_ethrty-Andy_
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Posts posted by _ethrty-Andy_
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I know they are an aquired taste (and hence expect flaming) but im thinking of getting a set. what sort of tyres do you need to run to get them to clear the guards or is rolling the guards essential? Stretched tyre is ftw so am happy to do that. I have a set of 205/50/16s here with 80% tread so will they work?
Edit: ideally id like to hear from someone who has first hand experience and has/has tried to put 002's on thier car, but if anyone else knows let me know thanks
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very undecided on eyelids, but they definately look better in black regardless of the colour of the car imho. bbut your car looks really nice! where did you get your rearview mirror from? ebay?
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Dammit! paid more for mine! *palmface* is going to be soooo good!
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Well the S38 is kind of based off the m30. Just like the s14 off the m10, and the s50 off the m50 etc.
so yeah..
yeah thats what i meant
Not really, completely different motors?
how? (not smart comment, genuinley interested.. maybe PM as its OT?)
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also if rca (or line audio) cables are run beisde main power feed cables that can cause that noise
True but thats usually only on really high preformance systems. im runing 1950W worth of amplification on full tit when i want to and it doesnt do that.
Cheers Jochen
When checking it is still a ground loop by connecting the positive of the audio, what am i looking for?
A resistance of virtually zero
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Already is
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bump
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last day of work today, really looking forward to having the next 2 weeks off
I hate working part time... im working 6 days for the next two weeks haha. only days off the 25th and the 1st!
But merry xmas all from me too!
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woah, my 2000 540i Msport (not worth as much as yours) is around the $650 or $700 mark for full insurance and glass cover etc. And thats for a 23 y/o driver. Do premiums start going up again as you get older (no offence meant)
I pay 1200 for an E30 worth 5000 haha. insurance companies arent your friend! But yes the premiums do go back up after 65ish depending on your history
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anyone got any advice/help for me and my little problems i wrote about ? thanks
looks to be a bit of a self answering question but sounds like your fuel pump is dead. take it out and hotwire it straight to the battery (it wont kill it if you do connect it up, verify it does something then disconnect) and see what happens
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S38B38 by the looks of it
I didnt know they did an MSport of the M30! you learn something everyday!
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Want some M50 with your turbo?
edit: so many M50 swaps in this thread.. i got mixed up. what is that?
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i paid 100 to have the tyres on my 17" put on, incl a discount coz my mate works there.. they do charge more as the rim size goes up because it is harder to put the tyre on aparently and logically
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mines go a crack in it,lookin for either light or lense cover cheap if possible thanks
I have one, $15 + shipping or can meet you in hamilton mid january on my way to auckland. PM me if you are interested?
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Well i left it and put the car back together, and ive just taken the diff out of the 316i, and the rear axles in that are identical! the left side pushed in sorta and the right the rounded dome! i wonder if they are ment to be like one of those OEM and then aftermarket ones the other! thought id throw this find up incase someone else has the same find
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Possibly voltage drop to the starter solenoid or a faulty solenoid in the starter. Check the starter with a volt meter when it plays up
Will carry multimeter in the car from now on
When you find it, post it up, I have a very similar problem in the 'vert. Sometimes turn the key and a click or nothing, keep trying and when it cranks, will start every time. Never cut out on the move though, so possibly different prob.
Will do
Read this NEWSLETTER around page 4
This isn't the PDF document I was actually after but would appear to have the same article in it that I was using
Will sticky this PDF
Thats an excellent resource im sure. ive saved it or future referance. M40 and M20 starters arent the same are they? i have a spare M40 one..
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I had an intermittent starting issue, when the engine was warmed up on the first try it would crank away but not spark, second try it'd start fine. Never died whilst driving. Then one morning the car wouldn't fire at all.
Was the CAS - Crank Angle Sensor, but there's a tonne of things to look into
Essential checking is does it crank (starter, earth, ignition wiring - inhibitors, alarm/auto)
Is it fuelling (fuel relay)
Is there spark (coil, CAS, master relay)
Everytime the engine cranks over she will start up so not a spark or fuelling issue. its sometimes when you switch the key to start nothing happens, except i hear a click like a relay tripping but nothing else. is there a relay for the starter motor? How do the wires to the auto shift selector (which are now shorted as part of the manual conversion) intergrate into this system to stop the car starting in drive? i should have investigated when i put my new dash in.
Edit: for the record i dont have an imobiliser.. i havent wired it up yet because it is just going to get in the way of sorting this problem
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Its illegal to spay tint your lights (dont ask why they sell it if its illegal, its just like half the other sh*t they sell).
I reckon go for red, looks good & when the indicator flashes it still orange (have attached photo below of mine).
Also, with spray tint, it takes a few tries to get good at it, sometimes will be too thick sometimes will be too thin & its a major mission to clean the spray off.
IF you really want blacked tails then get aftermarket lights (on Trademe, 3 different types for $295 a pair) cant complain, cheaper than a fine or a pink sticker cos they are fully Legal!
if you use the stuff from Repcos it doesnt efect the colour of the lights. My indicators still flash yellow and as bright as they always are, and the tails, brake lights and reverse lights are all the correct colours too
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Black, do the side and front indicators too it looks way better. you can always try score a second set of tails and have 1red 1black n swap around
Not to mention the really anal WOF places will ping you for it because they cant be assed walking the 200m back or whatever the distance is to see if they are visible. it just saves the hassle
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i believe you can run neons if they are correct colour, ie you are allowed red on the back and white/blue possibly yellow on the front, and none on the sides. so you may as well not have them. best neons in the wheels wells = carbon ceramic brakes
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Rice. you wont catch me doing it. I used to rock them in my foot wells... took that sh*t out haha
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my mate had this exact problem about 6 months ago.... the m52 fixed it....
Funny you should say that. i asked for extra hours at work over the xmas break when everyone is on holiday. I plan to M50 or M52 in the new year
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I was purely stating a fact in general not having a dig at you Andrew, as i'm sure the similar sort of thing has happened to others, just a shame all the effort to get something with no result
cheers
Jon
I knew you werent having a dig? yeah the resistor pack isnt overly time consuming to remove and is only like $2 or something so im not that phased by it
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yeah, pick a part can be good for cheap parts but.....
sometimes the expense of petrol to get there, the time of pulling the part out to get it home, only to find out that it is faulty, seems it would be cheaper to source from a wrecker or someone else who has tested or can garauntee the part, as pick a part has a non refund policy or garauntee
I know this! thats why im going to call you tomorrow as per yourr PM! (or now?) i called you yesterday but you must have been out?
Sportmax 002
in Wheels & Tyres
Posted · Report reply
I feel using up his time in this busy part of the year unfair when i have a set already lined up and therefore wont be buying from him anyways, but ill ring when i get some time. meanwhile, anyone else run them?