bravo

Yeah man, I reackon they would prob look cool on your wheels. I don't know anything about removing the coating - my concern would be the standard of finish possible to be obtained after it has been removed. Whatever is under there may not came up too good without some sort of additional treatment?? Found this though on a site related to powder coating in relation to motorbikes: Q. A metallurgist friend told me a few years ago that things like aluminum wheel spindles should not be powder coated. He explained that aluminum billet material (6061-T6 ?) changed crystal structure at a critical temperature around 410 degrees F (as I recall). The thrust was that the heating step would adversely affect the strength of the material. Non-structural components would be OK, but not something that "holds the spokes on". A. The metallurgist is correct. Products like wheel billets, scuba tanks, etc. can be powder coated, but only with powders which cure below peak metal temperature of 300 degrees F. The magic temperature is about 275F. The crystalline realignment at 400 degrees F causes the previous ductile aluminum to become brittle. Imagine the catastrophe when an 80 cu. ft. scuba tank explodes under 3000 psi pressure after an unauthorized powder coat (this actually happened). To my knowledge, all Aluminum wheels and other strength-critical aluminum components are powder coated with these cooler curing powders. Heating Al alloys above this temperature causes a granular rearrangement of the metallurgical structure resulting in a significant change of bulk properties. The tensile strength of the metal is dramatically lowered, much like a stress relief anneal on a steel piece would do. The resultant metal is not as strong, nor will pressure vessels made of such treated aluminum (e.g., scuba tanks) hold near the pressure that they were originally rated for. Since wheels are essentially load-bearing structures, they should never be heated like this unless the alloy is known to tolerate it well. Q. "What is the best way to remove the powder coat without damaging the metal underneath? Are there different removal methods for steel or aluminum?" A. The company I work for (as well as many others) make hot alkaline strippers for paint / powder that are used routinely for powder removal. We even have a hot stripper that takes paint and powder off of aluminum surfaces. Mechanical and burn methods are also regularly used to remove powder.

:mosh: That man is a drinking god :bowdown: hah. I'd try it, but I know I'd just get it all down the front of my shirt, and I have enough trouble finding my mouth at the end of the night as it is. :beer: :drunk:

Yeah, I used to watch Top Gear on BBC at about 4.30am about threee years back before it became popular and viewed on Prime. I think the only reason SKY has been hyping it now is due to the popularity it gained when on Prime. Might just have to wait until Prime decides to view it as lasts nites effort was disgusting.

Bah! Half an hour. We got a chopped episode! Bloody WOFTAM! At least the comments about the Monaro and the Aussies were piss funny. Will watch it next week, but DIS-A-POINTED!

sh*t thanks man, forgot it was on - was gonna go out, but will stay in now. Hope it is a full episode, half an hour just won't cut it I'm afraid.

Theres a e30 for parts in the For Sale section. There was another one on trademe that I was thinking of bidding on, but it has been withdrawn.

Well.... My old man is getting me a dynatron d3800 alarm, so thats covered now. I am buying myself a new front spoiler, wheels (if I can find some) and maybe an amp. Other than that I think I am pretty happy. But if some one is feeling a little like santa claus, I could do with an M3, or maybe just a 325i. I'll even settle for a manual conversion for the current wheels.

Cool jacket. Y ou know your supposed to smile in photos, esp. if your wearing a new BMW jacket! Or is it one of those staunch southern chick things? My ex came from Tapanui (near Gore for those Northerners out there), she never smiled in photos either.

Perhaps this thread warrants sticky status?

Go smoked if you don't want standard ones.

And the perfect accessory for your car.... "Hold you cigarette and phone while driving..."

I got a quote to panel the rock-sized dent in my front spoiler and decided to first look at buying secondhand. Colour or style is irrelevant, but it must be dent and rust free. Anything considered. Also, preferably bay of plenty north, although, this is mainly to save on freight, and if cheap enough, (or if I get desperate enough), then I will look outside this area. Cheers

The problem is, is that if everyone assumes it won't become law, it just might. What needs to happen is, people like ourselves need to publicise the bill and get other like minded individuals up in arms about it. We need to talk to motoring enthusiasts and clubs, parts suppliers, the AA and local MP's. We need to demand that the motring industry is consulted, and that there is a submissions process. We need to make submissions if there is. Otherwise you can forget it, and if modified exhausts go, whats next?

mmmmm, too small.

Unless u perfect the one handed roll - a practice my old man and a mate are quite profficient at, but I could never master.Don't matter now coz I quit, but would still love to be able to do it.

:banghead: LMAO at this one! Sorry, feel your pain bro, but that has to be one of the stupidest quotes of the year, want a c**t!.

no but gives a rough idea of how much of a large (or small) purchase the car was relative to now. National wage/income figures would be a better indication as for instance, if the average wage at the end of the eighties was 20,000 then a new beamer would be three years wages for the average person. If wages are now at an average of 35,000, then the equivalent purchase in todays terms would be a car worth 115,000. Actual inflation figures are irrelevant really as it really comes down to how much work you have to do to buy one. If in 1989 you had to work for 3 years to buy one, then todays equivalent of 3 years wages gives an idea of how expensive the car was back then. Tried to get wage figures off the statistics NZ website, but gave up after 15 unsuccessful minutes.

or boot spoiler. But, if you don't wnat it don't buy it obviously...

Sounds interesting. Perhaps since their is some interest, you could scan it and host is somewhere?? Only of course if it is not too much trouble! Or, where abouts is the article? and what is the subject matter exactly, might go and grab a copy myself.

Graph showing property prices from 1990 - 1999 So, going on average national property price changes, a $120000 home is now over $180000. So in terms of buying power, a $60000 320 in 1990 would be roughly equivalent to a $90000 car in 2000 give or take and so prob a $100000 car today which is about right as the new 3-series ranges from $44000 to over $100000. Just a rough guideline, but gives you an idea.

Thanks for the replies - I didn't get the x-overs with the speakers, so I am going down the wreckers tonight to see if the car is still there so I can pinch them out of it. Will also see about some replacement fascia "triangles".

Werd! Happy b'day bro.

Driven properly, a turbocharged motor can provide better feul economy than the same engine naturally aspirated as it burns fuel more efficiently. But, as turbos are usually bought for the power they produce, obviously you tend to drive them in a manner that drinks petrol.

Yep, sure did.

My mate wrote off his car, and gave me the fusion splits he had in the front as he is going to upgrade in his new car. Now, I will eventually upgrade them myself for something with a bit more quality, but they will be good to replace the current factory paper cones I have now. I am currently running two 6-in two-way JVC rears that I took out of my ute when I sold it, off a 4x40W JVC CD headunit. I will buy an amp when I purchase a sub and new fronts next year, and just want to hook the new splits up for now. How do I slpit the sound signal? Do I need to purchase a x-over, or do I just hook both the woofer and tweeter up to the front outputs on my head unit? Help please! Also, anyone who knows where I can get the plastic fascia behind the front mirrors that allows a tweeter to be mounted as opposed to the plain ones I have, please let me know before I take to them with a holesaw.