JohnM575

Hi all, So I have had the E36 lowered on B&G springs which offer a 50mm drop at the front and a 20mm drop in the rear. Mag & Turbo did the installation but I have had to take the car back there 3 times now to try remedy the problem with no luck! The car is booked in again for next week to try sort it. I emphasised before purchase that I did not ANY issues with rubbing as I am after function rather than form. In response they effectively "guaranteed" there would be no rubbing of any sort with this kit (even fully loaded). Rubbing is occuring at the rear on the inner arch, and also did a bit on the bumper, where they have trimed back some plastic. The front right also rubs at full lock, very minor but guess VTNZ will still pull you up for it...? Left front doesn't seem to be showing any rubbing whatsoever. Having looked under the each of the rear arches, it seems to appear that the guards are free of rubbing, and sidewall of the tyre does not show any signs of rubbing either. This is all happening without a loaded car on country roads. Once I have 1 or 2 mates in the car, it will do it in 40-50km/h zones on suburb/city streets over the slightest of bumps. Now, for those who have lowered e36's with either same or similar kits, have you experienced any problem with 225/50/16's ET37? What would you recommend Mag & Turbo/myself doing to sort this problem?

Sorry, I should have said, anyone had rubbing issues with the car being lowered only slightly? As you can probably see from the picture, it isn't the most aggressive drop seen on an e36 (20mm at the rear)...

Ok, first mod done! So I did my homework and asked round various places for the best offering for springs for the E36 sedan. I had intended on getting a set of H&R's, but Mag & Turbo said the next shipment would be at least 3 months away, so opted for the B&G sport springs (Mag & Turbo offered the most competitive pricing for springs, install and 2 x wheel alignments & proximity to home) . I did not want to comprimise on quality and go down the shitty Jamex route with linear rate springs, and am glad I didn't. According to the manufacturer, the drop is 50mm front, 20mm rear. I have been having some minor rear quarter and bumper rubbing issues on the left rear with the car carrying a pretty reasonable load(right rear is absolutely free of rubbing). Mag & Turbo have been sorting out by trimming the plastic inside the bumper a little each time. They said there should be no rubbing whatsoever with the car fully loaded; car load of mates,full tank of gas and gear included, so will be sorting this out over the coming weeks. Here are the before and after pics: Before: After: Overall, I am very happy with the way the car now handles. The progressive rate springs makes the cars ride round town very forgiving and almost feels stock, whilst out on the open road it offers a lot more resistance and has removed the sofa-like handling when being pushed. I do not know the offset of the wheels, but has anyone else had rubbing issues with 225/50/16's on an E36 sedan?

Thanks for the advice Darren. I will sort out a K&N filter to be installed at the next service. Now just have to find a stockist of H&R springs in Auckland... If the short shift kit wears synchro's, would I be best going with the Z3 1.9 shift kit then (which is less agressive than the z3m kit)?

Hi all, I have just purchased a 94 E36 325i 4 door manual and was after some information and wisdom from those in the know. I am looking at doing a few cheap mods to start off to improve the car. I have narrowed it down to the following: Z3/Z3M Short shift kit - Current stock setup is very sloppy and lacks precision whilst changing gears. Which would be the better option - the Z3 or Z3M kit?Z3M too notchy? Stiffer springs - While I understand to do the suspension properly you should really do springs/dampners all at once, I don't have the budget so looking at a short term fix to stiffen up the car slightly a give it a little drop without raising the eyebrows of police/vtnz. I have heard Jamex springs are not too flash, so wondering what alternatives there are that are readily avaliable in NZ? H&R/Blistein? K&N Filter - Really worth doing? I'm not expecting a hp gain that is even really noticeable...or is it? If you could share any other mods that you believe are worthwhile that would be greatly appreciated!

x3. Our family owns a 96 C36, thus have done a few miles in it , and struggle to see how the C36 is a much worse value for money car compared to the 540i.Whilst it is an AMG , its intention was never to tackle the likes of the E36 M3 or M5 (which many people believe it was meant to), as Apex said , its purpose was to be a tourer with the options such as full electric seats , Bose sound system , Sat Nav, only avaliable in auto e.t.c . Try selling a 540i now or even in 5-10 years compared to a C36 and one would note there would be a significant resale value difference between the two.

Silver Star Farm (Wayne & Christine van der Star) 76 Waitakere Road, Waitakere, Auckland Phone: 025 942 068, Res: 810 8102, Fax: 810 8201 Dismantling and wrecking of Mercedes My family have gone through 3xW124 Wagons and always had top quality second hand spares readily avaliable and stock a lot of modern stuff as well so I'm sure they will be able to do you a good deal for the parts you are after.

Hi there, Since August 05 up until October this year our family has only clocked up 8,000km in our 96 750il.Would the lack of use and lowering of the charge of the battery have something to do with a significant amount of the pixels dying out in the air conditioning temperature display and in the tacho readout where there is a digital display of time/mpg/average speed etc.And how easily can this problem be fixed?Costly? We have had to recharge the battery a few times due to its lack of use as sometimes it would only get used once every 4-5 months and had a feeling this might have caused the problem , but if not , opinions would be great!

Pics will come tomorrow when I pull the camera out Info?Its as stated a 1996 C36 , at purchase had done 86k , now down 116k.Have had for around 4 years now and we have never had a problem with it.The car is stock minus the catalytic converter being removed.Sits on the standard 17" AMG monoblocks but am in the process of per swaying the old man to buy a set of the 18" Monoblocks , which give it a real tough look.With the car only clocking up 30k in the past 4 years it has had no problems at all apart from the central locking key packing in once , which immobilized the car but wasn't too much of a hassle as it happened at home and the guys from EC Mercedez came out as sorted it out pronto (highly recommended Mercedes specialists) .

Trademe?

whoever has the cash should definitely front up and grab it.We have a 1996 C36 and from my driving experience are definitely the best packaged performance saloon of their age, a heap of stopping power (brakes of S600 Coupe), solid gearbox(again out of the S600 Coupe), wicked sounding and performing engine and impressive handling for a sedan.The 94's do have a uglier interior but all things aside , your still getting a very cheap performance sedan!

Hi all, Joined up here as I have a few mates who are signed up here who are Bimmersport members and is also a good source of info/tips with all things BMW.I am on the lookout for a E30-E36 325i Manual or possible conversion car and as the old MB 300TE isn't quite doing it for me anymore John