RustyItalian

Hey Well my search for a nice E39 530i Touring yielded me a nice E61 530i Touring... oops Hence my 528i is for sale. It is a tidy late 1999 Jap spec car with facelift headlights installed. Trademe link This is a very tidy E39 BMW 528i in Biarritz Blue Metallic that I've owned for 3-1/2 years. It is a late 1999 production model with the facelift headlights. It has the updated dual-VANOS 2.8 litre engine (very smooth) and 5 speed steptronic automatic transmission with sports/manual mode. This car runs very nicely. This car is a BMW individual model which means that the gray montana leather seats are piped in blue and the door handles are trimmed in black leather. The paintwork is in great condition, although hard to photograph, the blue really suits this model, being almost black at dusk but shines in the sun. This car was well optioned with 8 airbags, sunroof, electric memory seats, comfort seats (multi adjustable), TV, CD changer, heated seats etc. It has 17 inch BMW wheels with Bridgestone Potenza RE001 tyres. All of the pixels in the dash work 100%! The car has been regularly serviced, most recently last December when it had fluids changed and some parts replaced (brake pads, radiator hose, steering rack boots, throttle body pipework etc). It recently had a brand new genuine BMW windscreen fitted and has a brand new battery. I am selling only because I have upgraded to a 5 series wagon. For viewing the car is located in Mangere Bridge, Auckland. The car will have new WOF prior to sale. Asking $5000.

Wheels are fugly. If you download the factory options this is not a genuine Motorsport car. Maybe the bodykit and steering wheel were fitted post production? Some expensive options, but they left out the seat warmers. Unfortunate as her who must be obeyed insists so I left it off my search list.

Be a bugger if your windscreen cracked and you had to get a brand new BMW one fitted with a brand new BMW seal... ;-)

Hey Looking at buying a NZ new E60/E61 5 Series. Anyone got an options pricelist from 2005? Would be interested in what the options cost back then. Thanks

Hey It is time for an upgrade from my 11/99 E39 and I'm looking to change to a later E39. I'm after a Touring with a good option package (must have heated seats according to she who must be obeyed) and mileage under 150,000 kms ideally. I'd love to stretch to an E61 but a big price difference for the Tourings at the moment still. Let me know if there is anything out there (I'm watching trademe). Richard

I'm amazed there are no cheeky replies to that topic title!

Stay away from Phil Stokes in Onehunga, 6 weeks to paint a rear wheelarch and front bumper and they didn't match the paint right. At least the fisheyes in the paintwork distract me from the colour...

Only hitch with the 'tap into the cassette output' approach is when you have a faulty tape deck (as mine is). The tape deck stops the signal input to the amp (somehow) when the tape deck faults. The integrated entertainment system in these cars is a pain in the arse.

Mate's Golf just had a oil cooler let go and let gearbox oil into the radiator. Everything toasted, off to the wrecker. Two years ago it needed a $3500 gearbox rebuild. You cannot kill a Corolla. "With such low kms a service history isn't even MORE important" Statement corrected for accuracy. These cars have potentially never been serviced.

To me that website absolutely screams snake oil. The wording on their "technical" page is pure marketing trite. I'd avoid anything like this like the plague unless you see evidence of their claims performed on a proper metered test engine against testing standards by an independent test facility or university.

I bought OEM ones (you can buy just the rubbers) when I got my E39. Within 18 months they had shrunk so the metal strips stick out 10mm from the end. More shite quality from BMW. I'll throw them on the pile with the vanos seals, remains of the underbody plastic shields, broken sun shade sliders, the fabric that fell off the C pillars etc...

This is a very rare New Zealand new Toyota Celica GT-Four Group A homologation car. I've owned this car since 1999 and am only the second owner. This is one of five NZ New homologation cars imported by Toyota NZ in 1994 and was featured in local magazines at the time. Of the other Group A cars one was scrapped around 2009 and one has gone to Australia. The other one I know of has had a tough life. Also this was the only one with leather. As there were less than 20 NZ new ST205 GT-Fours this is a highly collectible car, especially in this condition. This car is superb with 130000km genuine mileage. It has only had two NZ owners and I've lavished attention on it for the last 13 years. I have a folder with many receipts. The dark teal metallic is not a common colour on GT-Fours but is (I believe) the best, turning darker at dusk. The car also has the optional black leather interior in good condition. I have in December installed a new clutch, cambelt and replaced all fluids. The car has not been hacked about like many, the interior remaining very tidy and stock looking. Turbo timer and boost controller are hidden installations. Here is a partial list of features: -Personal plates GT4GPA -The engine was ported, blueprinted and balanced by Lynn Rogers. -Vernier cam pulleys -Enlarged/polished block oil galleries -Block casting ground smooth on inside -TRD main engine bearings -Trust forged steel lightweight flywheel -Mandrel bent downpipe -New 3" HKS exhaust fitted recently -Greddy Profec B boost controller -Mille Miglia M11 17" x 8" alloy wheels (I imported from US, you won't see any others on the road) -235-40ZR17 Goodyears a few thousand kms old -Techtom chipped factory ECU Obviously I'm asking a high price for this car but it is definitely not your typical tired Jap import. Cars of this quality, condition and mileage don't come up for sale often. One to be cherished by a collector. Car is now prepared for sale and on Trademe. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=479158780

I have two of the special bolts that hold the pistons to the cams if anyone needs them. Unfortunately the new seal kit didn't help mine at all. It's disappointing that an otherwise good engine can be turned into a piece of crap by BMW's poor selection of o-ring material. The number of people complaining about poor running on things things.

I think you will need to define what you consider reasonable for house prices. Is this your first house or are you established sufficiently to buy higher up the price range? I lived in 10 flats round Auckland before buying. Here are a few comments (as a recent first time buyer): Meadowbank, nice area but very expensive now. Traffic to get anywhere is crap. Ellerslie. Lived around here a lot, it was built as a blue collar suburb and tends to be a bit run down and overpriced. Very busy due to pass-through traffic. Mt Wellington. sh*t hole. No pride. Don't walk the streets. Hated it. Nuff said. One Tree Hill. Quite variable, some nice stuff but some run down rubbish too. Nice access to city though. Epson, Mt Eden etc. On my salary no way unless I wanted a bed sit. I chose Mangere Bridge. A bit rough but was actually a middle class suburb when built and therefore has a lot of decent 70's two storey brick/block houses on decent (800m2) sections. Some houses have great garages or plenty of room to build one. You will be paying $250000 less in this area than the same house in Meadowbank. Prices rapidly rising which also means the quality of the locals is improving. No traffic at all (end of the road) but all that said my daughter won't go to school here...

Dimensions at the top. Don't know about E30 lights sorry.

Still for sale. The lights are glass lenses with metal reflectors and 55 watt bulbs. Being metal/glass higher wattage could be installed.

Just caught this topic and the pump on my car screams exactly like a gas turbine (which are my expertise) on cold starts. However as the pump shuts off after about 30 secs and the noise does not concern me I happily ignore it. The wicked burble that the exhaust makes when the pump is running is also appreciated, pity is isn't permanent.

Mine does the same. Given the cost I am quite happy to check the oil level the old fashioned way! As much as I like my BMW it is a pity they couldn't engineer the simple things to work right.

So the Bimmersport server told me! Maybe it is getting sick of the crappy weather too?

Have a bit of a search. It all comes down to year, stereo and TV options of your car.

Still have these. $50. PM me and I'll send a pic (not allowed photobucket here).

This unit is still for sale. A very capable ECU. Would now accept $2000 for the ECU and parts. The Toyota ignitors I'll still sell seperate.

Replacement lenses for the facelift angeleye headlights are not available seperate. You can buy them for the pre-facelift. One of my facelift headlights (date coded 2003) was so badly weathered that I had to wetsand with 1200 and polish up. Note that the lenses have a special protective coating on them that can be easily damaged. I had to sand the coating off the entire lens to get an even finish. My other headlight has been recently replaced (date code 2009) and there is no way the bare polished plastic can be restored to the shine that one has unfortunately.

If you are handy with a battery drill and know the basics of how the dash goes together I'd argue it is DIY. The cause of the fault is a flexible ribbon between the circuit board and the display. This ribbon is glued to the board (not soldered as some have you believe) and held in place with rubber blocks. The rubber blocks don't apply enough pressure, so you slip in a piece of 0.25-0.5mm plastic sheet to apply more force. This presses the contacts back together. The only hitch is you have to drill four holes in the cluster per the following guide to undo four screws. Pics of where to drill holes Drilling the holes was actually quite easy. The clear plastic is quite hard but the white plastic is soft and drills very easy. Undoing the display screws then exposes the ribbon (yellow horizontal strip in this pic: That's where I made a plastic shim around 5mm wide by 200mm and laid it on the contacts before putting the display back in place. I went from 30% working pixels to 100%. It took about 90 minutes all up.

Try Austria. Works on mine in Auckland. Depending on location and buildings reception can be crap at times.