540i TOURING

You read my mind that was Exactly what I was just about to type quailboy!

Mean Brent I would love a Manual conversion for mine.

Yep Ultra72 is a complete waste of time, guys name is Todd made me a similar Cash offer on my Clubsport unseen which I accepted then promised to come out and see the car but couldn't commit to a time and then never showed.

Yep Elite Tint have done my last two wagons, recommend them.

Rainbow or DLS for Speakers and Amps., you will be happy.

It was the dealership owners 19 year old son

Yeah my 1995 540iT has TC and definately no LSD.

M3 Guy I use my 540i Touring 50/50 city and open road driving, live in Waiuku and travel to East Tamaki/Penrose etc visit customers and then back again and normally carry a small load of at least 150 kg onboard. My average fuel consumption for this driving is 12.4 litres/100km. City only is 15-16 litres/100km Open Road only I have had it down to 9.0 litres/100km but realistically probably 10 litres/100km (after a few overtakes here and there) Cheers Adam

Hey Alex nice ride, definately recommend Keith from Suspension Progress H&R

Arros its not so much the engines in the Commodores its just the small little things that keep braking or failing that piss you off because the car is always in the shop! The way I look at it is a BMW thats been maintained properly with 140km is equivalent to a Commodore with 40km! However the first of the new Chev 5.7's some were very unreliable, you either got a good one or not in VT Series 2 and VX as these engines had problems with bad rattling on start up plus oil feed problems and blowing to pieces, holden replaced or rebuilt a lot of engines in 1999-2001. My mates one had oil light come on at 3500km , bye bye engine. The guys at Paul Manuell racing work on these all the time and told me if you're going to get a Commodore then get a VY as these were the best/most reliable as all the problems had been ironed out, touch wood mine has been awesome with only clutch and brakes been replaced so far (puke track days will do this to any car ) and thats with the mods and revving to the limiter lap after lap! VZ started to get trial a few of the new VE parts like fly by wire throttle etc and I don't think they have the same throttle feel as my VY. And yes with the Extractors, Exhaust, Air Intake and Tune they are hard to beat for power and economy. Looking on Trade Me there are a few VY's SS's for sale with low km the price like other v8s has really dropped with petrol and with that trade me rating system for fuel economy. However with the standard suspension the ride quality is sh..t and brakes are gone with two laps of Puke. I reckon you need to allow another 11 grand to get one up to par. Wheels & Tyres $3000 Suspension $2000 Airbox $950 Tune $1500 Brakes $2000 Exhaust $1500 The new VE I don't really like, my neighbour has a new GTS and I don't know I think its a bit like the E60 vrs E39, M5 I'm sure the new models drive better and go harder but they seem to have lost their hard edge??? Also the new VE interiors are sh...t, very plasticy inside even the GTS interior and is already showing signs of wear on the seat bolsters and he only has 5000km on the clock. Also once again a 2006-2007 VE is first of the new model and have had recalls for this and that so once again expect them to be in and out of the shop, I can't be assed with that! Unfortunately though if you want power for money then the new HSV's coming out next month with the corvette 6.2 litre engine are going to be it. Apparently the factory 317 KW standard is so de-tuned its not funny, the Aussie tuner guys have just done an exhaust and dyno tune and got 291 rear wheel kw (approx 400kw) ! Paul Manuell expects at least another 20kw with one of our over the radiator airbox's.! Now thats some good power for an everyday driver! I would still have a E39 M5 though...

Arros sorry I got a bit carried away there typing and forgot to answer your questions.... At this stage I will keep the Touring, I have to buy a truck or something to tow the 2.2 ton wakeboard boat before summer as the Clubby is not liking it on the clutch... So not sure whether I will sell the Clubby or Touring. Yes the seats fold down all the way and there is plenty of room. Yes am very happy with the 20's, I see a few of the guys on here put the hammer into a guy on here with a slammed out e34 5 series with modern M5 look 20's a couple of weeks ago... I chose the Ruff Racing Wheel as they look like a factoryish style and don't look too big even though they're 20's because of the large polished dish. I think that wheels that have spokes that go right to the edge of the wheel and don't have a dish look a lot bigger (like my clubbie wheels) but I agree with the others, that type of modern wheel doesn't look that great on older BMW's Still have the standard stereo which is OK, it has a 6 stacker in the boot. Adam

After owning a Beemer you really can't compare them to a Holden. I have a 2004 Manual VY Clubsport which I got with 30,000km on the clock and have done quite a few what I call essential modifications. 1) Suspension - In Every commodore I've had including HSV's the ride is sh..t and have found Pedders to be an awesome replacement, still excellent ride quality even slammed. In the VY Clubbie I have adjustable Coil overs and have two sets of springs (one for track days) 2) Brakes - Replaced fronts with better rotors and pads from Race Brakes NZ 3) Headers if not HSV, (HSV have headers already) Exhaust, Silver Carbon Over The Radiator Air Intake (we make these for Paul Manuell Racing/Eastern Automotive) and full Dyno Tune and run on 98. Power has gone from 260kw standard to approx 325kw (dynoed 248.5 rear wheel kw) and truckloads more Torque. Without the mods they are very sluggish down low and my average fuel consumption for everyday driving is now 11.4 litres/100km compared to 16-17 litres/100km before the mods. Also compare that to 12.3 litres/100km for the 540i...! Braeden yes Commodores definately start rattling, they just don't have the build quality I'm afraid. I have owned 4 V8's in total all manual starting with a new special build Manual Station in 1999 and then a New VY SS IN 2003 as company cars. The wagon was a first of the new model (VT) and was always broken down with something in the shop every week, we sold it at 100km/ 3years and was starting to show its age for sure. Before the VY Clubbie I had a 1998 GTS which I bought with 100km on the clock and what a nightmare... main seal leaks, door trims rooted and leaking, diff blown, belts breaking just to name a few! I ownly got a BMW because I typed in V8 and Station Wagon keywords into google looking for a cheapish Holden V8 Wagon when I started working for myself and there was a E34 540i Wagon in Whangarei with 73000 miles on it. My father in Law had a NZ new 1994 530i with 180km on it and it drove like new so I went and drove the wagon and bought it on the spot. My VY Clubbie is a great car but you're still going to pay mid 30's for a decent one with low kms. Oh yeah and don't buy an Auto, they are pigs! Love the Manual and it goes hard and have great fun on the track but its expensive to maintain. Also I choose to drive the 540i wagon every day. But then I have the original purchase receipt for the wagon, the guy paid $159,000 in 1995 for it, so you can't compare it to a Holden at $75000. Would definately have an e39 540i though over the Clubbie as an every day driver. The biggest problem is I used to happy with a V8 Holden now I'm looking at Euro$$$..., the car I would really like is an e39 M5 Manual. Why are there bugger all of these for sale ever? I see a Silver one now on Trade Me... Adam

Arros E55 AMG Mercs are very nice, you can find a year 1999 ish import model with average Km for around 30K, which is good value , I was looking at one after I sold my last E34 540i Touring. But ideally you really want NZ new and low km's unfortunately they're hard to find so people still ask good money when they do sell. I ended up buying another E34 540i Touring instead, NZ new with 130km , lowered it with Vogtland Springs, stuck on Ruff Racing 20 x 8.5's all round and custom painted the wheel centres silver and polished the lips with 245/30/20 k107 Hankook Tyres, I drive it everyday and love it, it handles and goes hard! What else compares to an E34 540i for the money? I just had it serviced by Glenn at Botany Motor Worx and would definately recommend them, this would be the first time I have had any of my cars serviced for a long time where everything that I asked to be done was done and done properly. They fitted up the new updated Silver Indicator lights and disconnected the Camber link arm and secured in neutral position to stop the dash light coming on since the rear is lowered. And the price was very reasonable thanks Glenn. Heres some pics. Adam

Sold

Hey Creaver we're out in the Ku (Waiuku)

Hey everyone, If anyones interested I just listed on Trade Me the original factory Wheels and Tyres off my 540i Touring Wagon. They are 17" Hyper Silver with Polished Lip genuine BMW Motorsport. Price is $800.00 no reserve. See Trade Me Auction www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=156796674&ed=true 235/45/17 Dunlop SP Sport 3000 Low Profile performance tires with 90% tread left. All in great condition, one wheel only has some minor kerbing all the rest are mint. Can possibly arrange freight anywhere in NZ, please contact me for price. Thanks Adam

Hi BRENT HART535GE I just about bought a 99 E39 540i Touring late last year. Drove it for a day and was a very nice cruising car but prefered the e34. Your one would have to be a minter for me to swap Adam

Thanks for the comments on the wheels guys, the centres were originally black but I didn't think the black suited the silver car so got a mate at Darkside Customs to paint the centres silver and polish the lips. Cain yes I thought about the wheels being too big being 20 x 8.1/2's but am running Hankook k107 245/30/20 tires all round which ends up with a rolling diameter very similar to the 17" Motorsport wheels and 235/45/17 tires that were on there. Offset is perfect, no rubbing so am happy as.

Hey everyone, I have a e34 NZ new 540i Touring Wagon that I bought in January with 130000km. I've just lowered it and stuck on a set of hyper silver 20's with polished lip and need some expert help on the Self Leveling Rear Suspension. Have also tinted the windows and it already had a aftermarket rear muffler and cats removed (so last owner said) so sounds not bad. Traditionally I have been a Holden/HSV nut and yes I still have the 2003 manual clubsport sitting in the garage (wife now drives it) but I've got to say these Beemers are awesome. Would love a new one! This is my second e34 540i wagon, I sold my first one last year, it was an awesome car and then could not find anything to replace it, really regretted selling it! What other V8 station wagon can you buy for the money that goes and drives like these things? So when this one came up I had to buy it. I had major issues lowering the back of the first one as the self levelling suspension pumped itself back up to its standard ride height even with 20mm drop Vogtland lowered springs. So the back was really hard and jacked up compared to the front which looked very low and tight using 6 cylinder e34 springs. No-one seemed to know or could help me on lowering the self leveling so was never really happy with it. My mechanic disconnected the linkage lever but the "Self Leveling Suspension - See Owners Handbook" light on the dash would come on after 5 minutes and not go away. For this one I did some hunting around on the net and found full pictured article on the linkage and how it works. You only need very minor adjustments in the linkage arm which U bolts to the sway bar to get the ride height to drop. Keith from Suspension Progress supplied me another Vogtland Spring Kit (45mm drop front and 25mm drop rear) and have adjusted the linkage back to stop the self leveling cutting in at all as I want the back as low as possible. Problem is as soon as I stick any weight in the back and fill the tank with gas the Self Leveling Suspension Light comes on after about 5 minutes. In the handbook it says theres a camber warning switch which triggers the suspension light if the camber goes over a certain angle. I presume by adding a bit of weight in the back its just dropping it enough to trigger the camber switch? Does anyone know how this works or to adjust or take this off? Is the Camber adjustable on these wagons? i.e. when doing a wheel alignment? Heres some pics. Thanks Adam