Lubed

Sounds like your boot lock actuator has stripped out, pull the boot lid trim off and check its operation with the boot up ,close the latch manually by hand with a screwdriver then push the opening button.Check for the grinding noise from the actuator.

It is possibly a wheel bearing like you have mentioned or it could be something completly different... prob best to get it confirmed by a mechanic in a workshop as its near impossible to diagnoise a noise over the internet.

I hear what your saying and agree fully.... manners dont cost anything but i suppose advertising on a site like this your always going to get a few time wasters.All you can do is keep that chin up and carry on with the good customers.

Interesting theory on the cats blocking, how did older cars with cats that never had a air pump in the system get on?

Yeah its a fresh air pump, it takes air from the intake and pumps it through the head into the exhuast ports from cold start up to help the cats work faster therefore lowering emissions.Later generations use a electric pump.

From working in a BMW dealership for 6 years i have come across this noise in the v8 M62 on numerious occasions as have many other dealerships around the country and as i had advised " the1 " we have never had a single engine fail as a result. This engine has proven extremely strong and is fitted to the 5,7 and X5 without any issues coming about from this noise.The only time i have seen one of these engines fail is from overheating due to driver error.The false comments made regarding this issue can be extremely damaging to a companys image and had i not read this post no one would be the wiser and once again a dealership would be branded the enemy.If " the 1 "would like to gain the slightest shread of respect a face to face apology would not go wasted.

Yeah sent a private e-mail to him of what was going on last night hoping he might man up and retract his comments.If this person would like to speak to me then give us a call at work and ask for Ian in the workshop

Its about time to set this thread straight as a number of incorrect statements have been made by the person who started this thread.How do i know this... well im the mechanic from Jerry Clayton BMW who checked the engine noise in the mentioned 540i. This person did not get a prepurchase check done as mentioned or pay for the diagnosis of the noise, they have not been in touch with the company or receive a free service and money back as stated.You try do someone a favour and look what happens

As a general rule when big end bearings start to fail the knocking noise is more evident with the engine under load rather than at idle.Maybe it would be wise to keep the slagging of yet another workshop to yourself untill the evidence of a faulty bearing is actually before you.

Probibly best to get the engine spot less first then run up a few kms then recheck.Oil filter cap O-rings can seap and as you have mentioned the vacume pump o-rings do have a tendency to leak, both the o-ring between the pump and the head plus the pump back plate o-ring.Also the cap (looks like a bearing cap once the rocker cover has been removed)at the rear of the head over the vacume pump can leak which can be removed cleaned and resealed with a very thin film of sealant.Parts required: 2x o-rings, rocker cover gasket,2x spark plug tubes that go between rocker cover and head.

As for this guy... what a hater.It appears he does not have the bottle to make his own thoughts on this topic known.

Looks like a few cages have been rattled over this thread.... I dont as you have put it " think I am so right" Im mearly stating a fact based on knowledge from more than a few of years in the motor trade. I fully agree that for maximum power a well tuned manifold is required... thats not the original point that i was making but you have to remeber we are mostly talking about R/H/D street cars for which a log is more than suitable for pumping out some fairly serious numbers. If you read back through the previous thread there are some negative views on the log.Im not the enemy... just another guy with a common interest in BMW who enjoys a good debate.

Congratulations you get it but i think alot of people may not . The point im making is that the manifold design is not all that important as its cracked up to be as its still upstream of the bottle neck.As for the 335i making 300hp you have to keep in mind that it only runs 8.5 - 9 pounds boost in standard trim for longevity reasons and to also not show up its big brother... imagine giving those little turbos on those little logs a little tweak

Yeah thats the picture thanks... if you look closely you can see cylinders 1 and 3 plus 4and 6 point very close to each other,also on cylinders 2 and 5 the runners are nearly half the length of 1,3,4,6. The debate im trying to put out there is that the turbo itself is going to be the biggest restriction in the system due to the exhuasts gasses having to push that turbine wheel around and around against the resistance of the compressor wheel spinning up all the boost

If some clever person on here can goggle search images for ( 335i engine ) and post the picture of the turbo set up that would be good of them seeing as i cant seem to manage that simple task at the moment

Thougt i would start a fresh on this topic to get some ideas out there.How many people out there think the 335i has a fairly impressive power output?.... and it runs a couple of little logs? go figure?

As i have said manifold tune is not critical...road going vs race cars are two different matters as is L/H vs R/H drive vehicals.In reality on a R/H drive road going car a dirty old log manifold is more than able of producing the goods?

I think there is a common misconception out there that a turbo manifold should look like a set of extractors with a flange to bolt a turbo on at the end.Common knowledge tells us that extractors are used for the scavaging effect of exhuast gasses from the cylinders but in a turbo aplication that effect is lost due to gasses working against a turbine wheel.Just think how much power it takes to run a pump running at various flows and pressure like a turbo does... well thats the amount of power required from your exhuast gasses to spin up that turbo and hence shape of the manifold is not that critical because the biggest restriction is the turbine wheel and housing itself.As long as the inside diameter of the manifold is the correct size and the turbo is as close as possible to the cylinder head to take advantage of the still rapidly expanding gasses then your going to have a decent setup if you are using the correct size turbo for your engine size and boost requirements.Those are my thoughts.... i would like to hear others

No jokes... Are you speaking from experince, pretty pictures in magazines or what you have been told by the man? Please do explain your manifold theorys on spooling and response.

Turbo manifold tune is really not that critical anyway, remeber those exhuast gases still have to work against a turbine wheel to spin all that boost up on the compressor wheel

Does the quote you have been given of$900-1000 include your bosses offer? if not thats a fair price for that work.Plus you would be getting overhauled parts that will work guaranteed opposed to unknown 20yr old 2nd hand parts that like the professional said could fail in six months.Windscreens can be tricky to fit and glass breaks easily

Bad luck guy, better luck for your next WOF

Does this include idle valves?

Lucky BMW's have big sumps

I was under the impression that M cars were fitted with engines typical of a race car and even race cars have been known to suck a drop or two of the sweet sweet fully synthetic.100HP per 1000cc x N/A = oil consumpstion