B.M.W Ltd

Just suck it up Nathan. Be grateful that you were actually able to get a flight back to NZ. Allot can't get back now from all over the world. Two weeks self isolation is bugger all to complete and please do the right thing with this. Many will rely on your actions.

21 hours ago, B.M.W Ltd said:

 Clear all fault codes & adaptions and register the battery to the vehicle. Check charge rate when completed and recheck for fault codes after that. The vehicle might also have parasitic battery drain which could of damaged the battery. This is not a DIY unless your have the appropriate scanner hardware and understanding of the process involved. 

Have you found someone to do this for you  ie Jon ?

Have a talk to Jon  FIRST  https://www.auto38bmspecialist.com/

9 minutes ago, B.M.W Ltd said:

Did you buy this from a dealer or privately ?

Try the dealer or a BMW specialist down in your area. Talk to Jon https://www.auto38bmspecialist.com/

3 hours ago, DreDurk said:

Where would have the best battery for my car? 

Did you buy this from a dealer or privately ?

You will new to fit a new correct battery suitable for that vehicle. Clear all fault codes & adaptions and register the battery to the vehicle. Check charge rate when completed and recheck for fault codes after that. The vehicle might also have parasitic battery drain which could of damaged the battery. This is not a DIY unless your have the appropriate scanner hardware and understanding of the process involved. 

2 hours ago, gjm said:

Because fewer cylinders, less complexity and maintenance cost, simpler, newer car?

Yes ? You forgot "RUST"

I'd go for the 2001 BMW E46 318i (M43B19)

Was the product introduced into the inlet system with the engine running ? Or by what other means ?

Is your version covered in or open framed ? 

One reason why I block of exhaust and intake pipes on my motor home LPG heater

45C on most Euro transmissions

17 minutes ago, cat007 said:

I will see how the fluid looks first round and decide then if I do a second change.

Make sure it's warm for the first drain and check fluid with a magnet if there is allot of discoloration

You will never drain it completely in car. Drain it, refill with new oil, run it for ten minutes, then drain it again before removing the pan. Then replace the filter and refit the pan with new gasket and carry out the refill process.. I would not carry out the above process with the risk of running it dry while doing so. If you want I can PM my contact number

Wrong fuel ? Insect nest in muffler ?

Try Alltranz https://www.alltranz.co.nz/

Allot of the older data and photos have been lost from here

Or it dropped out/in when you took it out

Photo and rim size details would be helpful

Swap over the lock housings

Stu's Trim Shop in Manukau

Wheres the thread tape ???

1 hour ago, qube said:

 

Thanks for that Glenn, it would be last resort as I need to use the car so cant send off the module and have the car off the road while it gets repaired.

I think there is supposed to be someone in north shore Auckland but not sure..

AT YOUR RISK, you can still drive it with the control unit off the pump assembly. Same trifecta of lights on the dash. Or get the one off Brent

Powerstop Engineering in Tauranga did all our repairs

Try ENCO in East Tamaki