
Toksis
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3 NeutralAbout Toksis
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Rank
1st Gear
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Name
toksis
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Location
auckland
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Car
320i 2006 e90
Recent Profile Visitors
3018 profile views
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@M3AN I really dont get the reason why bmw use that bolt other than making me harder to remove it. even a normal 10mm could not be use because of that protruding thingy on top.
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How you open this bolt easily rear right of the engine valve cover? I did open it but so takes like 80 percent of my time opening all the bolts
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I want to replace my valve cover gasket n46 ? Where can you buy erling here in nz? Or can i use permaseal? Thanks
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Where is the low pressure AC port and High pressure AC port of E90 n46 2006? Thanks!
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Is this tyre repair good? Thanks
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Total Transmission oil is good too. I ask a mechanic to change my trans oil.. And after, transmissions shifting is so ugly and stuff. I thought mechanic broke my transmission. However, When I tried to do a Reset and Relearn from the obd software. And do a calibration where you drive your car (not even doing the relearn on the high speed.) Transmission run so smooth after 2 months. I was wondering, using a lifeguard zf is just a Hype? You can absolutely use other oil brands as long as it says it fits your car? I think the computer will adjust when you click the Relearn in the scanner and not just the reset adaptations?
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Ok i want to change my front shocks to the msport shocks. Can I just change the shocks per se? Nothing else It is compatible? E90 normal shocks to msport. Thanks!
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GA6HP19Z e90 2006 transmission problem after Reset Adaptation.
Toksis replied to Toksis's topic in Maintenance
I had fixed this. You need to 1. Reset Adaptation. 2. Teach In components. 3. Do the calibration the ones that you drive your car with the steps given from ZF. -
My n46 e90 car: When I change my ignition coil, I noticed that there is oil on the 4th cylinder. What is probably the main cause of it? Is it just replace the sparkplug pipe? or Should I replace the valve cover gasket? Before that I replaced my VVT motor. Thanks.
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Since last year , I have this experience that when I pressed my brake hard on the while waiting for the traffic light to turn green, randomly I get this shake like somebody hit you at the back. And when I accelerate, I will experience this thud and you feel like you hit something and the rpm goes very high then it will catch up after the slip. Then this month, it became occasionally and no longer intermitent. When you hold and press the brake and your Transmission is in D or DS, The car shake many times and I noticed the D or DS will blink. I tried to to do the manual steptronic. So it will go to 5th to 6th gear then suddenly it will go to DS and slip. And you are in brake in the traffic light and when you accelerate , thud and No power at all like a neutral. I was thingking the torque converter is damage. But there is no CEL. Then I checked you tube and maybe it is the IGNITION COIL has lots of signal interference that it will affect the Transmission Module to lost connection. But I bought a new set delphi 2 years ago so it must still be good so I suspect that the Neutral Idle Control is not working properly. Last nice I decided to remove the ignition coil, clean the harness, spray it with an electric cleaner and randomly place back all the ignition coil. Tested it and after 5 minutes of driving, the symptoms reoccure and got worst. So I decided why not put all my original Ignition coil back to my car. I did that and test and BOOM everything works perfectly now. (FIXED) I thought DELPHI coils are good? damage less than years? Weird. Oh, it has a 2DCA Egs no connection thingy error but it will not cause the engine light to switch on.
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Hello guys, Anyone of you here in Manukau knows how to disable the NIC (Neutral Idle Control) in the transmission? Thanks.
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So, my car has a jolt and hard shift after changing transmission oil. After a year, I check the net and youtube, they fix it when resseting the adaptation. I tried to reset the adaptation and car went smooth acceleration is ok and stuff. But after a month, car will jolt as if somebody bump to you at the back. Sometimes, when during traffic stop (Traffic light is red), it jolt like somebody bump you. If you do nothing, it gets very worst. From just during hard brake, it will not jolt from acceleration from 2nd to 3rd gear and from 3rd to 2nd gear. If you reset it again, It will come back to smooth again. Then after a month or more it will go back to it. It will happen fast if you are driving the car like 30 minutes or more. I was thinking disabling the NIC (Neutral Idle Control)? Or need to check my fluid level? I remember when changing my radiator, the mechanic also remove the small radiator which is connected to the radiator. Maybe it is no longer optimum? Thanks.