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vtgts300kw

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Posts posted by vtgts300kw


  1. A few things have happened which are obviously related, outlined below.

    The other day the coolant light came on intermittently ( like it was being affected by the coolant sloshing around ). Then yesterday I noticed that I couldn't get any heat from the AC, it just blew cold no matter the temp I set it at. Sitting in traffic last night, the temperature gauge rose above normal, stopping short of the tripping the red light, I moved about 10m up the road and it went back down to dead center, where it sat for the remaining hour I was stuck in traffic. I got home and topped up the coolant ( it was sitting below the minimum mark ). Started the car this morning and it cme up to temperature as it usually does, then after sitting in traffic for 10 minutes, it rose sharply. I then got out of the traffic, drove up the road and it quickly went back to normal. It also tripped the coolant light again. Drove 10 minutes into work and the needle sat dead center. Haven't checked the coolant level as it's hot.

    Any ideas?


  2. Higher quality fuels (aka BP98) are just that. a better quality product.

    The RON rating is independently tested so you as the consumer get what you pay for.

    The differences between Gull / callenge 91 and for example Mobil / BP 91 are that Gull buy in and therefore have no hand in the quality. They buy just on price and you get what they buy in. This generally is the cheapest stock they can find.

    The big players control their own supply lines therefore make better quality products. They have reputations and large supply contracts to fulfill they need quality supply.

    Average "Jo Public" at the local BP service station gets the same product but retail competition is so, that profit on petrol on is very low. They all make more money on the coffee / pies and softdrinks customers buy at the same time.

    Hence why the stores have become more convenience stores over the last 20 years.

    Long story short. Like anything you get what you pay for.

    If you have a high performance car, or you keep cars longer term, go for the best you can get. If you have a old junker, or switch cars regular like, I wouldn't care so much as long as it meets manufacturer spec (minRON).

    Hasn't their profit on petrol increased significantly over recent years?


  3. Personally I would say $90k for a good condition, well maintained and looked after (as this one is) E30 M3 Evo Sport is a very, very good price even if it has the steering wheel on the "wrong" side, you won't get near any other Sport Evo for the money. Especially if you can get the original parts included as part of the deal.

    Easy enough to convert back to LHD, provided the original conversion has been done properly. This car would have been converted as it was brought into NZ when it was not possible to put LHD on the road.

    When people are asking $55k for just off the boat from Japan on a run-of-the-mill 2.3ltr that is not totally original, this stacks up very well indeed.

    It's a muddy area, as surely their value is in their originality and molestation free condition? Although as I said, this is half the price of an unmolested example.

    Are the off the boat M3's selling for $55k?

    I don't recall ever seeing a evo on trade me so would think the guy can ask whatever he wants!

    Beautiful (drools a little)!

    This car was for sale about 8 years ago, by I think the same owner ( a rel estate agent? ). Was asking about $70k if I remember.


  4. I'd jump onto a US forum to get an actual answer to your question, and not just brain explosions.

    But day to day, the clutch is soft on the M3's, so it wont kill your leg. It's just up to you if you can be bothered or not. Me, personally, on my commute, I'll likely never have a manual again as long as I commute through a city. Keep the manual for the weekend.

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