darkwolf

Although engine size is different the 325 runs the M50B25 first produced in 1991. The 323 runs the M52B25 produced in 1995 to replace the M50. More info can be found here. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_E36 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_M50#M50B25 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/BMW_M52#M52B25 According to the above sources the M50 produced more power.

I wonder if the tick next to the speed limiter (140KPH) is to say it's on or to say that yes you've tested it and it works?

Lucky I got mine when I did. Means prices might go up for them too Seriously though, that's ridiculous. How many people do you know can afford a 3 year old car that suits the needs of their families? So their options are already imported cars that will no doubt cost more as they can't be imported for peanuts anymore. I'm lucky as I just bought a new car but not everyone will be as fortunate. I understand trying to make the emissions less, i'm no greenie, but I do understand. Why not make it possible for the older less eco-friendly cars to be imported but bring their emissions up to standard? Or are we all supposed to go out and buy a blue motion.

I had the same issue. Problem was I found it after I had locked my family in the car to show them that neat feature. You'll find that because it is IR instead of RF it will need to be pointed at the mirror. Give it a go. I'm assuming that will be the problem. I started to panic when it wouldn't work as well. Also there have been a couple of times where I haven't been able to get into the car, just make sure you are hitting the right button

Best part was sitting in BP with a couple of mates. A group of dickheads walked over and started checking out the car. One even tried to stick his head in the car. So I held down the lock button. Was the funniest thing to watch all four of them jump back and just about sh*t themselves. I now do it every time I stop for a coffee just to try and do it again.

Nice to see another E39 owner. Enjoy finding out what all the buttons do. Don't read the manual until you've used every button and found out through personal experience what they do. Then read the manual and find out what you can do. Little hint when unlocking the car hold down the unlock button for about 5 seconds You won't be disappointed. It also works the other way by holding down lock. I still play with this one and I have owned it for just over a month now.

Anything to report on these yet? First impressions etc?

They don't blank number plates: http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&...8553068478,,0,5

LHD just means it was built for countries that drive on the other (right) side of the road to us (left). Only reason they are rare is because if there is an option to buy a RHD its usually the better option.

I'm pretty sure the (P) will be parking brake. Assuming that the (!) is for Traction Control. Otherwise it might be to say you are in Park in the gearbox (assuming you don't have a manual)

That's fine, I didn't think you were. I just don't like meguiars products normally. That Water Magnate sounds interesting. Might check it out next time I'm buying cleaning gear. The microfiber clothes are actually really good for drying a car. Better than a chamois. They need rung out a bit more but they do dry better. Yeah, thinking about it I think I had been told not to use a cutting compound on some paints. Can't remember if it was on a paint with or without a clear coat. I've no idea how to tell the difference so I just stayed clear. Might also look at a polish then the next time I go to wax it. Probably in the next 2-3 months.

I'm not a fan of Meguiars anything. I like the mother's stuff as it seems (probably a placebo effect) to do a better job. I know that the car was for instance is a car wash, and their wax is a wax, and their glass cleaner is, yep you guessed it glass cleaner. Whereas I don't like brands that try to make something outta something else. Like next generation car wash. We put all these other things in it that do random stuff. I don't mind taking my time with my car. I'm not a mechaphile but I do enjoy going over every inch of my car. Plus I'm out there at least twice a week washing her. It gives me time to think. Some people drink/play games/ watch tv. I wash my car. I've never polished as I've heard it can do terribly things to certain paints. I can never find the information I need about which paints so I just leave it alone.

A few others... as I said though, didn't have my camera, only had my phone so didn't bother taking many, but they turned out better than I thought they would. Really makes my LED tail lights look amazing. From my bedroom window. No zoom unfortunately but you can still see the reflections on the drivers side. No, no polishing. I just cleaned it when I first bought it. Waxed it after giving it a really good dry down with a chamois. Parked it in lots of shade and waxed it. I'm pretty pedantic about waxing though. Nothing pisses me off more than dirty wax marks all over the car. I don't let the water "air dry" as it creates water marks on the paint from dirt getting caught in the water as it dries. So I dry it with a microfibre cloth now. I used to use a chamois but the microfibre seems to get a better finish.

Sorry, I worked out what the issue was. Turns out I had them listed in an unlisted album so basically you couldn't view without authorisation. Yeah I can see her from my bedroom window where I have the computer set up. I went to turn the PC on and saw how good she looked. Unfortunately my parents have borrowed my proper camera so I had to use my cellphone, otherwise I'd have taken more photos.

So I gave my car a clean and as I don't have any photos of her yet decided I'd take a few. Couldn't believe how shiny she is For anyone interested: 1x Mothers Carnauba Wax (a couple of weekends ago) 1x Mothers California Gold Car Wash 1x Microfibre Detailing Cloth (used when washing car) 1x Microfibre Cloth (used for drying car) Took about 45 minutes to wash and that's what it came up like. Took about 3 hours to wax when I did it though. NB. I think they are the right size for forum rules (but I use 2 x 24" 1920x1200 monitors so I could be wrong) if so let me know and I'll fix it

I've been told to keep well clear of directionals on my 540i because of the camber and weight. If you want a damn good tyre try the CT01 from Toyo. That'll be my next tyre. I heard this from Ryan at Tony's Tyres in Levin.

Just go the V8 route. If you intend to keep it then in the long run it will work out cheaper. You have more torque from a lower RPM so acceleration will be better than a turbo. Turbo lag sucks donkeys nuts when you pull out in (light) fog and find a retard driving without any lights on in the other lane. If I'd had my V8 then, I wouldn't have been wishing I'd worn my brown pants. If you really wanna go down the FI path later on, at least the chassis will be strong enough to hold it (assuming you've modified it to fit the V8 nicely) and if you wanted real power you could supercharge or twin turbo the V8. The only problem I could see with that sort of setup is room in the engine bay. And that's why they invented a firewall. So you can cut bits out to make things fit.

My driving habits have changed (2.0L I4 -> 4.4L V8) so I'm spending way more now than I was back then. But I've noticed a trend. I was worried about petrol driving my 2L before labour weekend. Petrol Prices were ++ Stopped worrying, bought a 4.4L V8 to enjoy petrol while it was at this price as I thought if it's going up I'll enjoy it now. Petrol prices -- What have i learnt: Baby don't worry, bout a thing, cos every little thing is gonna be alright Edit: Oops grabbed wrong quote

Yeah I figured they would have a reason. Hence why I am still running factory set ups. I just like knowing why they have done something. Call it OCD or whatever but that's how I am.

The recommended pressures for my 1998 BMW 540i for my standard wheels (which are on the car now) 225/55/16 are: While Loaded: 2.2 bar (31.9 PSI) front 2.7 bar (39.2 PSI) rear Standard: 1.9 bar (27.6 PSI) front 2.2 bar (31.9 PSI) rear My question is, theoretically I have more weight at the front wheels. So wouldn't I want higher pressures there? I always thought that above normal (increased) pressure resulted in less grip, below normal (decreased) pressure resulted in more grip. So where have I gone wrong that it seems to me that BMW wants me to do more burnouts. Obviously I'm following the manufacturers specs in regards to pressures. But I just like to know why I do things as apposed to doing them because I read I should.

I just bought a 1998 540i on Labour Weekend. DO IT!!! They are a fantastic car. I'm still finding things and going WOW!

SOLD!!! SOLD!!! SOLD!!! SOLD!!! SOLD!!! Also... SOLD!!!

$500 ono could bring those memories back to life. And your a mechanic so you could finish her off. Be just like new again (except with 152,000KM on the clock) Would but my trademe account is in deficit Won't be cleared until next Friday when I'm paid. Hoping she'll be gone by then.

I will deliver it anywhere between Auckland and Wellington if you pay the asking price. Though I'd be a bit sad to see her used on a paddock track

Due to the new car being purchased my Celica is up for sale. I bought her from a guy on here with the intention of taking the engine out and putting it in my corona. Unfortunately due to time, money, new job, new location of new job this never happened. No WOF, REG on hold. I bought the car at 134,000KMs. When I bought it I replaced the spark plugs, replaced the oil, oil filter, fuel filter and battery. I have recently ~15,000KMs: New shocks (KYB) 4x New Tyres 195/55/14 Yokohama C-Drive (Can't remember the exact profile, will double check tonight) Serviced less than 3,000 KM ago. Oil/filter changed. New drivers front suspension top hat. Passenger side steering arm boot. New Narva bulbs (absolutely fantastic) It's like driving in daylight All that is needed to get a warrant as far as I am aware is: Remove fog lights or replace the drivers side one. CV joints are a bit knackered. Was only a warning but they will probably pull these up. Driver's side park light. I replaced this and then some prick reversed into her. Everything has been repaired apart from the park light. 152,000KMs 3S-GE 5 Speed Manual Chassis code is ST183-BLMVF She has a small problem with a hesitation that is caused when she is warm. Still drives fine, just can't give her death or she won't like it. Car is in Levin area. She is completely driveable just the WOF and REG is an issue. I have replaced the front drivers panel that had a bend in it when I bought the car also replaced the bumper as it was cracked these can also be taken with the car if you want them for no extra cost. They are in Hamilton though. I also have the factory airbox and standard air filter. I currently have the pod filter on there as the air intake hose cracked at the throttle body end and was allowing unfiltered air in. So to put the factory box and filter in it would require a new air intake hose. The 4WS doesn't work. When I say that I mean. It has an error, I can't remember the code but I can get this if you want it. It still turns the rear wheels but they turn with you instead of against you which it is designed to do at speeds over 40KM/H. When I checked the codes it indicated an issue with the position sensor. Almost replaced all the sound system in the car. Just had trouble finding 8" speakers for the door at a time when I could afford it. I have put Infinity Kappa Series 6.5" Components in the back. Alpine S 6x9" speakers in the parcel tray. These are run from a an amp mounted under the seat, powered by a JVC 805 series (motorized faceplate ) head unit. It's an older head unit but it has 3x Pre-outs (F,R,Sub) and I know that the sub out runs at 5V. I think the Front and Rears do but can't be sure. Front speakers are completely disconnected as the foam/rubber surrounds have perished with age and are now a funny dusty crap. If you like the car can come with the speakers and headunit and subs that I currently have in there. But these are NOT included in the named price. There is an amp and a cap under the passenger seat. I will accept offers on these but I am not keen to see these go. This has been a fantastic car for me. I deeply love this car and if circumstances were different I wouldn't be doing this. You can even make the seats hug you (the drivers seat has electronically adjustable lumber and shoulders). The steering wheel rises outta the way when you shut her off and take the key out. Doesn't come with an alarm, the person before me took it out, though I did come up with an interesting use for the siren. I'll show you if you want the car. I paid $350 for her in December. The $500 asking price is due to the $800+ of new shocks and $800+of new tyres plus the other work that has been done. As I said she needs near nothing to get a WOF I am just not allowed her anymore. Choice was that she goes and my Corona (my first car) goes or my new car does. Don't like to have my hands tied but nevertheless here I am. My loss is your gain. Pics of her when I first got her. Will take some more photos tonight if I have time. She's the same now as she was then, just I've done things to fix her as mentioned above. I have aver 300 photos of her. If you want more I've got em.