petone

Try it with a full tank of 95. I can tell the difference between 91 and 95, not so much with 98 and 95, might just be more placebo effect. It just generally runs smoother and better economy, and the extra 5c a litre is stuff all really when paying 1.45 a litre.

Dayum. That sort of setup will be 400+ of lazy horsepower.

in regards to the amp being on "full" I assume you talking bout the gain? That wont be draining your battery. If the light is off then your amp should be tunred off and wont suck power, I'll be very surprised if there is a problem with the amp. The gain control shouldn't be on full either though, this controls how much the amp is amplifiing the signal, or effectively how loud the subs will be.

damn, I've just seen this, I was wondering what was happening with those skirts chris. that sucks. I'm surprised someone with feedback like his would go and deliberatly rip you off, but like you said it was outside of trademe.

Depends how tough they make the testing, I'm in the same boat as you: My 19 year old banger doesn't use any oil or water and has been well looked after since i've owned it, and previous owners from the looks of things, but it is an old engine with even older technology (or lack of it) and doesn't have a cat or o2 sensor. I agree with who ever said a well maintained old car should be better than a new heap, so maybe emmissions testing is a better idea than age restriction. Is this restriction to reduce emmissions, fuel consumption or both? also, is the emmissions problem really that bad though, how often does someone see a car smoking really badly nowadays?

Most older BMW's are actually pretty crappy on the gas, (E30's that is, 5's or 7's would have to be worse still) japa shopping trolleys are far better on petrol.

Um don't you only want the amp on when the headunit is? Yes you could wire up a switch but you'll forgot to turn it off and next morning your battery is flat, just sort it properly. Chris is exactly right but I think you might be getting a little confused still.. There are 3 wires relating to power FOR the head unit: EARTH (usually black or brown), 12V POWERr (should be fused (10AMP) and come straight from battery) and IGNITION (or accessory i suppose), I used the wire from the factory radio, otherwise you'll have to hunt down a wire that will be on when the key is in ACC or ON. Once you've got that sorted you need the remote wire for the amp, this is so the amp is only on when the head unit is and doesn't drain your battery. Make sure you use the proper REMOTE wire for this and not antenna as some headunits will only raise the antenna when the radio is on, meaning you'd only have subs for the radio. Other things to note, some headunits might share an antenna and remote wire, mine does. Also, there is a limit to how much current you can draw this, from memory 2 amplifiers should be sweet but I'm not sure about more than that. ALWAYS pull the negative cable off the battery before you do any work so you don't accidently short something. Lastly don't forget fuses and don't pull ghetto sh*t, either solder and then heatshrink connections or use proper crimp connection. If you don't you'll regret when your sounds turn off over bumps or worse, you fry something important.

so would I be right to assume that "Route OZ" on the back means they are the OZ ones, or is that something different? I can't see any other marks regarding who made them.

I wouldn't sell my mint ones for less than 2K.

haha welcome to last week grant. No new epsiode this week though, not sure why. sometimes it gets a bit silly but a few good surprises now and then.

3800 is crazy, I paid 2800 3 and a half years ago for a mint 87 5spd 318. Still reckon i'd be lucky to get 2K for i if i was to sell. Doubt you'll find another buyer willing to pay that but prove me wrong.

320i and 325i heads are NOT the same.

not you, the guy who posted it on that website. I've posted the original write up here before, only it covers painting as well.

plagiarism.

locking caps for mags?

bump, c'mon, someones gotta have some?

If your lucky you might get 2K. I'd drop the start price if you want to see what its worth.

Huh? I think you mis-understood. No chisels needed, the locking caps aren't stuck on. Its just I've lost 2 of them. I'd only need the key if keys are unique to each set. Possibly interested in some better locking studs though, I was going to hold off until I went to proper wheel studs.

I've lost 2 of my black locking caps that go over the wheel bolts. I'm not sure if they have different keys or not, if any key works then I only need 2. Otherwise I'm after 4 and a key. Cheers, Mike

most people my age who do the new years thing are back by the 3rd or 4th anyway. BDO could be on the 5th or 6th (fri or sat), in a perfect world that is.

Hate it when people ignore you warning them, I tried to tell the alignment guy my car will be a PITA but he tells me he knows what he's doing. They get the car on the hoist and what do ya know? They start complaining about how hard it will be.

If you get desperate let me know, I may have the right one back home.

ticket prices are fair but its all the other costs of getting up there plus accomodation food booze etc. And after new years as well so money is really tight. It would be cool if it was closer to new years so it could be merged into one mission.

hmmm, is it worth the trip for Tool? Muse would be cool to, not really to bothered about the others. RHCP would make it almost definate though.