EuroSurgeon

You will need a long bar, they lock solid,

Only in new NBT systems 2013 MY

Guys, you can PM me about this if you like.

I have a E60 530i, I found car lacking torque for a while, let Ray do the vanos seals for me, I wont quote around town figures as my foot it made of lead Auckland to New Plymouth, before seals 11.7l/100k After seals 8.6l/100k On way back from palmerston was hammering all way back, wont mention speeds 9.2l/100k Before seals I have had car for 3 years, and never been below 10.6l/100k. What lead me to seals was when car was cold, felt like full power, By the time oil warmed up and thinned out torque seems minimal, I would have done myself but had better things to do so gave car to Ray and was very impressed

This car had a very major service recently at a bmw specialist, due to a few issues with smg and diff, i wonder if thats why its for sale, faults still exist?

I use teo+ on my e36's and e39 no issue, however wouldnt put them on a powerful car, my old 328 manual had no traction in wet on them, but 318 and 320 are fine

But look differently, the people who flip cars at and kill themselves ignored speed limit to start with, so why punish everyone for the idiots who already ignore it. I saw less accidents in 3yrs of fast motorways than i see in a week on ours. Laws such as keep left and no passing on left solve these issues, some driver courtesy and some common sense. Remember average speed 100mph is 160 and cops will ignore if you drive safe.

I struggled after 3 years driving uk motorways averaging 100mph, come back here to country lane speeds. Limit on highways should be 120

Bm workshop stock them 09 3761250

I have tried a few types of ceramics on my E60, I was told best was going to be Akebono, however wife didnt like not having brakes when car cold, fine after heat but useless cold. I have since gone to ATE ceramics, wheels clean at all time, good braking at all time, hotter the better. My foot it like a lead weight, I drive hard, and hard on brakes, so far 40,000km and they are only down to about 25% on front, almost like new on rear.

Ringo, thought yours was nz new? Send me your vin, I can then confirm what can be done

Usually those hcv leak out of oring between the two housings, can get from seal house, cant remember size think 21x2

Yes mostly partial alloy, but many complete alloy, we used to have alot of issues when using non genuine, especially with OAT coolant like shell coolguard, moved to genuine and issues seemed to disapear

I heard rumour it was a car dealer

Have been putting in tap water for years with genuine bmw coolant, never had one return with corrosion issues

In invercargill you could drive ti russell keller in gore, very good workshop

Looking for E39 towbar, but not the ones that bolt through wheel well.

A regulator mighy be cheap on its own, but if they where going to do full rebuild then a full alternator at $710 would be likely recommendation from most workshops, especially if its genuine alternator, much better for long lasting. Rebuilding alternators and started motors is a dying trade, not many people do this anymore

Speak to Richard at HDR Service center, he will be able to sort that out

At lower edge there are 2 plastic trim rivet clips off memory

Be careful with angle of fork, if you push it in wrong will punch through backing plate before gettina any pressure on joint

Its on tapatalk, using it to type this

Crazy idea unless you want to kill someone. E39 have alloy hubs, and i have seen many broken/cracked from this idea, use a proper splitter tool, You can do that with cast steel but not alloy

I should have one, send me a pm, will check when back on weekend

Which engine was this? If just one of four bolts holding pump, sometimes best bet is run with 3 bolts