Evo30

Cheers buddy. Just what I was looking for. Yeah I didnt want to run a High pressure pump in to surge but I wasnt able to find a low pressure high volume replacement. Do you remember what part number your LP HV pump was? and cost? I will be replacing all rubber lines with teflon and adding in a couple of check valves and changing the inline filter. While I'm back there I'll probably do something about the battery mounting, it kinda sucks sitting in the corner of the boot.

Just a small update. Will post up more once I finished some laser cuts and welds. For now. Some goodies arrived.

Can you do 3" inlet to 2x2.5" outlet?

A few people msg'd and asked how to remove subframe easily. There is no easy way. I removed diff first due to the subframe was stuffed. The process is the same with a diff. The bushes did bind though once I was ready to drop subframe. If this happens to you then you need these tools and it will be done in 5 minutes. 1. 20mm lug bolt - bunnings mitre10 or bolt shop has these. They look like giant self tapping bolts. 2. Metal rod more than 10mm thick. Under 15mm thickness. Longer than 6". 3. A big freaking heavy hammer. From underneath bolt in your lug bolt. Tighten till it won't move. Go inside car slide in rod through subframe bush till it rests on bolt. Hammer time. Be sure to have your subframe supported. Or it will drop one side and it will be out of alignment making the other side harder to remove. Here's an example

Trailing arm reinforcement. A bar. There was a few choices using rectangular bars but meh this will do fine. Just making templates so I can produce multiple of these. Pretty easy stuff. You can buy similar items online if you wanted. Not sure of bar thickness, material etc also shipping cost more than the parts itself. Also gonna put a camber and toe reinforcement but I'll do that later using off cuts. I'll put another update up once I've cut them and fitted.

Made up a trailing arm bush tool. Worked a charm. M10 threaded rod 3 x m10 nuts 2 x m10 penny washers 1/2" 12mm socket 36mm deep socket Grease Lock up 2 nuts at end of threaded rod Cut off the thin side of the bush. Insert 12mm socket at the locked nut end. Insert rod through trailing arm bush. Assemble the rest with 36mm deep socket, 2 washers and a m10 nut. Make sure you have greased the rod. Tighten the nuts up. Done.

Any suggestions for lift pump? I found a few, though they were after market items not OEM, saw them on Ebay. I might mount up a couple of 255LPH pumps to feed my engine since I will be aiming for around 500+ hp at wheels.

Here are some brake shoes specs, I wasn't sure if I can actually use e36 non m3 as they are 7mm wider. Anyone tried e36 non m3 brake shoes in to an e30 disc brake? Specs are: e30 = 160mm x 25mm e36 NON m3 = 160mm x 32mm e36 M3 = 180mm x 32mm z3 = 160mm x 25mm http://www.e30zone.net/e30zonewiki/index.php/handbrake#overview reference here says to use z3 brake shoes.

Hahahha yeah the mounting tabs sheared off during on street tuning. Was dialing in around 450hp at the wheels when the subframe started to fall apart

Yeah you can borrow it on Friday. I'm not using it at the moment. Drop me a text when ever. Location is @ Northshore for pick up. Sorry working till 5pm so pick up will be after that.

Hey peeps, just a quick question here. I am planning to run a fuel surge on my street/track car. How I had it planned out in my head: 255LPH Intank fuel pump High pressure > Fuel Surge 1.5L > 255LPH external fuel pump High Pressure. I was unable to find a low pressure pump that fits in to the e30 fuel tank location, any suggestions here? Will be using factory mounting points for external fuel pump (near left hand side of subframe) Or if I go double external then I might mount the pumps in the boot with the surge tank. Any suggestions at which Fuel pump would be recommended for the set up? Just wanted to know what people are using, I think my pumps are not cutting it. Seems to be dropping pressure on high RPM's, engine runs very lean above/around 5k rpm but rich on low RPM. I looked in trademe and there are a lot of various fuel pumps, though wanted to see if anyone had any experiences or recommendations after their install. Maybe something else is causing issue? I still need to change the fuel filters etc. Cheers peeps.

Check the 4th wheel if it does not have any weights in it. High chances that the wheel has not been balanced and is the probable cause. It is a simple fix and check. My mags are not hub centric and I had this issue. Wheel balance fixed it. still not using hub centric locators. Easy way to check is when you are driving, where can you hear/feel the vibration? Then stop check the wheels, if the vibration is at the back and your 4th wheel that has no weights on it is located at the rear then that is probably the problem. Balance, fix. If vibration is coming from the front and both front wheels are balanced, then you will need to check Control arm bushes as they may be worn.

Thanks nick496,I ended up buying an E36ti. Currently waiting for laser cut bits to reinforce my new subframe. I'll post a pict shortly of my old one... No wonder my boot floor has dents. But you'll see what I mean. Subframe bushes was removed at East Cost road workshop, behind the Z, Bruno was his name... $20 both bushes. I thought it was a good deal vrs time and frustration. I couldn't get the half shafts off the nut was stuck real hard, I was going to do a whole rear rebuild but I guess that will wait. New Parts List: Condor Riser Bushes 12mm Diff stud and alloy diff spacers Superpro trailing arm bushes Z3 e-brake set up The rotors and brake pads looked fine. Just gave the rotors and callipers the wire brush treatment and some paint. I dont have a rear sway bar so I wont bother installing one yet. I got told the z3 e brake shoes and springs gives the e30 a tighter hand brake. Not sure it looks the same, might give it a try.

Might not be on later so feel free to drop a text if you still need it. 021702014

I have a guard roller you can hire, Auckland, North Shore. Not using it at the moment. Comes with all the gear except heat gun (I'm using it at the moment)

@jkhan05 - Am kinda worried about it, I have a flex pipe in there but from the flex pipe to the subframe they stuck a 3" straight pipe with resonator in the middle which means I am constantly bottoming out on speed bumps and the exhaust lifts the subframe I think that's what cause my problem to begin with. The wastegate flanges have flexed also so they seem to be leaking a little bit of exhaust fumes. fun times.

@nick496 would you be able to take photos? Might be keen. Anyone used raised bushings though? I can make my own spacers for diff to subframe but wondered how big the washers had to be, looking at forums they use 9mm diff raisers to match 12mm risers subframe bushes. Anyone able to confirm this?

Found a couple of doors? I have some in Black. Both left and right, includes glass etc. No side mirrors and trims

Thanks for the input everyone. I've called up A1 mufflers so they will be fixing up my exhaust later on in the month. I took the opportunity this weekend to jack up the car and inspect a few things also install my new Powerflex Diff bush. Jacked up the car, and holy hell... 1. Subframe diff mounting point - the 2 most rear mounting point for the subframe to diff is torn, looks like I have to weld it up. Looks like when the diff rubber was worn out the diff flexed a lot breaking off the subframe tabs. 2. Drive shaft rubbing - looks like the diff was wobbling around the subframe, I can see rub marks where the drive shaft rubbed up to the subframe, not cool.... 3. Trailing arm rubbers are all cracked. For extra added fun factor. Anyway I took out the diff and inspected the damage, when I got the diff out I checked the 2 broken tabs, 1 is completely gone the other (closest to the diff rubber) is torn but still in tact with the subframe. soooo YOLO, I changed the diff rubber this was actually quite easy. and bolted the diff up with only 3 bolts to the subframe. It seems to be ok - probably wont last long when you are cranking 400hp at the wheels. I want to fix it and reinforce my next subframe and current trailing arms (unless someone decides to sell me the lot for cheap)... This raises a couple of questions... 1. e36 TI Subframe - they seem to be the same as e30? Does that mean I can just buy the e36 subframe and put in my e30 trailing arms? I am not using the rear strut brace either. 2. Subframe reinforcement - anyone done one personally? I have seen photos they seem to be relatively easy to do, I am planning to reinforce my trailing arm also. I may as well get raised Subframe rubbers by Condor speed shop, this is to correct my camber as it is too much camber. Anyone used these before? Or would you recommend solid alloy subframe mounts?

Yeah the easiest would be to remove the whole subframe but the problem I have is that sh*t STOP aka pitstop made me a 1 piece exhaust from my turbo to the muffler, meaning I cant split it, I would have to remove the whole exhaust system to be able to remove the subframe or start remaking the exhaust. It's a bit of a PITA since I am battling pitstop about their bad work manship. I've never ever had issues with exhausts until I approached pitstop in Albany... Anyway, moving past that problem, I did see on ebay tools which work for e36 and e46 and x5 - though not sure if they fit e30 so that way I can just drop the frame down a little and just replace the bushes. Kinda running low on options

I have a cadet kart sitting at home, lost the key start but can bypass that easy. The horsepower isn't much, pretty small cause its made for kids, but it may have the parts you want?

Hi team, Just wanted to some help here, I need to fix my subframe bushing by replacing them. I am looking at getting after market subframe bushing from powerflex etc, though I wanted to know about the tools required. I've seen subframe removal tools for e36, e46 and x5 - would these fit e30's? Is there anywhere I can hire such a tool to do the job? I don't really want to remove my whole subframe hence why I was after the tool, I can set it on fire as an option but with the fuel tank close by its not something I wanted to risk. Cheers peeps.

In the need of 2 front wheel bearings for suspension rebuild. Any recommendations for shops or traders?

Here's the pictures on the car. With tires for example. Excuse the ride height car is on jacks. Front Rear Wheels alone

If you get a quote from Wheel-fix-it, I know an engineer that can fix mags. He will give you a better price if you provide a quote from another shop. Based in Auckland, North shore.