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Gabe79

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Posts posted by Gabe79

  8. Posted · Report reply

    21 hours ago, M3AN said:

    Do they accelerate like a Tesla? If so, then I'd put my money on this being the reason.

     

    I've not driven one of these. I can say not all EVs accelerate "like a Tesla" but even on the Leaf, if you floor on an uphill, you can easily lose contact on the rear tires. This happens a lot to us coming out our road turning onto a busy road with narrow gaps. Even with very good tires, it's hard to keep traction and I could see someone losing control, or not having enough traction/grip to get out of a tight spot if inexperienced. In a straight line it is a wee tiny tiny bit like driving a Tesla, I suppose. :)

    • Like 1

  9. Posted · Edited by Gabe79 · Report reply

    5 minutes ago, Olaf said:

    I’m seeking to establish where “the premise” of replacing *everything* comes from.  It’s not been made in this thread, where are you getting your info from?

    I suggested that pretty much everything small I am touching along the way to whatever I am doing, gets replaced. Like if I am doing brakes, I replace lugs, rotor holding screw, caliper bolts (to the carrier) and guide pins. If it's adding say ~10% to my order, I usually just replace it all, as my car has turned out to have been extremely poorly maintained, and pretty much every single time I change something, I have found quirks from previous owners... I am getting a sense I am going a little bit overboard with this thinking though. :)

    EDIT: Note I wouldn't replace lugs during a second repair in the area. Only the first time I went into an area of my car would I do this generally.

    21 hours ago, M3AN said:

    Yes, #3 - basically any high tensile bolt should be replaced.

    And I disagree with the premise that all nuts, bolts, washers, spacers etc are single use, they're not. For example there's no need to replace top mount nuts unless they've failed for some reason (and that's improbable). Most of those parts are available locally anyway in the event that you find something that's damaged (which is again, highly unlikely). Spring retainers almost never need replacing.

    Each to their own but you'll pay a premium if adding unnecessary bits in bumps up your shipping costs or worse, bumps the whole lot up over NZ$400. If cost is no object then go for it (of course) but I thought cost was a consideration in this case, sorry if I misunderstood. 

     

    Thank you for the clarification on #3. I see your point about bolts/washers/etc... I should update my thinking perhaps (at least until I get burned by a previous repair again... :) )

    On 1/28/2019 at 10:01 AM, Young Thrash Driver said:

    When my front struts went I got most of the stuff in that kit. Pretty sure the spring perch/ seat would be a waste of time- mine were fine at ~220K km. The bump stops, dust sleeves and spring shims were toast, I'd probably make up a kit from OEM instead of mostly Genuine BMW but that is just my Scots heritage shining through.

    As you were, soldier- you are on the right track!

    I might well end up doing that. As is, that kit is well over $400NZD, so it'd get broken up into two orders anyway...

    On 1/28/2019 at 8:44 AM, Mr Vapour said:

    have a look at rock auto. prices are good you can probably get the important parts through them. 

    quick freight also. 

    How's your experience with Rockauto been? I have honestly never used them. They are very popular in the US, but I feel a weird loyalty to FCP Euro.

    • Like 1

  10. Posted · Report reply

    43 minutes ago, allan said:

    Check to make sure that the struts are for a e39 530 M sport and not the standard strut.

     

    They are. Thank you. :)

    42 minutes ago, Eagle said:

    NZ isn't is a place associated with under body rust caused by salted roads, even then its unlikely to suffer much as its situated very high and has a the rubber mount and spring pad covering the top and bottom. Im sure they mainly include it for the OCD types\ more sales 

    There is no bottom mount bolts on E39 unless he's meaning the single pinch bolt and nut for the bottom of the strut (3 & 4)

    I see what you mean. I will probably get them anyway though. :)

     

    Yeah 3/4 in that second diagram is what I figured too. I will order them, seems reasonable. 

  11. Posted · Report reply

    51 minutes ago, Olaf said:

    All the bolts and nuts must be replaced - they're single-use.  The strut bearing - definitely.  The bump stops, spring seats etc - yes.  You can probably skip the perch -  number 9.  And save some money on some washers.  But hey - you get it apart, and find a couple of the bits you were scrimping on are knackered, what do you do - wait another week?  Or put it back together and tear it down again?  

    Good luck with your search!

    I'm inclined to this way of thinking too. :)

    1 hour ago, M3AN said:

    Bump stops should only be a few bucks a side, I can't see them adding much to the overall cost.

    Yes to the top mounts, you'll want to replace those.

    You should be able to reuse: 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 14, 15 and maybe 12 from the Real OEM link you posted, everything else needs replacing. Just clean the parts you're going to reuse and make sure they're not damaged or deformed.

    That FCP kit seems more expensive than I'd expect and it's not essential to replace everything that's included.

    Do get new bottom mount bolts for the struts though, don't reuse your existing ones.

     

    What number are bottom mount bolts in that diagram I linked? Or number 3 in this diagram, the collar screw?

  12. Posted · Edited by Gabe79 · Report reply

    50 minutes ago, Eagle said:

    Its not so much the price of the items but the added postage costs on top on that due to weight\size. Sure the bolts and washers are probably fine to add but not essential, get them in NZ easy enough also. Things like those metal coil spring seats are generally pointless for cars in nz unless they have been damaged etc.

    If you don't care about spending a bit more then its really a non issue. I don't buy anything i don't need to myself.

    What do you mean about the coil spring seats being pointless here? I am clueless on this point. :)

     

    EDIT: I do totally buy bits and bobs I don't need. Usually any bolt I am touching gets replaced. Any washer, etc... Smaller parts too. If it adds relatively negligible costs, it's getting replaced as collateral cost/damage as it were.

    • Like 1

  13. Posted · Report reply

    16 minutes ago, Eagle said:

    Definitely get the strut mounts, whilst the rubber is usually passable the bearings are typically rough gone at those k's. New bump stops and rubber boots are probably needed in this case, maybe the lower spring pads if they are deteriorating but the rest of that kit isn't typically needed in my experience

    If I need those, they're the relatively expensive bits. The rest feel like peanuts afterwards. I might just get the whole kit anyway.

    If I could have skipped the mounts, or the bump stops, that'd been a good saving, but if I can't, I won't skimp on the little pieces.

  17. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, B.M.W Ltd said:

    That's not correct Gabe... CGA still applies under the Act. You cannot contract out of the CGA. Twp parties can still make an agreement but that all changes when the sh*t hits the fan. 

    Hi Glenn, thank you for that. I double checked it and indeed you are correct. I've missed out on some opportunities due to my misunderstanding, alas. 

  19. Posted · Report reply

    28 minutes ago, aja540i said:

    I have a couple of sets, one set that i bought for my 540i and fully rebuilt but they didn't fit, off set wasn't quite right so i suspect they may be for a 6 cylinder e39, and another set that i bought , which should be for a v8 e39 but are quite second hand and need a rebuild.

    In theory the 540i one should fit a 530i (and vice versa) can you PM/post some pictures? Does it have a part number on it?

  21. Posted · Report reply

    34 minutes ago, Allanw said:

    NZ uses "Year of First Registration" which is stupid. It's possible for it to bare no relevance to the actual age of the car. There is no consistency anyway.

    Common sense would say that using the "Model Year" as designated by the VIN descriptor would be appropriate.
     

    The problem with the VIN approach is that VIN isn't used in Japan. The vast majority of our cars coming from Japan, makes that method tricky. It can be black magic deciphering year of manufacture versus model year for a Japanese made car from numbers alone.

  25. Posted · Edited by Gabe79 · Report reply

    I've read we need DOT4 Low Viscosity, but can't find any such examples in Repco, or Supercheap. Fuchs seems to make something that fits that specification though. Penrite has a DOT 4 ESP, but I can't found that for sale in NZ.

    Castrol's website suggests I can use this: Castrol Brake Fluid DOT 4

    Or should I go buy some from the dealership? 

    EDIT: The MSDS for Castrol Response Brake Fluid Super DOT 4 says it is lower viscosity for ABS applications...

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