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Gabe79

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Posts posted by Gabe79

  1. Posted · Report reply

    Just now, Young Thrash Driver said:

    Tsk tsk Gabe. I'm sure the owners manual says to drive immediately you start the engine.?

    Hmph :)

    1 hour ago, Allanw said:

    Start it up, and drive off straight away... well after like 30 seconds - it's better for the engine anyway.

    You may find it doesn't happen as much. the 3.0 in particular, can have roughness and even stalling issues if the Vanos is bad enough - usually reported by people who leave it to idle, or pull straight into slow traffic (anecdotal, of course).

    They retard the exhaust timing heavily on cold starts to heat the cats faster, and they can struggle to control the cam timing, because of the thick oil (high pressure, but low flow to the extremities).

    Our M54B25 was never "rough" on a cold idle, but it was noticeable smoother after doing the Vanos seals.

    If it were me, I'd probably not sweat it too much, until the seals were done, ans see if it's still an issue.

    Out of interest, what grade oil are you running? 0W-something?

    Your comment will make my wife happy. She keeps whinging about exhaust fumes now. She's the owner of that Leaf on my profile and bitterly complains about internal combustion engines now. :)

    I run Penrite HPR5 5W-40. 

    I do notice the roughness goes away after awhile, so maybe nothing to it, as you say. I will get around to doing the seals in the next month or two. Will see then...

    • Like 1

  2. Posted · Report reply

    28 minutes ago, zero said:

    Do you have the ability to tell whether the ews is stuffed or not?

    I can tell if your key reads correctly, and I can tell if your EWS can be read correctly from the chip itself. I won't be able to tell if a connector is broken (like physical damage) but I'd say that's less likely. Put it this way, if you send me your EWS+keys, I can tell you if your EWS can be read, if your key can be read, and I can send you a programmed transponder (assuming I have one, I have to look...) to try it out with if the issue is your key.) If you want to bring these to me during the day in Stanmore Bay I can tell these things in 10-15 minutes for you.

    • Like 1

  3. Posted · Edited by Gabe79 · Report reply

    33 minutes ago, zero said:

    Thanks Brent.

     

    I tried that but no luck.

    I will check the connections to the ews box.

    If either box or key are stuffed is my only choice to go to bmw?

    If the ews is still good we can code you a new key (or just a transponder) easy. 

    Edit: even if your ews is dead, get a used one and we can code a new vin to it easy too. 

    Edit2: this can even be used as a diagnostic step. Coding keys is cheap, like $5 for a transponder. We can code a key and you can test it to see if your car starts. That’ll answer your question. Same for ews, but I don’t know how much a used ews would cost you. 

    • Like 2

  5. Posted · Report reply

    3 minutes ago, Allanw said:

    Are your Vanos seals done?

    Do you let it idle for a while when you start, or pretty much drive straight off (gently)?

    Vanos not done yet. I have the kit,  all parts new to replace on the way to the vanos seals too... I just need to buy the time to do it....

    I let it idle a few minutes, but the roughness doesn't go away for a good 5-10 minutes/until I get up to operating temperature. 

    I usually don't drive this car much at all, but I'm daily driving it 50ish km/day at the moment, and this code doesn't come back every morning, more on colder mornings like we've had lately. I tend to clear it each time, and watch for it in the mornings trying to gather patterns.

  7. Posted · Edited by Gabe79 · Report reply

    I've swapped coils. My plugs are new. No change so far. I plausibly have vacuum leaks, I'm planning to see a man about a smoke machine tomorrow.

    I've read this could be camshaft position sensors. Any odds on intake, or exhaust side? 

    What else should I be looking at? Google gives too many options, and I am unsure I want to replace all those parts on this car. :)

     

    EDIT: I got way ahead of myself. This code kicks in first thing in the morning on cold mornings. Clear and it goes away every time.

  8. Posted · Report reply

    12 minutes ago, M3AN said:

    I didn't realise there was a specific exemption, is there a time limit on that?

     

    https://www.transport.govt.nz/multi-modal/climatechange/electric-vehicles/

     

    Quote

     

    Extending the Road User Charges (RUC) exemption on light vehicles until they make up two percent of the light vehicles fleet

    On 22 September 2016, the RUC exemption for light electric vehicles was extended until 31 December 2021. 

    This will save the average electric vehicle driver approximately $600 per vehicle each year.

    RUC exemption for heavy electric vehicles until they make up 2 per cent of the heavy vehicle fleet

    The Energy Innovation (Electric Vehicles and Other Matters) Amendment Act includes legislation to introduce a RUC exemption for heavy electric vehicles.

    This will result in significant savings for heavy electric vehicle drivers. This will be dependent on the type of vehicle and the distance it travels in a year.

    This exemption took effect from 1 September 2017.

     

     

    • Thanks 1

  17. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, hotwire said:

    Where i used to work about 10 yrs ago, we had a fuel injector service machine & ultra sonic bath.

    At the time we charged $40 per injector which entailed:

    Running them through the machine to flush/check operation, & compare each for flow rate, spray pattern, leak down. Then strip filter baskets, pintel caps & seals & run in ultra sonic bath.

    New baskets, seals, pintel caps then rerun through the machine to recheck & compare for even pattern & flow rate.

    Very rarely did we have to bin any.

    I miss having access to that machine now.

    That's pretty much the setup InjectorTech lists here: http://www.injectortech.co.nz/injector-services.htm

  19. Posted · Report reply

    3 hours ago, Young Thrash Driver said:

    Heard much good about injectortech. They will replace all the o-rings and pintle caps and make sure the spray pattern etc is all correct. They are totally a serviceable item, no need to throw the old ones away.

    I saw some refurbished ones from FCP euro which cost a bit more than getting mine refurbished. But then I never have to buy injectors again... but then it’s a lot cheaper to get them done local after shipping. Everything else in the car seems to be original, except for the bad lowering job... choice choices. 

  23. Posted · Report reply

    14 minutes ago, Goffy said:

    Hey guys i have just been reading the helpful information. I have just purchased a 2006 540I and it has the same key fob as the one above. the down side is there is only one key fob... i also find the boot button like the issue above works about every third time. so just to clarify if i get one of these cheap fobs off ebay how do you program them or is there a geniune model i can get or are they very pricey?

    thanks for your help guys

    Goffy

    Same advice as above. I can't program those keys, maybe someone else can. You can get a locksmith to program/cut it for you for sure.

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