BrokeMyWallet

Hi all, I'm auctioning off the parts for my X5 that I have left over (sold the car over a year ago). Was gonna do these as "preventative" maintenance but life got in the way and never got around to it. From what I read many of these parts fit other V8 BMWs (5,6,8 series) but be sure to look up the part numbers on RealOEM. All sorts of parts like control arm bushings, ball joints, oil filters etc. I'm auctioning it off for $1, and looks like there isn't much interest in it so someone will get a bargain. I imported these parts from Pelican/FCP and they've been sitting in a box in my study since then. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/bmw/other/listing/3008539269?bof=rf65qCQ3

I need a fix applied on my car. The symptoms are identical, and my build date aligns with what the service bulletin specifies. Using ISTA/d I have confirmed I have the very same fault codes are stored in memory as well. I need someone’s help to do this: https://bmw-worldzz.blogspot.com/2016/05/instruments-door-open-messagechime.html?m=1 Additionally, does anyone know what BMW charges for a “software update” on a car? The car in question is a 2011 135i DCT (N55)

I also need to apply this fix. https://bmw-worldzz.blogspot.com/2016/05/instruments-door-open-messagechime.html?m=1 So those easier to use apps won’t do the job. Need ncs expert, winkfp, ISTA/P etc. I have ISTA/D working so far, was hoping someone could help with the setup of the apps.

Already done. What about the X5?

E53 and E82

Anyone here DIY this? Just wanting to get stuck into it. What kind of cable/software setup are you using? I want to do some simple stuff like code doors to auto-lock on drive off etc. Also want to have a go at applying a fix specific to my car that is causing it to think the doors are open even though they're not. TIA

The gearboxes go bad. Apparently the 5speed goes bad more often than the 6speed. Make sure any prospective cars you go to look at are cold when you see them and test drive. I drove several X5s that would bang and shift hard when cold but this largely goes away when the car warms up. Other than that be sure to have some $ set aside to replace the cheap shitty gaskets and plastic parts that will fail (coolant tank, radiator, power steering hoses etc). If you buy a V8 check that the valve stem seals have been done, without exception. They almost all seem to go bad (symptoms are blowing smoke after a few minutes at idle). Also pull off the vacuum hose and have a nosey inside the brake booster. The seals in the vac pump on the V8 go bad sometimes letting oil into the vac line. The check valve then also fails, allowing for engine oil to get sucked into the booster causing it to fail. It can't be repaired apparently, you have to replace. A new booster isn't cheap. Also removing/replacing booster etc is a big job and you will need to take it to the shop to get it bled - I tried for ages to bleed it at home with but was not able to get it done (even with a pressure bleeder and ISTA/D to cycle the ABS pump to open the valves "bleed procedure"). Also, check the underbody for any signs of coolant leaks near the bell housing. Take a torch and check the weep hole at the front of the engine next to the water pump. If you see coolant your transfer pipe could be failing. Couple hundred in parts, thousands in labour. Basically don't buy it and expect it to be reliable. Get mechanical warranty if so inclined.

If I could go back in time I'd just spend more on a newer model. I don't like spending heaps on an older car, no matter how much money you put into it it's still an older car with that older car feel and many plastic/rubber hard to reach bits that are just about to f**k out. Hindsight 20/20. Edit, or maybe at least a 50i X5 (The Twin Turbo V8) https://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/CategoryAttributeSearchResults.aspx?search=1&cid=268&sidebar=1&rsqid=bbf3c9aaed3a45ffb13fdb7e585f29dd&sidebarSearch_keypresses=0&sidebarSearch_suggested=0&14=BMW&15=X5&21=&1=&minPrice=&maxPrice=&13=0&13=0&24=0&24=0&309=0&309=0&54=50i&searchRegion=100 But at the end of the day its the same engine, same shitty radiator and PS system with the same issues.

4.8is? I'd say 14-16 L/100 KM. Exclusively highway driving with no start stops you can get 9L/100km. Combined 50-50 is more like 12 L/100km. But in terms of general X5 ownership, let me put it this way - if you can't afford the fuel, you definitely can't afford the surprise maintenance bills. Even if you DIY, parts are not cheap.

Interesting.. I thought some metal filings are “normal” with any trans. Especially if the pan hasn’t ever been off before.

TemiPete, what were the symptoms of your transmission issues that lead to a rebuild? Mine is a ZF6HP32. Mine is luckily fine, but I can’t spot a trans service in the service history so I’m thinking of dropping the pan and doing the trans oil and filter.

http://www.bmwlogicseven.com/?p=3738 Might find this useful. Apparently the gearbox innards are a wear item? The good news is my trans still shifts smoothly and gears don’t “stick”or anything. The rebuild kit (solenoids, gaskets) only runs ~250 USD, I am gonna add it to my project list. ?

Anyone willing to help me out? Ive got an issue that calls for coding to repair. Ive got ISTA-D but not ISTA-P, and from what I’ve read this seems to be a complex procedure plus you need all the software set up which I know is a right pain.. anyone got this all set up and wanna do me a favour? I’m on the North Shore, and the car is a 135i (2011).

I just completed my Coolant Pipe repair. It was a pain in the arse but got there in the end. Took probably 10 hours to sort it. I know it’s a 13 year old car but still, this is pretty “out there”! Check out the condition of the old seal that was leaking. The alternator bracket is leaking, I reckon the guy that sold it to me knew about it and purposely didn’t tell me about it. Private sale so caveat emptor I guess. I didn’t realise I’d be signing up for non-stop repairs like this, but this is the last broken thing as of right now.

Since you own them side by side, is there a significant performance difference between the 4.4 and 4.8?