Jacko

7 minutes ago, Driftit said:

Nah that just clips in and holds up the hoses. Possible they had the cowling it clips into off to check back/top of motor. 

The clips are regularly busted too, by apes who cant see where the clip locks, and then they just fall out.

4 hours ago, ciderbeard said:

, if $400 for a service doesn't even include topping up coolant what the hell did I pay for?  

 

Whats the invoice say?

37 minutes ago, NZ_InFerno said:

I've had that kit in my cart for a year or so, it was out of stock for a while. 

They also recommend this install kit to go with it, is it needed as well? 

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-control-arm-bolt-kit-31106763928kt

 

Nah, unless ya butcher a bolt. 

An internet rant I missed

Tyre and brake pad wear produces nearly 1000 times the carbon particulates that exhausts do, and is unregulated. EVs have big ass 20" chromies, weigh a hundreds of kilos more than efficient vehicles that sip on the waste products of dead dinosaurs. 

We need to ban overweight vehicles, like EVs and shitty SUVs, and those running too large a tyres on the back of hatchbacks, to save the planet. Stop start is as irrelevant as taxing chicken farts.

https://www.emissionsanalytics.com/news/pollution-tyre-wear-worse-exhaust-emissions#:~:text=Using a popular family hatchback,a factor of over 1%2C000.

Bit of an example on chiptunings website of mallarky unfortunately -

Both of the listed examples produce exactly the same power, its the same engine with same basic everything the matters. Yet somehow they have different outcomes...

SAE changed the standard for measuring BHP in 2005/6, (SAE J2723 if anyone cares), so in BMWs case Pre-LCI e8/9x x30i cars got measured against the old standard, LCI cars against the new. New standard is much tighter defined, and resulted in BMW N52s case of a few hp drop. This is why PreLCI N52s are 265bhp, and LCI 258bhp, yet in reality they produce the same power. Various markets require various standards beyond the SAE stuff (like the German DIN standard), and so even more slight variances occur depending on where the car was sold ( and then when the internet starts spreading numbers in a dick measuring contest, and forgetting the real context - Its the same engine with the same DME, same internals, same intake, and same exhaust)

1 hour ago, ciderbeard said:

Holy sh*t that’s insane gains.

Most of them are marketing, and by that I mean all of them are marketing, many dyno plots after a generic DME flash show about 5-10hp at the wheels. There was a kiwi company, forgot the name, claim 305hp from an N52  

There is a website that most of these guys buy the files from and then distribute, its kinda like wholesale DME dump, and then they retail it with all the claims. Have a look at tuners like BPC/StageFP/Severn who actually do dyno tuning on them for realistic numbers of what to expect... without doing other things (like MILVs) there really isnt much to be had, the N52B30 in a 130 is already at BMWs factory highest state of tune out of the box, and there are no turbos to wind up the boost on.

47 minutes ago, M3AN said:

replace the pipe and sound generator with a Mishimoto silicon hose

Staggered tyres and making near the only rear wheel drive hatchback on the planet drive like a front wheel drive generic transport box is one thing, but taking the musical instrument off of an N52 is straight up heretic talk! 

1 hour ago, ciderbeard said:

what's the thoughts on an intake upgrade like GruppeM or similar?  Can we source anything in NZ?

As Dave says, they look cool. Ive had a good poke around the Simota/GruppeM/BMWP ones in person... The Simota is about the only one that stacks up all around, the GruppeM isnt actually that nicely made, the BMWP one looks nice but likely does next to zilch (and $$$$ if you can even find one), the Simota one is pretty nicely made and makes good induction noises. The stock 130i intake is pretty sh*t hot to start with, and makes hilarious fun noises if you take the lid off anyway. I even started CADing up a new airbox with the best bits of all 3 options, but just dont have the time to do it unfortunately. Ill probably get a Turner motorsport one when do the engine swap on mine, its available and will do as much as any of the others for performance (and noise), no carbon fancyness but meh. 

1 hour ago, ciderbeard said:

i should have asked a better question which was is there an opportunity to upgrade anything with this maintenance?  If I have to buy new parts then upgrading to performance makes sense.  I imagine it might only be in the ignition stuff.

 

M3 LCAs, and a K&N if that floats ya boat.

Few swipes with a file, will need a few more once I've beaten the heat shield into a new shape. 

We need a skidpad and some G meters, so the internet can sleep easy at night.

By the same logic, pull your sway bars out, as front or rear grip balance is perceived  . Its about balance front to rear, not absolute grip levels. Understeer is understeer, no matter the load level or road speed it happens at. If you put 255s on the front and back, not that they would fit, grip would break away more evenly at the limit (which all things being equal would admittedly be higher than narrower tyres). Best bet, stickier rubber and even grip levels front to back. Its a near 50/50 balanced hatchback, not a dodge viper 😛 

Take a look at the 130 race cars - they are all square setups (some like the 130i challenge, are admittedly for level playing fields, but they run 205s front and back) 

30 minutes ago, Driftit said:

  It is BMW race car central.

Forgot to mention the other benefit, there is always lots of nice cars there to perve at  

19 hours ago, ciderbeard said:

@choo

sweet I think that's what I will go for.  

Do most people run this setup:  225/40 R18 #255/35 R18?

You'll get a few answers here, but personally, having tried multiple different setups and driving like a f**ken numpty regularly, the best setup is square or maybe like 225/235 f/.r. 240ish hp at the rear doesnt demand monster widths at the back even for off the line traction (0-100 in 5.4s with 225s on the back...), and when loaded up in a corner it just makes for understeer as the fronts got less meat than the rear. (despite looking cool)

Id take it to P&S autos, or all that stuff is DIY as, no idea on the pricing, but they know 130s well and do a good job. 

"Make it hot to avoid that touch" (Pretty sure thats a Cardi B song)

Rolled the dice, for what they cost they are pretty amazing, pity they dont fit out of the box

4 hours ago, Driftit said:

The Laufenns (Hankook) that I have run for the last year were okay.  However they only lasted 25,000kms on the shitty NZ rural roads.  I was quite surprised.
The previous cheap Roadstone Eurovis Sport 04 lasted nearly 40,000kms on the same roads.  I also abused them at the track and the Mrs did some 1 mile high speed sprints on them.  For a commuter or a city car I would highly recommend them.  Korean made just like the Laufenns.

Both are cheap through Hyperdrive.co.nz which has it's normal 40% off Briscoes style discount going at the moment.

We have RE003's on our 200sx.  Great in the dry.  Terrible in the wet.  Quite a few reviews state the same for these tyres.  Probably fine for a commuter.
Though they are far better than the previous Eagle F1's we had on it.  Which were a total laugh on the track in the wet.  Zero grip from near new tyres.  Great training for the Wife learning to control the car sideways.  Even worse once they are a few years old.  I think these were made in a different factory to the older ones.
I picked up a set of Dunlop Direzza Dz102's to replace the RE003's.  Yet to be fitted.

I have Bridgestone RE002's on the AMG.  Also great in the dry but they also light up like they are bald in the wet just like the RE003's.

 

Eagle F1 Asymetric? I ran Asy 3s and 4s, found them absolutely epic in the wet? RE003s definitely arent amazing in wet, but I would rate the F1 in probably first place of bunch ive tried as a wet performance tyre? (Many spirited drives to Raglan...)

Definitely 18s, 17s are too small. 

RE003s are great bang for buck, places like Tonys tyres do good prices on them. 

Im leaning towards giving the mount a trim, heaps of meat below the lip and it looks to clear the stud still. Also have a spare mount

Should be able to reattach the heat shield with some panel beating. 

Apparently these are the RHD version 

It'll be something like this, heatshield will have to get chopped up a bit too. 

Went back to the manufacturer, who is talking, and is also scratching their heads. Engine mount is standard across 1/3/Z N52s...

Its more than the shield, Its about 10mm of the lip around edge of the bolt hole. 😕 

So the question is... do I tweak the headers or trim the engine mount a smidge...

Weirdly, drivers side body loom pinned for heated seats, passengers one not... swapped some pins around and now passenger also gets a cooled ass. Thanks to @HELLBM for hooking me up with the rocking horse sh*t seat side pins.

Seats in, kind of. Need new bolts for the rear of rails, getting a torx bit in there just aint happening. Dont appear to have power on the passenger seat, will break out multimeter, must have got wrong pin as everything else is working (heater, cooler, power adjustments). Seats have WAY more adjustment range than stock, and at lowest position are about 1.5" lower than stock, much less "sitting on the car" feeling. Coding out the airbags takes 5 seconds, occupancy sensors, seat belt sensors, and pretensioners all still exist. 

Stock Msport electrics 27.7+27.7 = 55kg

Recaros 20.4+24.6 = 45kg

10kg saved, with more bells.