CSL6

Do you still have the diff?

A friend of mine is offering for sale his factory built race car by Mini BMW. He says this about the car: This is a generation 2 right hand drive , turbo charged vehicle, a genuine Mini Challenge Cooper S R56 JCW as far as I am aware the only one in NZ Most of the MIni Challenge race cars are older left hand drive R53 supercharged that have had a very hard life . if you purchased it new in the UK it would have cost $100,000 NZ The vehicle has done 4000 km and is like brand new. It is road legal with an LW certificate and has been issued with a motorsport authority card .It is registered and has a current WOF .It is set up as a targa car and ideal also for the tour .The car is very straight and never been crashed 250 - 260 hp weighs 1000kg . Homologated roll cage; Racetech seats and harnesses ,Trackit GPS Monet rally computer, six speed transmission. JCW aero kit rear diffuser high-downforce adjustable rear wing , AP Racing ABS brakes, KW rebound , height and camber adjustable coilover suspension, Sparco quick release steering wheel, inboard jacks system (very cool) Quaife LSD sump pan Vorshlag adjustable camber plates , adjustable strut brace , 3 sets of wheels and tyres all near new and genuine mini Lots of spares too many to list . This a very cool car and would make a great club car, targa car, tour car, great car to syndicate with a couple of enthusiast like minded people ! 30 k has to be a lot of bang for your buck being so unused and like new . David Goodwin 0272484243

Hi Stuart, Thanks for your question. As I read the draft production car regs the cars need to be very close to original in virtually all respects. Our M3 has had 5 years of evolution into a track car so is well removed from production spec. The most difficult area to rectify are electrics including wiring, ecu, lighting and dash as all have been modified or removed from our car. The biggest costs in making a car race-fast are getting good reliable engine power, proper suspension and set-up, brakes and drive line. The standard parts just don't cut it compared to real race gear when it comes to racing...our 3l E36 M3 is 5 secs a lap faster than one running stock E36 M3 spec...thats night and day on track. Getting to this level from standard takes big lumps of time and money. The other advantage of starting with a fresh shell is that weight can be removed as part of the build process. There are no minimuim weights in the draft regs so that is where real gains will be made. As a rule of thumb 50 kgs is worth between .5 and .75 secs a lap. So starting with a fully complying road spec chassis and taking weight out where its legal would be the way to go. Our shell is very hacked about so would be hard to return to complying trim. So thats why I'd suggest transferring the good gear from our car to a stock shell would be the best way to go. Developing a front running car from scratch will be very expensive and could take 2-3 years longer to get there.

Our 1994 M3 is for sale, refer to Trade Me ad in Competition Cars for details. Great car for Open B or A and Endurance racing. We also have a very straight E36 325 Coupe to used as the basis for building a car for the Production Class...i.e. Transfer all the good bits from the M3 over to a "new" shell that would comply with production regs. Give me a call if you want to discuss? Graeme. Ph. 021 745 107.

Wanted for our E36 M3 race car - BMW diff. 3.46 ratio, med case, LSD to fit E36 M3 SOLUTION FOUND thanks to Kane Barrie and PF Autos.

Dunlop slicks, D11 medium compound, 240/625 R17" fit E36 M3 7.5" to 8.5" rims, 2/3 rds worn, starting bid on Trademe $50 for 4, ideal for club racer.

Lets keep you safe from your Missus, decline thanks

These beauties are still in my garage...make us an offer!

Tryes still not sold...as I am out of space in my garage I've dropped the price big time to move them on! The R's are now $600 for 4, the M's $400.Go on, steal them!

Tyres re- listed today...bloody recession? It's over!

The wheels have now been sold. Tyres are on Trademe (search on Direzza) if you want to bid?

We have 10 tyres and 4 wheels available as follows: 4 x 18' Dunlop Direzza O3G R1 (med-hard) tyres, 45% used, 4 heat cycles, best choice for hot days. $250 each 4 x 18" Dunlop Direzza O3G M1 (med) tyres, 45% used, 3 heat cyles, best for cold days or damp/wet track $250 each 2 x 18' Dunlop Direzza O3G M2 (med) tyres, one 65% used, $150, one 85% used $100 All tyres have very even wear, no flat spots. All 235/40/18. 4 x 18 5 spoke TSW wheels, black, great looking, strong, tidy, $150 each (curently fitted with M1 tyres above), fit E36 OR E46 Will be listed on trademe over this weekend, your chance to buy now! Please call me Graeme on 021 745 107

Our rear bushes seem OK. Maybe it was pressures...what do you run yours at hot?We are thinking of going A class this season too as the DOT tyre cost in B is too high and I'd like to try something differant. Keeping the rest of the car the same except for weight loss through lighter wheels and brakes and no ballast. Will be well off the pace of the fast A's but should be able to keep El Preso Foxy under control!! Wish September would bloody hurry up!

"Slicks are also very sensitive to temprature and pressure changes. It is critical that the right start pressure are found and that you measure your pressure up throughout your laps. On the e30 I start at around 24 and build up to 30-31 PSI Anything over for me and I loose grip. ( this is weight dependant and compound dependant." Thanks for that...maybe it was a tyre presure issue. We were advised to get them up to 35-36 lbs hot so started at 30 lbs. We only had time for one run so had no chance to expeiment. I think the tryes are D11 Dunlops, same as V8's use anyway.

Thanks guys...yes it looks like it was the seals. We replaced the whole unit with a second hand one at all seems to be back to normal again...yipee! Took the car to Taupo last week for a bit of testing and to try slicks for the first time. They made us about 1.5 secs quicker so into low 44's. The tyres were 2nd hand and seemed to be a bit hard for the car...Dunlop ex NZV8 I think...they seemed to "hop" sideways across the corners when really pushed, not what I expected and not that nice. Maybe our suspension is too soft for slicks? It works fine with DOT tyres.