B.M.W Ltd
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Posts posted by B.M.W Ltd
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What diagnostic tool are you using, will it clear fault codes and adaptions ? You also need something that will give you live data
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12 minutes ago, Eagle said:Are you are talking about too much pressure pushing the cylinder out the bore? I suppose you could always reverse bleed with a decent syringe
No.. some of the screw on type pressure bleeders that fit on the reservoir caps
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1 hour ago, Eagle said:A lot easier with pressure bleeder.
A vacuum bleeder is much safer and you won't run the risk of the work area or other cars being sprayed with brake fluid and it can be done by one person
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5 minutes ago, limepanda said:Do you have any evidence whatsoever to back that up? If not what are you basing that statement on?
54 years in the motor trade and owning my own business since 1986.. I retired last year. Ask Chris about his experience (Jacko) with "Brembo" labeled brake parts
It's a very well selling highly rated pad that has been well reviewed. Much safer bet than most brands in NZ imo.
I'm not aware or have I ever used that brand of pad and I am aware of the Bosch brand. My concern is an unproven mix of different brands that are not matched by either manufacturer. The mixture could be a problem and I'm not saying it is, I'm saying it could be and the whole exercise would be a waste of money. Your choice though
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I said may not be compatible... mix & match at your own peril. Something we don't do in trade unless we know of a good, proven mix. And I have never ever heard of the particular Bosch series pad. Keep in mind... may fit and work to a degree but not suitable or fit for use in normal everyday road use on NZ roads
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Get someone to check the Sprag clutch on the alternator pulley. When cold, if its faulty it will trigger the front engine knock sensor. If its faulty replace tensioner and alternator pulley at the same time. It won't trigger an engine fault code because the knock sensor is working and doing its job to protect the engine.
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You also need a doctors skills to install them or even taking a wheel on /off the vehicle. Make sure your insurance is up to date.
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28 minutes ago, M3AN said:I'd hope if any pads/rotors were incompatible at least one of them would have a massive warning attached that said "DO NOT USE WITH xxx"!
No, the industry allows you to choose what ever you want to purchase and fit to your vehicle. Mix and match at your own peril. Rotor and pad materials vary considerably and the mix matches may not give you a safe braking system, depending on how you are using the vehicle. Race/rally/track systems are not really suited to daily/ family or every day driving use.
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I'll withdraw my ATE recommendation. I should have read all the previous posts before I engaged in conversation. ATE rotors will probably not suit the pads you are purchasing from the states. Compounds and compatibility are critical when matching pads & rotors, depends on how the vehicle will be used and the demands on the braking system. The offer to call me still stands.
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There is a difference fitting by a schoolboy and a professional though. Nothing to do with BMW specific.
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You will not regret going for the ATE option even if the cost didn't come into the equation. If you would like some help with pricing, give me a call Ph 021921377
I would also add...these must be fitted correctly... I can help with the correct procedure in a phone call
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If it's white sludgy, it's a bigger money pit which these are at this age
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The pressure switch supplies power to the AC clutch if there is gas in the system...no gas pressure, no power supply to the clutch. Its a 4 pin plug on the top of the receiver dryer. I suggest you get it scanned as a starting point. Talk to Peter on Monday or Joe at Euro Surgeon who is closer to you.
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Which switch ? the on/off on the dash or the pressure switch on the receiver/dryer (filter)
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It won't switch with no gas. We used Cool Cars in Manukau for all our Aircon work. Give Peter a call (09)2635777 open on Monday
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What have you checked / diagnosed so far ?
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I would not fit or go past using ATE pads & rotors. Never gave me a problem for over 20 years. Price them from BM Workshop.
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I use one of these at home Chris
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It's quite often called the intermediate shaft or incorrectly the balance shaft. Try googling reset distributor timing. It can be done without changing the cam timing which you seem to have reset correctly. I'm very sorry I can't help any more at this time - family
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Did you mark and time the auxiliary shaft pulley for ignition timing ? If you haven't it's the ignition timing causing the non start.
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Eurotrip 2019
in Off-Topic
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We recently got back after 6 weeks. We purchased euros here onto two debit cards which we could draw on through ATM's and kuna in croatia. We never used our normal credit cards. Bosnia allowed you to use both kuna or euros. Depends where your going.