petone

some of my random self pwning, some beer related, some car related

was pretty livered at party and sitting on the fence, sort of fell off backwards. 10 min later i was told i had blood running down my neck. 5 stitches fixed that up.

Some of you might remember i was jacking my car up (to put axle stands under) when shitty E30 jack gave way. My hand ended up bwteen the car and the jack. Extremly painful.

Managed to squirt brake fluid in my mouth once. Quite possibly the worst tasting stuff ever. The taste just doesn't go away.

Tried to jump the avon river... got wet

On my dirtbike, got a run up to get up big hill, didn't check what was on other side, turned out nothing. Went over the handlebars on that one. Also lots of other bike injuries, have fallen off bike just about every possible way.

How does chrome = negative camber?

Lowering = negative camber.

Get your tires rotated on the rims to double the life of them.

Q about the whole if its there thing,: I fitted a 325 swaybar to my 318, lets say the bushes weren't up to WOF standard. So the car will fail even though it didn't have a swaybar from factory? But i could then remove the swaybar and pass WOF? Right?

dam pests, I had a massive battle with this blowfly on steroids when i was trying to get some sleep, textbook certainly laid the smackdown.

As for the mouse: spudgun would deal to it pretty good.

Just got the game yesterday. first time round the ring did a 7:30 in my 580kW commodore SS, didn't exactly stay on track but like gus said, going out in a car way to powerful to learn in is way more fun. Oh and no driving aids of course

I was unbeatable at GT3 so gimme a few days on GT4 and i'll have it sorted.

Just repeating what sparkle said, can it be advanced at all on 96 or is it a waste of time unless you use 98?

I think it was $220 for incl shipping for the 2 subframe ones and 4 trailing arm ones. I was going to get the adjustable trailing arm ones but people said they lost adjustment so I've got to get the new subframe modified like in that link glenn posted a while ago. I'll let ya know how it all goes.

So burning is the easiest way to get them out then? I got IE ones sitting in my room along with trailing arm ones waiting to be put in. Tis my project for the break along with replacing my bent subframe.

That wouldn't be too bad. Tane if you want to swap let me know.

40K is about average ofr family car etc. I got around 25K off my toyos, with the amount of camber in the back i have thats not too bad. Dam performance tyres, cost ya more and don't last as long. Atleast were not driving VW Tourags, one came into work, had 275 R19 pirellis on it. They were good for only 10K and cost nearly $1000 each. Thats close to 4 grand on tyres for 10000 k driving!

Yeah gets 90 roughly in 2nd, 3rd about 135. It would just be nice to have the gears closer together. For some reason my limiter is cutting in early, around 5,900rpm. Any reason for this or an easy fix? As for putting 4.27 diff in, what revs would i be pulling at 100k? with the 3.91 its 2600.

Home for a 3 week break

Be able to get the dirt bikes out again. Got massive 2 day event coming up soon. goes something like ride all sat, have lots of beer on sat night, sleep, then ride sunday. Its called Desert Storm, get to ride in that army traing ground for some of it. Best weekend of the year. No police to nab ya for speeding or skidz either. Unfortunatly its the same weekend as Manfield training day so I can't go to that.

Looking good.

How are those wheels for offset? Do you need any spacers or anything?

I got a 3.91, wouldn't mind going 4.10 Only prob is mine is probably the small case. I think my car should have 4.1 but maybe it was changed by PO? How much work to swap over to the larger diff size?

non i think, i haven't got a speeding fine yet but got done for rolling stop sign a while ago, does that count towards demerits?

Can't really go much lower than 60mm drop before you need cert. it is possible to buy 90mm lower springs but it think thats a bit too much

overseas got 4 door M3 so it must have been imported

Sorry i forgot to mention you'll need a spring compressor if you still have standard springs. CaM, carl is right. What happens is although lowered springs are normally captive, they are only captive becuase of the nut on top of the strut. When you tighten that up it compresses the spring, but there should be enough slack in it so when the nut is lossend the spring don't should off. Thats how it is in my car anyway. Dunno if that makes sense but i not sure how to explain.

not sure about E36 but i think they are pretty similar. Both are pretty straight forward jobs. Might aswell do both at the same time seeing as you would have the car jacked up, wheels off etc. Hardest part doing the shocks will probably pulling the strut off the car if there are some stubborn ball joints. Other than that i can't think of anything tricky.

I used a G-clamp to force the piston back into the caliper but anything along those lines will work. Make sure you replace the pads when you do the disks and go easy on the brakes to break them in for the 1st 300K's. Also BNT have pretty good prices so try there if you haven't already.

haha good one, chosing a set of tyres over what they look like.

very cool, i'm liking the wheels, Did you buy them or did they come with the car?

have a look at how i did mine if you want. Unless you can do it yourself cheap its probably not worth the effort. mine is only 4 cyl though.

my pod setup

With directional or just normal tread you can get a tyre shop to flip them on the rims so the tread that was on the inside wearing out is now the outside so you can double the life of your tyres. Assemetrical are only designed to mount one way on the rim, meaning you can put them on any corner (unlike directional) but the inside of the tyre will always be on the inside? Does that make sense or were you meaning something else?

Should add to davids comment on the A539 (or Cdrive) that they are assemetrical so they will only mount one way as he said.

yeah, your front wheel has mad camber