RustyItalian

The three people that actually have 3D TV's should organise a hikoi march on parliment...

I've seen some BMW instructions showing that you need to clamp the cams when removing the Vanos unit but that thinking is flawed (on a M52TU anyway). You don't move the cams or adjust the timing in any way. The Vanos pistons being removed move forward and aft, orientation to the cam does not matter. In any case I found that the bolt in the centre of the piston popped free easy (LH thread!). Only special tool needed is a 32mm (?) spanner to fit the fan nut. Richard

Managed to get this done today on my Nov 1999 528i (dual Vanos). Very easy, I'd rate it a 3 out of 10 for complexity. Took around 5.5 hours drive in drive out, including oil change. About 90 minutes of that was cleaning 225000kms of gunk off the Vanos unit and the inside of the camshaft cover. Vanos seals were hard and obviously allowed a lot of leakage. The pistons were a sloppy fit on the bore. Camshaft cover seals were rock hard. Actually had to chip some of them out. Explains the weeping oil down the block. Difference immediately noticeable once oil pressure built up (and both solenoids plugged in ). Much smoother and decisive. I'd highly recommend doing this on any Vanos engine with over 100,000 kms on the clock. The Beisan instructions are good on the most part. If anyone intends doing this I have the two special BMW reverse thread camshaft bolts that I didn't need in the end. $5 incl postage they are yours.

Well after severing half my fingers off to get in there managed to pop it loose using a long screwdriver wedged in. So knowing that will come loose easy I'll be into it one day this week. Thanks Richard

I'll have a go, but you guys must have smaller hands than me...

Morning all Next week I plan to take a day off work to replace my VANOS seals using a Beisan systems kit. On cold start my E39 clunks and bangs like you wouldn't believe... The procedure is very straight forward, the only problem I can see is getting the damn fan off. Does anyone have the tool to hold the fan steady while you undo the threads that I could borrow? I have the actual spanner (Bluepoint BMW specific spanner was under the spare tyre when I bought the car) but I need the brace. Prefer not to have to make one. Happy to pick up/deliver in AKL (with beers or whatever...). I've tried holding the fan and smacking the spanner but too tight (and yes I do know it is a LH thread ). Cheers Richard

Any issues with replacing the seals? I have all the bits waiting on the shelf for me to get some time to install. I'm figuring around 4 hours work for a competent home DIY guy. Sound about right? Richard

I let my toddler loose in the car and she has managed to snap the rear sun shade. At the top of each arm there is a plastic part that slides along the horizontal runner to lift the arm. This is the part she has snapped, both sides Looks like I could replace them easily but they don't show on the realOEM picture. Does anyone have a dead sun shade that I could get some parts off? I'll pull the bits out and see if I can do a temporary repair.

You have to wonder how many other car dealers would get a 96% thumbs up rating? Have a look through the bad feedback, most of it is from people who didn't view the car or have it checked before buying. If you are willing to buy a car based upon three photos in trademe then you are a fool IMHO! I would happily buy a car from them, BUT I would satisfy myself that it is sound and not pay top dollar for it on the basis that you are not getting the normal LMVD support (being purchased at auction consumer guarantees act does not apply). Buyer beware (and be informed).

Now on trademe.

Now on trademe.

Autronic SM2 ECU - Brand new never used. Comes with 1.93 Chip, namely autotune, flat shift, launch control, boost control, antilag and traction control. Above the normal SM2 spec it is installed with a dual dwell board to allow the use of coils without on-board dwell (I was planning the Toyota coil-over-spark units from the Altezza). Also comes with the Autronic boost control valve allowing full boost control by the ECU. What I have done: -Aluminium bracket designed to fit the Toyota Celica stock ECU location allowing the stock harness to plug in directly. Obviously for a BMW you would need to cut these plugs off take a different approach. The ECU (with different plugs) could run any engine you care to mention really. The dwell board can run a pair of ignitors (or 4) allowing a 4 cylinder to run in wasted spark mode (no dizzy required). The dwell time is adjustable depending on what ignitor you are running. Different chips could be installed and the dwell board removed as required by someone like Edgell. I’m not continuing with this project as I’ve simply run out of time (house, wife, baby etc etc). NZ$2500 for the Autronic and all documentation. NZ$500 for four brand new P/N 90919-02227 Toyota Altezza coils (current TNZ price $165+gst each). Local companies experienced with the Autronic are Edgell's and Road, Race & Rally in Penrose. PM me for more info and photos

When I got my E39 it came with one brand spanking shiny headlight (date code 2009) and one crusty looking one (dated 2003 from memory). It appears that my 1999 E39 has had the later Hella angel eye headlight retrofitted using BMW BMW adaptor looms. Anyway the crusty looking one has been getting worse so I tried some plastic polish which had some effect. It appeared to be a coating of clear overspray on the lense, this would make sense as the car has had minor front panel damage repaired (hence the new light). I used some special plastic paint remover on it (made for model aeroplanes. This seems to be stripping something off the lens slowly. Anyone know if these lenses have a special coating on them? I think my only option now it to have it wetsanded and polished on a buffing wheel. Any recommendations for someone to do this? I may just buy an adaptor at bunnings about $100 all up though. I dread to imagine the cost of a new light... Cheers

Am I right in thinking that if you have a Jatco marked Transmission ECU then you also have a Jatco Transmission? (E39 528i Japan Spec)

I have a pair of brand new (boxed) Bosch Pilot Polar driving lights for sale. They are P/N 0306407006 and measure 145mm by 86mm. Around 60mm deep. Can't find anything about them on the net, I suspect they pre-date it. They are white plastic with a clear glass lens. The are pendant mount, perfect for hanging from a chrome bumper. Suit a nice white 635csi, Mk 1 Golf or similar for the complete retro touch? One box is a bit squished at the side but the lights are undamaged. Bulbs included as well as fittings. Can PM a picture on request. $75 + P&P

Also have a look into what commercial pilots *actually* do 99.9999% of the time. Aircraft Engineers often know of pilots as button pushers. If you ever get the chance to ride jump seat you'll see why. There is very little actual flying now, will be even less by the time you get through. Want to do an altitude change from 35000 ft to 36000 ft in a 787 to get over weather? Just type it in on the keypad and hit go. A/C communicates to traffic control to get authority and (when received) you hit a button to initiate. A/C does everything, controls plane, even lets traffic control know when you leave and have reached altitude. Great job aye? I have friends in their late 30's who have done the fly since 17 for peanuts thing. Now flying 737/A320 jets in Dubai trying desperately to pay off their massive student loans so they can actually afford to live in Auckland. They did work in Hong Kong for an airline flying about one day in seven. At least it was twin jet hours. All good till they both got laid off the same day... In aircraft engineering while you may get laid off once in a while you get above average wages (instead of sub minimum wage) and can see the world. Not hard for a dedicated engineer to earn $100k a year pretty easily. Some can succeed as pilots in NZ (especially if you have a leg-in to the old boys club) but many fail well before reaching the glamour jobs.

Be interested if it works, didn't work on my Jap 528i built 11/99 which has 4:3 TV without nav. Great spec in these cars, pity it costs hundreds on the Jap ones just to get bloody radio reception

Not when your tape deck is kaput... :-(

I tried unplugging the tape deck, only thing you achieve is killing all of the radio buttons. It all has to be plugged in to keep the system working. I need to do some more investigating to see if I can fool the deck into thinking there is a tape fitted. Haven't had a chance to though. I hope that I can trick some of the microswitches, however if it has any load sensing on the motors I'm stuffed. A working tape deck isn't something I'd want to pay much for! Richard

Have you seen any installation instructions yet for the E39? Be aware you may be stung 15% gst when landed on top of the US price. Unfortunately the E39 unit is so fugly...

Unfortunately because my deck is stuffed once it comes up tape error only disassembly fixes it.

Well my E39 has the quaint mechanism betside the telly for inserting some museum items called "cassette tapes". I found an online tutorial (at http://www.bmwtips.com/) to tap RCA plugs into the wires coming out the back allowing a 3.5mm headphone jack to be wired in for a MP3 player. All good and very easy to do. Took about 20 minutes. So now the audio signal when tape is selected comes from the MP3 player, not the tape deck. Only problem is that my tape deck is kaput. I think that somewhere the gears are damaged so it clunks like you wouldn't believe when you try to eject. The tape has to be prised out of it. If I pull the deck out, play around and reset it a tape may play when inserted and everything works fine. As soon as I switch off though the tape resets and jams. Back to square one. Is anyone aware of how I can fool the tape deck electronics to signal that the tape is in an playing fine, even if I somehow unplag the mechanisms in it? I'm guessing a schematic of the deck internal schematic will be very hard to find.

Out of interest, why? If I look at upgrading a 4:3 OEM TV with BMW stuff the cost is prohibitive. Add the cost of a 16:9 display, a TV module to suit, new radio module to allow local radio, not to mention a later model Nav unit and the cost is crazy. Add to that bluetooth modules and the $1200 odd for this unit looks like a bargain. Didn't realise it was not designed to replace standard TV directly though, that makes it harder. Looking forward to a full install guide for the E39. Most E46 ones I've seen online have been vague. Someone buy one, go on

So with this sytem do you remove the radio and the TV receiver in the boot (E39) or do they still form part of the system? If you have the shonky Jap spec radio module like I do do you need to upgrade the radio module to get decent FM reception (my reception with band expander sucks)? Seems like a far better plan that dropping $750 plus on a later model radio module. Cheers Richard

I have my baby seat in the centre rear away from side airbags. I find you can keep a reasonable eye on them. There is always the boot. BMW trimmed it nicely for a reason...