jom

Need a bit more info Andy are they wall batts or ceiling should say on the wrapping? If wall batts should be no problem if ceiling might be wrong size and need to be cut plus protrude out passed the stud edge and course some problem if you are going to line that area later. The reason is the wall batts are generally sized to fit the stud spacing most homes are either 600 or 400 centres . The last time I fitted these the wall batt rating was 2.8 and ceiling 3.2 or greater I believe and at 2.8 one could start to feel some resistance the gib sheet was being fitted. To get the max out of the batts and your time in fitting them they need to be fitted neatly not compressed or loose in the spaces. Also does the garage have building paper or not?

Love "ceiling might be wrong size". Just resize your roof then. :-)

Seriously, with a vapour barrier, any insulation is going to be an improvement....

Find that hard to believe. It just seems like the glass, doors and everything wouldnt line up either.

It is the absolute truth. I was working there on body jigs at the time. Not widely publicised for obvious reasons! I think the last month or so of production was fixed.

Nope, total rubbish -

I've measured 4 - all the same. You?

It does happen. All NZ built Mitsi Chariots had badly fitting tailgates because the roof panel was 10mm too far forwards. Sometimes it just isn't noticed.

Jo, can you elaborate on the "Chapman idea" which Chapman would this be?

Colin. Check out Elan. Europa, Elite....

I don't know if it's true, but I was told that the drivers side lean on an E36 was a factory body jig error that was never fixed. The E36s I've measured are all about 6-8mm down on that side.

I'm using motorsport springs and koni adjustables - have had them for 10 years and still good. Stocks are ultra expensive for konis, got mine from Demon Tweeks in the UK with springs for less than Stocks damper only price. Just checked DT's price - a set (without shipping etc.) is $891.38.

If you want it to behave on the road and not ground out at the front all the time, keep to Msport springs. I have finally returned to the Chapman idea - soft springs and stiff dampers. Seems to work.

The 888s wil give you 1-1.5 secs a lap, but you really need to run stiffer dampers first

$50 + post?

I have a workng pump, but the level sensor is broken. Any use?

Jo M do you know where from? I'm hunting for a set of tyres atm and tossing up between buying locally or importing

http://www.tyrecity.co.nz/

I'm running the same sizes on my 328i, went from Re001s to PS3s. If you can sacrifice a little less dry grip, but get a better ride and better wet grip, go for the PS3s over the Re003s. Consumer have just done a test on 225/45/17s - worth a look.

PS my son found 225/45/17 PS3s for $200 in Auckland a couple of months ago.

Just a thought - there were a few hybrid E36s produced in 1996 and you may have an OBDII ECM. Get it scanned to make sure...

Russell - I have some lower softer rears which you're willing to try - worked for me. PM me

Any of the sensors can start to malfunction when it gets hot. Clear the codes, drive it hot, scan again.

I drove a 218i a couple of days ago and that had a "Luxury" badge on the front wings. A bit tasteless, I thought...

You won't need to remove the valve cover. The tensioner is in the side of the front cover - it tensions the long chain from the crank to the cams, it's not the chain between the cams

Buy a new spring and compare lengths. Mine was 5mm shorter than the new one.

A new timing chain tensioner spring and washer cost me $11 from the dealer (!) It's a 5 minute job. Worth trying first.

Just black paint that has worn off in places I believe... Might look like shiny bits in the photo.

No Worries. Mine have never looked that shiny

If those front springs are plated - especially chromed - I'd run away and hide. They are not stock, don't use them as the plating can cause embrittling and stress raisers.

The most successful buys that I've had have beem imports - but I do go for the best available (and pay for it). I've now had my E36 328 coupe for 10 years - and the biggest problems were what was done by the importers for compliance - e.g. Indian (GAR) brake pads and discs. You know it's a problem when the ABS won't work and there is more metal on the wheels than brake dust...

Other than that, rear wheel bearings (because of staggered wheels?) and then standard E36 replacement items.

Get it checked before you buy it, if they say " We've never seen one this good" then go for it.

Added to that the imports generally have no paint faults (concrete roads in Japan)

Like everybody said, it's down to condition. Now there is a 3 month warranty on every car from a dealer you don't have to take it for a 100km blast to check the head gasket!

Is the box Jatco or ZF?

E36 pump has a plug, not spade terminals. Got one from Milland for $46.

Or these guys, used to be next to Road and Track in the Hutt

http://totalbodyshop.co.nz/

The forum won't allow comprehensible data like a .png file.

Sorry, I don't want to copy the entire Consumer report. I was merely trying to point to some actual data rather than hearsay and rants.

'Consumer" couldn't do an objective tyre test because they don't have the facilities, resources or expertise, they are no better than the totally subjective "consumer based surveys. Which are just subjective rubbish.

" nine out of 10 consumers liked their henkels bier worst flaccid under cooked and drowned in ketchup and in a stale bun"

Not only that some of their criteria are typically meaningless and totally skew the results. Having price as one of the criteria is the worst offender.

noise and comfort are nest on the list.

An objective test does specific performance assessment preferably in a blind test scenario and then adds commentary on noise comfort etc in the summary take a look at the tire rack tests as an example.

Well they measured this data somewhere....

Average stopping distance - 205/55 R16 Speed Shortest distance (m) Longest distance (m) Difference (m) Dry braking 50km/h 9.54 - Bridgestone Potenza Adrenalin RE002 10.65 - Michelin Energy XM2 1.17 80km/h 23.47m - Achilles ATR Sport 27.03 - Nexen Classe Premiere CP661a 3.55 Wet braking 50km/h 13.65 - GT Radial Champiro BAX2 17.62m - Kumho KH27 3.98 80km/h 34.04 - GT Radial Champiro BAX2 Nexen Classe Premiere CP661a 7.91