Matich

I'm just gonna send it

Recently rebuilt bottom end with new bearings/rings/honed bores etc, checked clearances and assembled with assembly lube. I've noticed that it's much harder to turn the engine over in comparison to what it was prior to the rebuild (just the block). Is this due to the new rings creating friction with the honed bores? is it normal for this friction to go away after the initial break in period?

Some cheaper end Heavy Duty BlackRidge one from supercheap, I thought the 510nm would have been more than enough but I guessed wrong!

Sounds like I need to go purchase a breaker bar, shouldn't have wasted monies on an impact ?

It does 510NM which should be enough to break it loose, I have a feeling it's seized.

Engine is fully stripped down apart from the block/rotating assembly, I purchased a 1/2" air impact for the crank bolt only to find it wouldn't loosen the bolt. From researching around it looks as if it is a normal thread and not reverse, i'm not sure if this changed from car to car, mine is a 1992 325i e36. Does anyone have any tips to remove this bolt? I've seen people remove with electric impacts so thought an air powered one would be fine. Last resort would be to buy a breaker bar.

I was thinking of it being light and zippy for more of an autocross car, something about squeezing power out of small engines is fun

Does anyone know if it's possible to swap a m40b18 into an e46 shell? I know they had m43's which are similar but the m40's lower compression can be better for forced induction.

cheers!

Require a new MAF, I've noticed both the b20 and b25 (non vanos from 1992) have the same hotwire style and use the same amount of pins. Are both parts interchangeable? Could I use a b20 MAF on my b25?

That would be really good if you could! Been trying to find one for awhile now

yup intake manifold was removed for proper inspection of hoses and to clean the ICV with carb cleaner, replaced the clamps on all hoses with new ones

Last owner told me the MAF was toast however after doing some research, many have suggested it could be an O2 sensor failure where the DME (Bosch 402) has no lambda signal causing the car to not go into closed loop properly at idle. The car is running super rich and it can be smelt, I'm guessing that the idle calms down when MAF is unplugged because no reading from the O2 is required if no reading from the MAF is present, therefore running the engine off a set of predefined values. Hope it's as simple as an O2 sensor, a new one or a performance chip is fairly cheap and can disable the sensor. Hotwire maf's however are fairly rare and expensive. Trying to narrow down the answer as I don't want to spend money on a part that wasn't causing the issue, so far fluids, filters, spark plugs, thermostat, and ICV(cleaned) have all been serviced.

Have the pistons been numbered with the crankshaft?

Bump