, be it for emissions or traction control or whatever they've made it pretty awful. And that's a real shame from a self-proclaimed "driver's car" company.

What's a good (ie, not too expensive) source for a spare key for an E46? We've got one remote key and one "valet" key, but given the latter is plastic I don't like using it. It would be nice to have another remote key; is BMW the only source?

Not really a performance mod, but this is the closest category I can think of... Is there any way to fix the throttle response in the 330i? It is, in standard form, to be polite.... crap. Press the pedal and nothing happens for half a second, then boom, off it goes. Makes it tricky to drive quickly and smoothly. Seems to be with the electronic throttle programming as far as I can tell... Maybe I'm just spoiled coming from an MX-5, but hell, even the 15 year old Camry at work is vastly better. This is on a 2000 Jap, auto, ASC equipped model (if that makes a difference). Surely it's possible to hack the software and adjust it to suit?

. . . . . . . . <--- My wife drives this. I pedal...

not much help that... As for #2, I'd run fairly high pressure (in the 40s) to minimise rolling resistance.

And I take it these parts aren't easily accessed and replaced before they let go? well, I'll just have to tell the missus to go easy on it...

The E46 has a squeaky driver's door. I've tried squirting oil, and lithium grease at the hinge, but it doesn't seem to change anything. Any hot tips?

Well I did the test today, passed 33/35 ...and this was one of the two I got wrong even read it on the road code website, a couple of weeks ago though...

are there any warning signs, or checks/adjustments/changes that can be done to avoid whatever happened to you? We have a '00 330 with about 72K on the clock, I'd prefer not to have to fix the auto...

Which is due, as CamB suggest, to the large amount of caster used on those cars.The downsize of high caster angles is steering weight (which can be overcome with power steering) and the forces involved.

It would suck. My Aus licence is paid up til 2013...

Unfortunately in the last 6 or so times I've been into and out of NZ, not one passport stamp... I'm back in Aus next week but I'll be getting the NZ licence when I return. I assume I get to keep my Aus licence? My wife wasn't sure, if you move to Aus and get an Aus licence you lose your OS licence apparently...

So you're saying there's no issues with either of those head units?

That must be you he mentioned in an email to me. He told me to wait until the issues were sorted... OTOH hybrid has I assume had no problem with an E46 installation, and either type of head unit (Jap/world)?

I'm aware of that, but it has an effect on things like insurance excess...