FRT

///M for awsome bro, i like.

I've got a set I was goof to fit but put nolthanes in instead. Also have the new lemforder bushes aswell if you need them.

PM'ed

Any one got a spare set to sell?

If not, anyone keen on a group buy from Vorshlag?

http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info.php?products_id=59{36}110

Yes ive got two bumper irons exactly like that. and a RHS grill. They have been listed on trade me just passed in.

Just saw a red e36 m3 with black roll cage on Pakuranga Road.

Could be me....

Good work james glad you got it and hope to see you around with it soon.

Great thanks guys. if they are good please PM me price etc. cheers

Looking for a cheap matching pair of oxygen sensors that would suit an E36 M3 1993 Doesn't matter if heater is broken just as long as it reads.

My S50B30 has a funny sound to it when revving up around 4000rpm. It goes sweet as but this sounds is driving be batty. Sort of a buzzing raaaarrrrrrrr sound and you can feel a buzzing on the clutch pedal. ??!! It does it free revving or under load and backing off engine braking.

Re built vanos and rattle kit, set timing adjusted stretched cam chain (250k klm) idles quiet not a vanos sound. pretty sure it's not an external vibration,

Do the oil pump and drives make funny sounds when worn on these? Any one else got one of these that sounds funny? I'm sure I'm not making it up I've listened to videos on Utube and others don't sound like this.

The old S50B30's mighty spitting of flames and yelling have blown out the flexible joint at the end of the right header.

Looking for a replacement (as BMW only sell the whole header) expansion joint. OEM joint is a ribbed consatina bellows pipe type thing, it's got a slight bend as it goes onto the flat section of pipe along under the car.

Where can you buy those OEM style ones?

Any one got a good 2nd hand one for sale off something else?

Are those braded bullet looking ones any good?

I could weld it up solid but would crack somewhere inaccessible at the top of the header I'm thinking?

Currently I've got a slipper joint there sealed up with a wad of chewing gum and speeding tickets but that keeps blowing out too when it heats up.....

Must be a real hardship having to slum around in that - NOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Carpet hurts lap-times, apparently......

It's a hardship keeping it under the speed limit! He he.

The carpet and underlay must be thick as there was 3.5kgs of foam/rubber sound deadening just under the parcel tray alone. It's a stock exhaust and blasting along it sounds real quiet inside until you wiz past a concrete median barrier with the window down.

Yes.... A WOF'ed e36 m3 with a cage and seats/belts ... Carpet and A/C.... The poor mans GT2

Ok, thanks guys. The good news is that's it's an older car 1993 so no traction control, pressure warnings etc.

The drivers (only) airbag steering is gone replaced by roll cage and with the airbag module gone the OBD1 goes looking on startup finds nothing, thinks i dont have one and does not display airbag warning light. Yes the bulb is still there.

So was thinking just cut power to ABS module??

So just putting it out there if anyone has tried that or can foresee a problem before I find out the hard way. Brakes being something with high risk if the system will throw a fit and not work properly.

What I would really like is to know which wheel is causing the ABS to start, so say is it always a rear that is locking up I could use different pads. Be cool to have four LEDs representing each wheel displayed inside the car that individually flash on lock up. Being easier and cheaper than looking for smoke signals like I did in the E30 race car.

So I was thinking....for my road/track E36 M3 with stock brakes and ABS if I wanted to switch off the ABS is it as simple as just pulling the fuse/relay out?? (or run a switch through to the cockpit) or is there more to it than that? keeping 100% feel and effectiveness of the system.

>this post should be under brakes< dohh

Rolled past NASTINS Yellow E36 M3 on the Waipuna Bridge on the was to work this morning. ... Pitty there was so much traffic or it would have been all go from the next set of traffic lights!! He he..

Highly recommend P&S Automotive in East Auckland, they do a lot of the BMW race series cars including mine.

It works!! thanks mate.

The product that is specific for s50bXX and s54BXX is Castrol 10W60 TWS. You can get it from the dealers for around not much more than the retail version on repco shelves which isn't quite the same however is just as good.

Which is the BMW specific M oil.

I use Castrol 10W60 Edge in mine. The reason I use this as its an entry level competition oil which can hack 150+ degrees without crapping out on me. It is also formulated to run the right viscosity when hot. Allowing the VANOS to operate properly. It is pretty much the same as TWS accept TWS lasts longer for BMW 20,000k service intervals.

I change mine when it starts to get black (burnt or contaminated) so 10W60 SN Edge is fine. Its probably the best priced high performance oil around for the s50s tighter tolerances you can buy.

Ive read on the interweb that 10 60 due to its viscosity runs hotter than 10 40 under the same load, have you found this at the track?

I know a lot of american forums say they run 10 60 under high load/track to keep viscosity, but most U.S models dont have oil coolers like euro.

Ive "fixed" noisey vanos before on another S50B30 by changing to Edge 10 40, the truth of the matter is with new seals and rattle kit fitted on my latest S50B30 it will run happily on 10 60 or 10 40 weight oil without noise.

Check the emissions air pump back up to the exhaust manifold the joint or that one way valve might have failed. Take out your air filter and see if any gas coming back up the small pipe at the bottom of housing.

Some of that brr'rrr'rr kinda sound is vanos, ticking sounds like injectors, they do have a very snappy sound i can hear mine inside the car while driving.

Burn and get burnt Luke.... waiting..

Its the rattle that is annoying me rather than the bogging (which is only very slight). As far as I understand, the S50B30 has vanos on the intake valve and not the exhaust valve, and is infinitely variable. Because it is not double vanos, I suppose it makes sense that the bogging isn't quite as pronounced.

Anyway - I'll let you know how much it costs me all up, and what the results are.

I just did Besian systems vanos and rattle kit. my car 250k so much smoother variability 1000 - 3000+ rpm.

Mine needed rattle kit badly and was wabbly when i got piston spline out needed doing.

But i ordered S62 cup washer for behind sprocket hub as per besian notes. But NOTE you cant take sprocket hub off unless you take the exhust cam out, unlike 92 page besian instructions. i have a video showing hub wont come off in place.

This over haul did reduce my bad start up rattle but not gone completely due to warn tension cup washer on sprocket not applying tension.

Hey Luke you won the E30 boot lid and spark plug leads off me on trade me over a week a go and still no contact or reply yet..

Give me a call and come get what your bought please.

Cheers,

Dave 021 327 822

I finally did the S50B30 single vanos with Besian systems rattle and vanos kits, took me a while but all good.

Turns out i have an early 9/93 model that doesn't look like the instructions.

No timing marks or TDC lock pin on front ballancer, only at the back by starter motor lock pin into fly wheel (buried deep) so glad i marked all on the way out so just put it back together same so sweet.

Also cant get sprocket hub off cam without taking cam out so the S62 sprocket hub diaphragm spring and pressure plate (11-36-7-833-218) i bought didnt go on.