wild_weston

Well can't wait for mine to arrive. Will be putting it in myself and will use the re-progamming the area solution form another thread on this forum. Jochen, I do have a few questions for you: 1) I have a M3 steering wheel in my car (full lower part, as opposed to dual spoke, and tip tronic gear controls for added fun). It has all the multi function buttons but these don't seem to be connected. Is it possible to connect them (radio controls and possibly cruise control) or do I need some extra parts (I have to assume the original steering wheel wasn't multi-function)? Pic of steering wheel: 2) I've noticed that my speakers suffer from bass vibration which is really noticable at low volumes. They are original speakers, do they need some kind of maintenance or product (I have seen noise reduction products at car stereo websites which are suppose to fix this) to stop the vibration? I don't fancy changing them as I would assume they are high quality ones. 3) What does a band expander look like and will it be attached to the wiring at the back of the stereo (if I have one)? Thanks

Ta for the replies botanay and elmarco. I'll try repco next weekend. Cheers

Hi All, just wondering if anyone knows the replacement size for wipers on the E46, and whether the drivers and passengers are the same size. My wipers are a bit juddery right now so want to replace them. Had a look on the back of the packets in REPCO and couldn't find any for the E46. If you know the sizing please post a reply. Thanks

Elmarco, just had a check on a website for how to change the radio. Pretty simple. Take the dash lining out of the passenger side, using a screwdriver with tape over the blade to avoid scratching the panel. Then remove the panel around the stereo. Then remove the two bolts/ screws holding the radio in place. Pull out old radio and plug in new one and put everything back together (the panels just snap back into place). Easy enough.

Yup got mine from him too. Very good price. I reckon there is a market for them here, with all the jap imports. Especially if the OEM price he (germanaudiotech) quoted is true. I know there are a lot better stereos out there but the filler part you have to get looks wrong in the E46 (and only comes in black plastic). Happy to stick with the abnormally sized BMW radios for now.

Welcome, joined not long ago myself. Have a 2000 E46 330 motorpsort. Be happy to swap findings with you on anything around the 330. Hybrid is the expert for the E46 if you have any complicated questions. Car pics are essential.

Looks like exactly what I was after as well. Just signed upto ebay and bought one. Don't worry elmarco - he has three units (of the same type) for sale so I haven't stolen it off you.

Thanks for all the replies. I think I will try Page first. Will definately say it was recommended by bimmersport. Ta

Just wondering if anyone knows a good independant BMW mechanic place in or around wellington. I need to get a new vanos unit put on an E46 and I want to make sure that the mechanics know the E46 (so they do it right). Otherwise I'll have to go to the stealership and pay twice the normal cost. Thanks for any replies.

You're having the same issues I was warned about. I was going to get a mongoose M80G installed in my e46. Not able to in the end due to the fact that it can't link up with the indicator messages (it doesn't understand the signals). Looked at getting a dynatron D4800 after that but found out that would have the same problem. I only want to install an upgrade kit (works off original central locking system) otherwise I will lose all the remote key functions (such as seat and heating settings by key unlock). I was told that Dynatron have now come up with upgraded software for the D4800 and are now testing it. It should be available in the next six months. Should take away all your E46 alarm problems, if it works.

The pins were at the 10 to 2 style. I didn't see any quarter to three ones. You may have better luck on the american sites or try the DIY method above. On the DIY method, I think that this will work fine. From what I can tell they just used this method at the bulb factory (light silver coating on an amber bulb). Might even try it myself as I couldn't find any 5 watt side inidcator bulbs of this type. Now changed the rears as well. Easy as to do. Just press the release button and the bulb assembly just pops out of the boot. I found that both my original rear bulbs had flaked off most of their amber coating, like the one in the front. No biggie but for anyone reading this you may want to check yours anyway as they seem to be original stock ones so more people could have this flaking. Will only fail a WOF if they are completely flaked but you might want to check to avoid the flakes hanging around the bottom of your light assemblys though. Last tip, the REPCO bulbs are a dollar more than the supercheap auto ones.

Finally got round to picking some of these up. Got a pack of 2 for $15 from supercheap auto. REPCO had some as well. Really easy and value for money bit of appearance change. If you have already got clear indicators then you might as well get silver/ amber bulbs as well. Girlfriend thought I was wasting my time but showed her the difference after I had changed one and even she agreed it looked better. They also seem to flash brighter than the amber bulbs. Should have taken some photos at this point but forgot in my rush to get both done. Took me half an hour in all. Going to do the tail indicators next and try and find some bulbs for the side ones as well. For anyone going to do this here are some things I learnt: The bulbs are 21 watt. These are the only silver/ amber ones I could find, which is fortunate. On E46 pre-facelift models, you have to insert a flat bladed (not phillips) screwdriver into the hole just above and behind the indicator, in the engine bay sill. Press down and you should find a groove. It will start to give. Press down harder and slightly towards the front of the car and the indicator will just pop out. From there it is easy to unscrew the bulb housing and then the bulb, with your hands. When handling the bulbs use a tissue or cloth so you don't get any dirt or grime on the glass. I only mention the above because I was working from the owners manual and it didn't make these things very clear (no pun intended). Only problems I ran into was using a phillips screwdriver at first, which obviously misses the groove. Then I found that one of my existing bulbs had shed nearly all of its amber coating. It had also come off its runner so I couldn't get it out of the housing. Had to smash it in the end and use needle nose pliers to remove the metal part. Apart from that all good.

Thanks for the replies. One DIY and one where to buy. Being a bit lazy and being sure that I would end up spraying my whole car silver, I think I'll try the repco route first. Thanks

Apparantly they flash amber but are silver/ clear when not flashing. So they are legal but don't give that dull orange look in your clear inidcators. I've seen them on american part sites but can't find anywhere to get them from in NZ (or I am being a bit blind). Anyone got these and if so where from? Cheers

Cheers for the info. I was wondering why the dealer said no. I've rang mongoose and they said RRP was 550 installed. Going to try a couple of mongoose suppliers to see if I can get this price. Thanks for all your help.

Now that is a nice car Hybrid. Bit flasher than mine for sure. Here is the link to the pics of mine off trade me. Got it cheap from a really good bloke up in Auckland who used it as a company car. I've only had it a month, everything seems fine on it but always a bit nervous with a new car for the first few months (just in case you find big bad problems). http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....showtopic=15451 Mavrick I did a bit of homework on the E46s before I bought one and the common faults seem to be: Cooling systems - especially the expansion tank blowing due to the thermostat below it sticking. If this happens you can seriously mess up your engine if you don't get it fixed. Windows - plastic bits break so easily, inside the door. Reverse gear - can mess up on some gearboxes which costs a lot to fix. I think I'll try the tip from Hybrid to avoid this. Niggles: Stereo - speakers vibrate a bit on low bass. Head unit ok, but if you want to put in an aftermarket one then you need a new bit of dash. Air Con - a bit over zealous at times. Single climate heating - was dual climate in the E36. Keys - cost a lot of money. Make sure you get a car with more than one. When you buy a new one you then have to pay more to get it programmed the way you want. Preferably you want two remote master keys (especially if your missus will drive it), they remember all the settings last time the key was used (seat position, climate setting etc) so you don't constantly have to change everything when someone else drives it. Apart from that they are all good. Hope this helps with your choice.

Hi there, I just upgarded to an E46 330 motorsport from an E36 328 a month ago. Was thinking about it for a while, finally took the plunge and am very happy with my new car. I managed to pick mine up for $14k with 140k on the odo. I know you are after a manual but mine came with tiprtronic paddles on the steering wheel, when you are in sports manual mode there isn't that much difference to a true manual (apart from not moving your left leg). I don't think these were standard but it prooves they can be retro-fitted - just stick ina M3 steering wheel and link it all up. With $20k you should be able to pick up a 330 motorsport. They all seem to start at $20k but you can probably get them down a bit from the asking price. You should obviously look for one with all the parts you want already fitted, msports susp good wheels etc. Only a couple of things to fix on mine. Just need a new rear window motor (these fail a lot it seems), and a couple of plastic bits from the front bumper (spotlight surround etc). I would advise going for the 330 above the others engines for the power but also for the basic spec you get. The 330s tend to be fully loaded where as the other models have less, the closer you get to the 318. As always with the BMWs, look for service history. If it has been well maintained you shouldn't have too many problems. Only other thing I would say with an E46 is that everything seems to be electric and run by computers within the car, from the keys to the lights. Bit of a pain if you want to get your default settings changed as you have to take it to a dealer. Apart from that they're fine. Regards

Anyone have any ideas where I can pick up an EOM alarm system. Obviously I can get it through BMW dealers but they mark up their part prices quite a bit. Seems easy enough to install. Cheers

I'm after a rear drivers window motor myself (2000 e46). I was going to try a couple of scrapyards this weekend to see if they had any. I know that there is an on-line second-hand parts system that garages use so I might try an independent grage as well. BMW have qutoed $350. Cheers

I would be dubious if I were you. I work in back office stock market circles and if there is one thing I have learnt it is to "buy low". While I by no means think that the property market is in the state that the papers would have you beleive - I do think it is not far off. I would well and truly wait until the papers are reporting record repossesions before I bought an apartment for investment purposes (they are the highest risk). I would go and see a finacial advisor if I was you and see what alternatives there are (but no finance company investments for sure). Give AMP or AXA a ring and see what property is doing in about six months.

Thanks for the compliments. I'm more than happy with the E46. Had a suprise the other day though. Took it into the beemer garage to find out why the rear drivers side window wasn't working. Pretty obvious in the end - there was no motor in there. Don't you just love buying second hand cars. Always come up with little suprises like that. I thought (was told) it was a broken switch and now I will have to spring for around $600 for a new motor. Has to be done though as the current position of the window is just a bit shy of the full reach and it lets in a small amount of water when raining/ or car wash. No biggie to me, just unexpected. I think I'll take it down to the independent garage (page european) to see what their costing is first though. Sorry to hear that you have got rid of the E60 (nice cars) but good luck with finding a good E30.

I was trying this on my E36. The E46 is fine, talked to a chap at Jeff Gray BMW the other day and he reckons that the E46 continuily adapts (like it says in the owenrs handbook) to your driving style. It seems pretty fine to me but apparantly will adapt more to my style of driving over time. Don't think this is the same for the E36 though. Tried on the E36 but didn't even hear the sound after 30 secs so it doesn't work for me. I will recommend the transmission CPU reset to the next owner. Haven't got the link to the thread on bimmerfest.

Had a look last night and they are factory. Bonus.

Not sure if the HID is factory or not, would assume not. It's had quite a few added extras done such as the pedals, K&N Filter, aftermarket exhaust, mirrors etc. The steering wheel is off a later model, the seller told me this, only the tip-tronic paddles are linked up. Might get the multi function steering wheel buttons linked up in time. Only real thing that needs doing is sorting out the rear drivers electric window. Doesn't move at the mo. Yup, I've heard that malaysian imports can be iffy at times (no worse than the old SA imports though). The previous owner had it from 20k so hopefully all issues have been ironed out (fingers crossed).

Great that you heard the noise. Let me know if it changes the jump. Hopefully it does and I reckon there are a lot of people out there with the same issue.