petone

I'm halfway there with mine,

whiteline springs in the front, 60mm drop with standard boge shocks

dobis in the back that are 20mm drop, also have some 40mm springs i can put in, using boge sport shocks. also have a 325 rear swaybar

Tires- 195/60R14 Yoko Cdrives on the front and dunlop FM901 on the back

In the pipeline: Still have to put in my eurathane bushings, seems like it will never get done, been 5 months now. Also want to put in a larger front swaybar and put sport shocks in the front. M3 CABs would also be nice.

and that I end up buying then the $100 will be yours

look, if its just the rears then buy the shortended shocks. Simple. If you can't install them then a shop would do it in less than an hour easy.

If its front and rear then buy some standard springs. Rears take 10 to fit and front maybe 2 hours. Then you'll also need an alignment.

i don't think 98 is worth the extra over 96, my car doens't like 91 at all either.

is it just the back or the fronts as well?

heaps of people on here would have standard springs lying around, just post in want to buy.

what is the deal on spring pads? Just different heights available? I assume they cant be stacked

either change the springs or put shortened shocks in. Cheapest option is to find some standard springs and put them back in.

sucks to see that bro, gutted for you

As greame said you just have do get the right parts and it should all bolt up fine. I wouldn't bother with the effort though. I could have changed my windows to electric but didn't bother, wind up is so much more reliable and its lighter as well.

If you jack up the wheel try and shake it from top to bottom, if theres movement your bearing is probably gone, also worn bearings can be noisy.

yes

Doesn't matter too much if your battery goes flat, you can open the bonnet from outside can't you? And you can re-wire so the boot wont open everything.

my speakers sit out a long way and for the bonnet release to clear it would then mean that the g/box wont open. could always try and find somewhere else though

haha thought you might say that. waiting for "course related costs" to come thru

10%

*runs away and hides*

Dam i wish i had a PS2 down here. Oh well, alcohol will have to do as a substitute.

unbolt the bonnet release and boot it in the glove box. Thats what i have done and i managed to squeeze in 6.5" speakers

Happy B/Day Mate

have a good one. Any new toys for the E30?

I think the paint would come off if you just used normal primer. (The handles are plastic aren't they?) There is a special plastic primer that you can buy for mirrors, bumpers, door handles etc. I have used it on my front lip bumper thing and it has lasted extremely well with no sign of flaking or cracking. I think that handles would get quite alot of wear so it will be interesting see how long it lasts.

can you post some pics, info etc when you've finished

In my experiences with playing around with springs i found that a 60mm drop all round is about as low as you can go and still have 100mm ground clearance, (my car does have slightly lower profile tyres on it though)

I found that 60mm in the back was just too low, looked stupid, handled ugly. So i but in some with a 40mm drop which looked good. But when i put my subs in it put too much weight and dropped the car down again, so i put some 20mm drop springs in the back, but still sits slightly high for my liking. If i ever get round to camber fix i will put my 40mm springs in. Neither the 20mm or 40mm springs needed shortened shocks (unsure of 60mm)

I have a mate involved in suspension and he told me all aftermarket springs are close to 30% stiffer than stock. (Whiteline, pedders, dobis, etc) I don't know how true this is for kings or jamex. Too many different stories around to know for sure.

Ask if you bring them back if you aren't happy with them, the springs will take a few days to settle properly though.

dam. cheers anyway guys.

I was told me to f**k off (in the politest way possible) as soon as the found out I was a 18 year old with a BMW, that was before i told them about the mods. I argued it was almost 20 years old and as slow as a toyota corolla, made no differenc, just cos of the propeller badge.

watch out for the different strurt size. being off a 320 they are probably smaller than your 325 ones. not definate though

does seem odd you don't mind losing some top end. Anyway generally you would want to restrict the breathing a bit more, eg smaller valves, smaller headers, etc

As for cam i think you can go for something that longer duration and less left, should also increase torque

Does andys 323 head have smaller or bigger valves than the 325i (too much misinformation around to know for sure without actually seeing them) if they are smaller that would give him more torque.

I get what your all saying about just buying a f*#ked 325 and i know it would be the simplest and easiest (and maybe cheaper) by a long shot. I was just seeing if i can do anything with these random bits of engine. As cam said, i need to work out what other bits i need and what they'll cost me vs cost of 325 wreck

Ok, lets just say that this engine will be going into 4wd or something.

will 2.5 pistons and crank work with 2.0 head and conrods? (If so any idea on c/r?)

Or can someone tell me where/how i might find out.

Please no more on buying a 325