JJohnsen88

Wow that sounds like a long drawn out process but so worth it in the end they look amazing. Where abouts did you get the wheels slimmed and what sort of $$ did it sting you?

God damn! Those are cleaner than an OCD sufferers kitchen, one hell of a transformation. Really got me itching to crack into my BBS/ASA Revolutions What sort of finish do you get back from the lips being skimmed? I have a couple nasty curb rash gouges I need to remove. What sandpaper grades do you recommend? Thank god I still have the factory 16's to put back on while I transform mine.

Yes it sure does, but like all factory cupholders I've experienced, they don't handle G-Force well I'm loving the manual, it's too cold at the moment for any sunroof action as my heater doesn't blow hot, only luke warm which previous owner's mechanic said the heater taps need bled. Apart from that, the headliner starting to drop slightly in a couple places, and the door card fabric coming away a bit too, that's all that's needing attention really. Payed $5500 for it and it had 164kms on it. As for exhaust, was looking at the reamus muffler and see how far I want to go after that maybe cat delete.

The short shift kit feels great, took a little getting used to. The gearknob is loose on the stick and no way to tighten it up (I've tried) which is a bit of a bummer. Got some 8000k HID's for the low beam sitting in the other car that I'm swapping over too. The wheels are 17x8" ASA/BBS Revolution with 205/40 tyres. Have had a wee look around for exhaust ideas, it's missing that throaty 6cyl rumble so I think that may be first on the add-on's list

I have one of these sitting in the 325 ready to swap over when I get time. Multi-colour LED display, had it set to the same orange as the dashlights. There's a couple minor things to touch up on but all round it's tidy

Not sure, I think I enjoy the standard suspension. I mean yeah it would look great on a nice set of coilovers, but I have had low cars in the past and I just ruined the ride comfort of the car, the improvements in cornering ability sort of made up for it in a way.

After a year of eyeing this up it's finally mine. She's a 1996 328i Motorsport coupe, manual, and much more power than my auto E36 325i

Still searching...

If you do have one in good cond. (less scrathes the better) that would be most helpful. I have been looking for quite a while for one in Diamond

Coupe or sedan lights? Is there even a difference? I've never taken much notice haha also possible to post a pic so I can see condition? I'm in Dunedin so happy to pay shipping

Hey everybody As the title says, I'm after a Diamantschwarz Metallic front guard for my E36 as mine has been dented and ugly for over a year now (pervious owner) and it's much cheaper to buy a good cond. 2nd than panel and paint the one I have. Shipping would be to Dunedin. Cheers guys

In need of atleast 2 wheel centre caps, 4 would be good and preferably in Dunedin as 2 have gone missing from the standard wheels when I went to swap them over to my BBS's. Seen some on TradeMe but can't be arsed with that haha

Problem solved...Just heard back from Mongoose, ran through a way to bypass the alarm and stuff but no luck, should be a fuse. Googled a E36 fuse diagram turns out fuse 18 (Fuel Pump) wasn't quite pushed in properly it maybe moved 1mm into it's connector now the car starts, on the plus side I found the fuse for my rear fog lights which never worked, light on the dash turns on for them signalling the have power. Oh I love electrical issues

So today I went to locate the comfort relay because the sunroof will not work at all now (used to work occasionally) and the passenger window plays up going down when in drive quite often often and always when I'm in reverse and it's really starting to piss me off, so pulled out glove box pretty sure I found it, blue one with red/red yellow and another wire coming out of it. Pulled it out opened it up to inspect solder condition, it looked fine, windows worked with it out, sunroof still didn't but the car started and ran fine. Decided to check fuses under bonet so started pulling them out one by one, majority of which are still the factory ones which aren't transparent and look typical of shoddy german engineering, noticed a 15A fuse (which was new transparent type) was blown so replaced it went to start the car it ran for about a second until the leftover fuel was burnt then died now won't fuel at all. I pulled out a number of fuses checking them and the car has a Mongoose M60 (pre 2009) alarm so I'm thinking maybe pulling out a fuse triggered an immobiliser function in the alarm. Used a current tester where the fuel pump is located under rear seat with the ignition in the On position which should show if it had power to it from having to prime the pump before cranking, touched all 4 wires on the drivers side and the other 2 on the passenger side but no power. Have called Mongoose about it just waiting to hear back from them. Anyone else got any suggestions? Alarm has a battery back-up so I highly doubt disconnecting battery would help.

Sweet I'll give him a PM see if he still has it Nope wasn't me, I was at home that time yesterday.

Hey, I don't know where else to look and a google search has brought me here. I'm after those white bimmersport.co.nz stickers. Here's what I'm after below. What are the actual dimensions and can I have a price including postage to Dunedin please.

Oh that missing bit of bumper trim would be excellent. As for plans, looking at a suspension upgrade make it sit better on those 17x8's, have thoughts on upgrading the exterior lighting to the smoked series like the side indicators are already maybe some angel eyes for the headlights, tidy the interior up get the body straightened up and resprayed and have a very tidy daily driver

I've been a member of this forum for a few months now so about time I uploaded some pics of my E36 now that it has some nice shiny wheels on it, looks much better than the boring 15" standard wheels.

Quick question, would E30 lowering springs fit an E36? Found some cheap for an E30, they look the same as E36 but need to know for sure

I'm thinking of changing my thermostat as the car runs cold 90% of the time only in slow traffic does it normalize so from experience these symptoms tell me this needs to be done, however, I'm wanting to know 1) Where do I find a good quality thermostat in Dunedin without going to Cooke Howlison BMW and paying an arm and a leg and how much? 2) If replacing thermostat doesn't solve the problem what would the next most logical option be?

If it was the relay then both sides would have the fault not just one though I thought

Had this car a week now and now have my 2nd hmmm problem. At a stage last night whenever I went to indicate right it would turn on then the green arrow and all 3 (Front, Side, and Rear) would stay on and the only way to get them to turn off was to either fiddle with the indicator switch indicating left and/or pushing the hazard light button and when the arrow turns off, turn the hazards/indicator off. I checked to see if when the right was continuously on if the left still worked as it should and yes it did and in correct timing too signalling that side has proper earth and no faults with any globes. At a set of lights, indicating right it was working correctly sitting still and when I started to move again it froze on like before. I pulled over turned the car completely off with the indicator still glowing to see if that would fix it but since it has an aftermarket mongoose alarm the indicators are able to operate without a key in the ignition to signal activation/deactivation of the alarm. Had a chat with Dad about it we both think there could be short somewhere in the system, has anyone else had this happen or heard anything similar?

Quick update as of last night I can confirm I have warm air from the feet and demister just not face so my bet is that switch on the dash below centre vents is stuck on cold even though the tumbler moves freely left to right. Need to change headunits over anyway so might have a look behind the dash at the same time see if I can find this little stuck valve

Haha na I even switched that from hot to cold and back no change in temperature, warm air meanwhile still came out of the demister vent upon command

Cheers guys but after reading this I kinda put it on the to do list as time goes by but a new discovery that has me scratching my head with only 1 possibility in mind. I get warm/semi hot air out of the front window demister vents but when I switch it to face vents I get blasted with cold air now to me that's saying the heater works just something isn't switching over properly. I haven't checked to see if I get warm air from the feet vents but for now let's assume I don't, what would be the likely culprit this time?