gjm

I wouldn't get too hung up on the exhaust on a 20+ year old car - it's probably been replaced and so long as it isn't a dustbin (as so often found on Subarus and the like these days) and it works appropriately, it'll be fine. Personally, I think the grey/silver coupe is a better bet as it has the suspension you'll like. However, I appreciate the attraction of being able to buy locally. Good luck!

I've been offered a cabby, a 325i auto... But it's supposed to be black, with cloth seats (and a rear bench seat). But it's not. Full leather interior, two separate leather rear seats, and what I think is a very old (but good) respray - the paint in the well where the hood would sit is old-looking and (new) body-coloured. It's had a new cambelt, waterpump, radiator and other things done, and looks very nice. The leather on the top of the rear seat as cracked and split in places, and the outer side bolster on the drivers seat is unsurprisingly worn. I know a man who can fix this - I'll have to pay, but he does award-winning work on boats and hot rods. I think I'm having a mid-life crisis. Oh well. <shrug> Best to just go with it, I guess.

I can easily find what options were fitted to E36s and later cars - using the chassis number there are sites where this info can be found - but seem to be struggling with an E30 I have found. Is it the case that this info isn't typically available for older cars, like the E30? Or is it simply that I've found an 'awkward' car that wants to keep secrets?

Official pricing released: M3 priced at 62,000 USD, M4 at 64,200 USD. Probably put a '1' in front for NZ.

Conversions aren't uncommon. How about this one: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=681295211 No LSD, but it does have M-Sport suspension. Imho, a perfect example of a good car waiting for a running personalisation.

Mate - with the $3.5k you've saved you can get new rims and a respray! Hell, throw some more $$$ at it, fit ATBs, an exhaust and an aftermarket EMS, and it'll make more power than a 328.

If the oil leak is minor, it's nothing to worry about. If (like my landlord's 911, in my garage at the moment waiting for me to fix it) it can leave 0.5 litres on the floor overnight, it's much more of an issue. Bear in mind the car is 15+ years old - I'd not be surprised to find many cars of that age have one or two issues. If you are after something specific, stick to your guns - there will be bargains to be had, but E36 coupes with manual gearboxes, LSD and in good nick are always going to command a premium. There's lots of coupes for sale, even 328s, but most are at higher asking prices. In fairness, you really need to see it yourself. Assuming it is as Jared describes, it's likely market value is nearer $6.5k than $6k. However, what it is worth to you, only you can decide. Yes, you could end up spending $10k on the car, LSD, gearbox and engine work, but how long do you plan to keep it? If it is a few years, it could be money well spent to start with a better car than one that hasn't been as well maintained.

Of course - sorry, I'd forgotten. I knew it had been discussed before, somewhere!

I don't know about the numberplates, but the tyres look to be Bravuris, which are manufactured by Barum, a trading name of Continental... They have been making tyres since 1934 and the Bravuris is actually a pretty good tyre. (I have Bridgestones on my car, but wouldn't have problem with Barums.)

I think that one was discussed earlier? Mojo - the things you are talking about are not faults with the car and couldn't be used to knock the price down. Of course, there is the consideration that it's not the car you want, in which case there is no option but to keep looking. The green car Jared has linked to doesn't have a LSD either, but it does tick all your other boxes. Aside, perhaps, from colour? You want to do an engine rebuild? This one will work well now, and you can play later. And I think I saw some LSDs for sale on here a short while ago? Talk to one of the dealers. That's a relatively easy thing to sort. (Easier than an engine rebuild!)

Work got in the way of seeing a car for you - again. I wasn't able to leave until nearly 6, and had hoped to meet Jared there. I also had a dinner reservation with Mrs M at Med Kitchen in Maraetai for 8 o'clock. It doesn't hurt to make an offer, but don't be surprised if he says no. Do an expired listings search on TradeMe for BMW 328. Choose coupe from the filter list. I searched and found just one for less than $6k - http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/328ci/auction-685759542.htm Most are significantly more. Jared feels this is a good one, and if the headlining is fixed, then there is quite possibly nothing left to do. Sounds like a good bet to me. Maybe a little high on price, but not much. Edit: I should add, I'm referring to cars with similar mileage and provenance.

I think we'd need a new thread for 928s...

I'm not sure missing the red one is necessarily a loss... Perhaps more of a lucky escape? It'd been 'messed with', had some known problems, and as such may not have been the 'right' car.

Blue is the new red. I hope it works out. I have been procrastinating about buying another 928 ever since we got here...

You forgot Danes. I could tell stories about a couple of them... No LSD from the factory: Code Optional Equipment S240A Leather steering wheel S243A Airbag for front passenger S314A Door mirror / driver's lock, heated S423A Floor mats, velours S428A Warning triangle and first aid kit S481A Sports seat S534A Automatic air conditioning S556A Outdoor temperature indicator S676A HiFi speaker system S686A Antenna-Diversity S687A Radio preparation S694A Provisions for BMW 6 CD changer S704A M Sports suspension L807A NATIONAL VERSION JAPAN S818A Battery master switch S925A Transport protection package S928A Tire control (This was a table when I pasted it in, and turned into a long list when posted!)

I've exchanged PMs with Jared - if all goes well (and let's face, it hasn't so far) I may offer a second pair of eyes tomorrow.

You are the missing Persian Prince, and I claim my prize!

No worries. I used W&N several times while in the UK, but for 'normal' parts rather than tuning anything - they were often cheaper than local suppliers for 2002 and E31 parts. I tried this once, but it didn't work out quite so well! Still bodywork is more akin to art, and certainly not an artisit!

I've been off work with some sort of stomach bug yesterday and today... I drive up and down SH1 when I am at work so it is no problem to get to Te Awamutu (provided I get out of the office before 9.30pm ), but if Jared is able to get there before me...

SECs are much more cruisers (boulevard bruisers?) than true sports cars. Bear in mind they are based on the SE, the closest equivalent to which would be the 7-series Beemer. Not the first choice for sporty driving, perhaps. Interestingly, the SEC is longer than an 8-series, fractionally narrower, and a lot lighter.

BMW have a history of this sort of thing. Old M10 1500cc engines used to develop 1500hp (in the M12/13), and the M88 (as used in the E24) made 900hp in GpV cars. I'll have a look at the video later. I've seen Chris Barry doing similar presentations - he has been pretty good.

Looks like a Remus or similar back box. Could be anything really, with the car being ex-Japan. The ///M badge could be factory (although unlikely), but it does have sports seats and Motorsport suspension. Or did, ex-factory.

I think it looks a better prospect than the red one. More money, though.

The ZF 'boxes are reckoned to be better than the GM-sourced ones, but so long as mine keeps working I'm not about to worry about that. A bit more research is needed, but I suspect the older cars may have ZF 'boxes. I had a Mercedes that would do that until the fluid warmed up. No idea if it was supposed to, but it never caused any problems and changing the fluid and transmission filter made no difference.

Apologies - I realise this is a bit late now, but perhaps it'll be useful for someone else in the future. e28 1988-1994 518/520/525/528/535 Front suspension / wheel alignment Toe-in (+) / Toe-out (-).... +2,0mm +/- 0.6 mm Camber............................ -0°20' +/- 30' Castor.............................. +8° +/- 30' (10° lock) King pin inclination........... +11°57' +/- 30' (10° lock) Rear suspension / wheel alignment Toe-in (+) / Toe-out (-).... +2.0mm +/- 0.8mm Camber............................ <unknown to me> This is all well and good, but a total of 4mm toe at the front will wear the tyres quite quickly, especially is you ever press on. 0mm toe will likely cause wandering, but trial and error shows ~1mm toe in, front and rear, seems to work very well.