wild_weston

Hi, I used to post on bimemrsport occasionally. I always logged in every day to find out any new nuggets of info on how to fix any problems with (or improve) my car. Bimmersport is great for that with members like Jochen etc on here to help. Two things happened which made me use this site less. Firstly I got into motorbikes. However, secondly, while attempting to take part in a debate of "which bmw to buy next?" thread, I was shouted down by a member [members name removed]. As far as I could tell he is one of the more regular members here. His issue was that I appeared to being snobby because I posted that "there was quite a dollar difference between an E30 and an E46" and asked the original thread starter (not [members name removed]) whether he had come into some money lately. My original post was a tongue in cheek comment with an element of genuine interest in there (I had recently been made redundant and had had a cash windfall). Don't get me wrong - this wasn't just a reply to my original post, that i'm talking about, but going back and forth on the thread for about a day. With the aformentioned member, calling me a snobby bastard who is "more suited to the bmw owners club website", getting away with unsociable comments to, relatively, new members. Anyway long story long (bored myself already) - "In crowd" not earning a warning for being a nob to new members (who are trying to become part of the community). Pissed me off no end and made me not want to be part of the community anymore. It's not always the boy racers being idiots that ruin a site, it's sometimes an "in crowd" of members that attack new members which put people off websites. My posting is aimed to give constructive feedback on your site. Cheers Edited for spelling Edit (Bravo): Removed members name. Lets not let this thread get personal. Your point is still clear regardless.

Suprised this hasn't already been raised in a forum as I also had this on an e36 cd stacker (so I assume it is a pretty common occurence). I have searched but I couldn't find any threads. Anyway, I think one of the CDs has become jammed in the stacker. Head unit comes up with "CD error" when selecting stacker cds (pressing cd button twice). Last time (e36) I took it up to a car audio place and they fixed it for free. Was just wondering if anyone on here knows the trick that they used so I can fix it myself. Thanks

Hi, pics of part as discussed. It is the sunglasses compartment from the centre dash console. It is from an e46 sedan but I pretty sure that it fits coupes as well. Bought of trade me for $75 but it was exactly like the one I already have. Couple of fingernail marks (which you can see in the pick). These are not deep though so if you are going to paint you shouldn't see them afterwards.

I'm with state and pay $500pa with State (330 valued at $15k and age of 33). One thing to bear in mind is that in a previous thread there was quite an interesting point on the repair quality difference between insurance companies. It seemed from that thread that State cap the repairers' chargeable amount so the repair quality might be lower than that through other companies (which just pay whatever the repairer charges as long as it is in line with estimates). State also seems to make you go to certain repairers rather than letting you choose your own. Personally I haven't needed repairs yet so can't say for sure. Just a thing to bear in mind when comparing different comanies quotes.

Hi there, If it is the dark blue coupe in wellington then that looks like a real bargain. However, as people here will always tell you - regardless of how good it looks, ALWAYS get a pre-check done by a BMW specialist. If it is the one in wellington then use Jeff Gray BMW (Don't rely on an AA or VTNZ pre purchase check as they are not as familiar with what to look for). As to what to look out for yourself, I stumbled over this page the other week and it seems to answer all the questions I see which come up from time to time. http://www.bimmerfest.com/wiki/index.php?title=BMW_E46 I know it is a link to another BMW forum but the administrators might want to think about making it a sticky? Cheers

Just noticed this on trademe: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-180941989.htm Looks ridiculously good value. Seems to tick all the boxes - NZ New, Manual, FSH and all for $15k Was tempted to look into it myself as soon as I saw the advert but running two 330s might be a wee bit expensive. Only thing it doesn't seem to have is Xenon headlights.

I looked into retro-fitting the BMW factory alarm into my E46. Took it to the delaers and they said no (as it doesn't have the software). This seems to contradict what is on the bimmer diy forum who say the same as Jochen (and it is a DIY install which looks quite easy). You can buy the retro fit alarm from USA but it needs to be initialised by the dealership. As my dealership was pretty adamant they couldn't do it I decided to not go any further with this. Bimmer diy link: http://www.bimmerdiy.com/ Other options are after-market alarms that work of the current central locking system, so you don't lose you driver seat setting from your remote key. Dynatron does one and mongoose does one. Only problem with the E46 and possibly your 5 series is that the central locking data transfer from the IBUS is pretty sophisticated in these cars. Hence the alarms have to be programed to understand it (unlike electric pulses which most cars have). Anyone can feel free to correct me on any of the above as I'm not an expert on this, just repeating what I was told. I contacted dynatron after the mongoose one wouldn't work - they were checking by my vin to see if it would work but then never got back to me. Other than that you can just get a normal after market alarm which doesn't link up to your central locking, but you would have to deactivate it and unlock your doors seperately. Hope this helps.

Somewhere between 16 and 19 at a guess. You could go higher (if you went to dealer prices).

I agree with Glenn, the larger engines tend to be quite economical, especially on hills. That said I am still mightily impressed by the economy that another member said he was getting from his 120d (makes mine look like an american gas guzzler). E46s are pretty heavy cars, I personally found the E36 320 slightly underpowered for its weight and would assume its the same for the E46s. All in all I would definately recommend going around a few car yards and having test drives before making your mind up, it's a very individual choice. 3 & 5s are pretty similar spec wise (around those years) just that the 5 has a bit more interior space. For $15k you should be able to pick up exactly what you are looking for. Just make sure it meets your "wishlist", in terms of specifications (M Sport, leather seats, multi function steering wheel etc...). Happy hunting. Edited for spelling.

There are a few black coupes that come up on trade me. Depends what you are after in spec. Do consider a sedan in black as there really isn't that much difference (looks wise). I can honestly say that you'd like the easiness of driving an E46 but the Z3 m coupe would definately be more fun. I don't think prices are really falling - just dealers are holding onto cars longer. The vert does look about $10k too cheap, I'd agree with zenetti and get it fully checked over if you are contemplating it. I picked up my 2000 330I motorsport (black) for $14k about 6 months ago. It was about 4 to 10 grand cheaper than others at the time. Just shows you can pick up a bargain if you are prepared to wait (and take a punt on a high mileage model, as in my case). Not too many probs with mine. Only thing I had to get done was to replace the breather valve (last week). Everything else I've had done has been optional. Good hunting for your new car. Oh, and this e-mail and my previous ones are by no means "calling you out" (as Sam so nicely put it). Was just wondering if you had had a windfall lately, as you have been looking at some nice cars. I just got a nice amount of redundnacy myself and would love to go and get a M3 but the sensible side of me thinks that the mortgage needs to be reduced (boring I know).

Exactly, I know that E46s are outdated versus the newer beemers and I already said that mine had 148k on it, so it's not worth a fortune. Don't know how I came over as being a snob. As I said I think I just touched a nerve there.

Didn't mean to offend, think I touched a nerve there. Sorry about that. Would prefer that you don't get abusive though - was just making a light hearted comment.

Have you won the lottery lately? Going from an e30 to an e46 convertoble is quite a dollar diff. The vert looks like a really good bargain to me. 66k is no biggie at all - my 330i has 148k and is still going strong.

Could be your vanos. DR vanos (search on google), provides reconditioned vanos units. This is where the sounds like a stone in a tin can between 2k and 3k rpms.I got the dr vanos solution and besian seals. Helpedwith the noise but didn't go completely (did seem to regain some lost power though). Otherwise my only other idea would be alternator.

I had a BX 14 back in the day. Looked exactly like your brothers. Mine didn't have that digital rev counter though. Strangest dash I have ever run into, but quirkiness factor is a selling point for these cars. Even the fact that the indicator was a switch on the dashboard, rather than a stalk. I remember at the time that the BX 16v GTI was a boy racers wet dream (in the UK). Enjoy the car. Cheers

E46 was quite a significant advancement over the E36. It is a more refined car but at first received a lot of complaints about reducing "driver feedback". In general terms the E46 does a lot of the work for you. If this is what you like, just throwing the car into a corner without any nervousness - then it is a must. If you like seat of your pants driving then stick with the E30. Most people seem to prefer the E46 as an everyday car and keep an E30 for their weekend fun car "driver involvement". For me I would definately say buy an E46. I've got an 330I and you just can't do anything wrong in it. Doesn't feel as heavy as it is and it has oodles of power. Autos are not necessarily a bad thing when you are looking at 2.5 or 3.0, as the engines are torquey enough that it won't get fustrating (plus you can always over-ride the gearbox choice in sports mode). I'd say go for the 330ci or 325ci if I was you. Personally think that the E46 compact was ugly as sin with those weird headlights. 330i is fairly practicle (tourings are as rare as hens teeth) but 330ci has got slightly better styling. That said I reckon a compact with a 2.5 litre would give a three litre a run for its money. In terms of whaling there generally is none as long as you get a motorsport. E46 has it's little problems as with all types of beemers. Main culprits seem to be window regulators breaking (plastic parts that become brittle) & cooling system failure (plastic expansion tanks that become brittle and thermostats that get stuck on or off). Hope this helps you with your decsion.

Also, the coupe bonnet won't fit the sedan. Same with headlights (as they are a different shape on the side which joins to the indicator). You'll need to find a sedan bonnet. I've seen a few on trademe recently. If you have a search under e46 I think someone has recently broken up a E46 sedan for parts. You might be able to do a bulk deal with them. Link: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/SearchResu...der=expiry_desc Cheers

E46 got a facelift in 92. All that happened was a change to the front bumper and the turn signals pointed upwards at the side (as opposed to downwards, up to 91). Your car is definately a pre-facelift model. That is all cosmetically wise. Loads of people such as Jochen and Hybrid can help you if it comes to electronic differences between the pre and post facelift. For example you can't just stick a post facelift radio in a pre facelift car as they have different plugs. The headlights didn't change, just the turn signals - as far as I know. Also note that if the car didn't have HID headlights from new, you will need a breaker circuit (?) if you decide to put HID ones on. Otherwise it will always trigger a dashlight error signal due to the voltage feedback. Lots of pre-facelift turn signals and headlights on trade me but I reckon you're better getting a complete set from a car breakers. If you are in any doubt of whether you are getting the right part just type in your VIN into realoem.com and that will tell you the correct part numbers for your car. Link: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/ Good luck with the car.

+1 That is definately the ugliest car BMW has ever made (thank god they didn't make them for long). Looks like a cheap knock off of an alpha. Compacts definately not in keeping with the BMW brand. The new 1 series is a slight improvement, but the jury is still out on whether I like them.

I am after the lower part in the below picture (the one with the M logo on it). Preferably in black. Had one lined up on trade me but my autobid failed. I have an existing one in titanium silver but it has some scratches on it (happy to part exchange). Cheers

ROR. That is f@cking funny.

Not sure, but you can reset them manually by holding the indicator stalk button (not sure of the correct name) in for a couple of seconds.

Spent a week in manukau this month. Was a bit worried about it but it was an unavoidable trip (missus having cancer surgery). Not as bad as I thought it would be, compared to places in London I've seen. That said I don't think I'd like to live there though. Give me wellington any day.

Might not help but I had the same thing on my E46 (totally different car I know). Mine was that it pooled water into the rear footwell. I finally got to the bottom of mine, when parked uphill (with the front higher) water was running into it's usual channel to the right of the windscreen (drivers side). However a plastic part was broken off at the back and there was lots of debris blocking the normal run channel. The debris was causing the water to pool in there and it was running out of the back (due to the broken plastic part) then it runs down the back of the firewall and was getting into the interior. It was entering next to the pedals but running to the back of the car and pooling in the footwell. I had an inch of rainwater sitting there after a particularily wet weekend. Might be a long shot, but check that your usual run channels aren't blocked. And that you haven't got any broken parts like mine had. The interiors aren't sealed everywhere just where they (bmw) expect the water go be running. Good luck with finding your leak - it takes an age I can tell you. Best way to dry it out is to use a high pwered wet and dry vac and stick the nozzle directly over the floormat holes (if the E30s have any at the back). Worked a treat on mine, and saves you having to pull the carpets up. Cheers

For me it's the noise like a powerboat engine when I even touch the accelerator. Not loud and tacky like a big bore exhaust, just low and ominous. I too am a member of the "I stare at my car far too much" club.