petone

and how long would that last between rebuilds? lag? grunt straight off the bottom?

Mmmmm... Sacrelicious easy (with a pretty mild cam) 400hp at the wheels from those engines

I may have one available around the end of the year, not sure whether to run my 3.91 or 4.1 Is a 3.91 close enough or does it have to be a 4.1?

No one really seams to buy Mtec shocks new, most people go for the konis or bilstein if they looking for a performance shock. I don't know how much shorter they are than standard. The Mtec shocks might say 'bilstein' or 'boge turbo' on them. I'm running boge turbos in the rear and they retail for roughly $300 (pair) from memory. the shocks second hand? How worn are they? If you have them then take out one of your rear shocks (takes 10 min max) and compare them.

1200 will be for the full set, and I'm pretty sure rears are usually cheaper so say around $400. OEM 'M' shocks are either boge or bilstein (probably revalved to suit BMW)

my urethane trailing arm ones slid straight in, same for subframe. Both PITA to get out though.

I done tinting once, never again. If you are really broke then give the sides ago but forget about the back one. I've had trouble with the cops from 35%, BMWs have a factory tint which makes it a tad darker than 35%

wouldn't be suprised if they've used some sort of online translator

great little section of road heading up to larnach castle, but I'm guessing you wont have your car down. I prefer albert arms to the other pubs, pretty sure uni finishes this week so there probly a few out on friday atleast

the kits a nice change from mtec, pity theres stuff all around.

WD40 is your friend

I had 3 direzza 101s pinched from my garage on the weekend not quite the same value as some 19's but still f**king BS!

My Z3 lever was cheaper than that from the $tealer $109 or something like that Have an online parts place quote you freight, may be cheaper than you think.

neat. what you using for the heatshield?

HB haha I know exactly what ya mean

http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....p;p=entry like its says either had the bits lying around, got them from pick-a-part or offcuts from metal places. Hardest bit was brackets for the AFM, they're pretty decent though. Feel free to ask if something not clear. edit, no probs with idle here.

I thought the water cooling was more for the sake of the oil than the turbo? Basically you can go longer between oil changes, keeps oil temps down etc.

I have no carpet. I have a 2 pools of water in the rear foot wells after a big rain. I cant f**king find the leak. There are no signs of water running from the dash or anything. All sunroof drains have been cleaned and seem to be draining properly. The front firewall drain had been cleaned. Must be coming from the boot, any other ideas? /Thread hijack Being a broke student and having broke student mates I still see alot of rusty old cars around.

Otherway way round dude

search button does wonders: http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....465&hl=diff You certain about the LSD? If the car was in gear the wheels shouldn't move. There is a tag on the back of the diff, an LSD will have an 'S' before the ratio.

I used a gear puller for the trailing arm ones, but you could rig up your own tool easy enough. Urethane ones slide straight in without needing a press. Subframe ones are the biggest PITA. I melted/burned the middle part out then slowly hack-sawed through the remaining part until it collapsed in. There is a proper tool to remove them though.

AFAIK thats one of the requirements for lines to be WOFable, for the reasons that sam said. How much of an improvement is there over NEW rubber lines? I ask as most people seem to go from crappy old lines to the SS ones and rave about them.

yes. attach them to the oustside of your drums.

probly will be the M42 gus, the M43 was the replacement for the M40, ie is in the normal 318i

I still like the stuff on the new S-class... anyone fancy a night vision camera?